Christmas—the most magical time of the year! I love Christmas—the lights, music, people getting together. Timmie really loves Christmas. I’ve never seen a child love a holiday so much. Timmie loves everything about Christmas—from the real reason we celebrate to telling Santa what he wants. So when we were deciding to move to Saudi Arabia Timmie’s main concern was whether we would be able to celebrate Christmas. We did.
We had a great Christmas. More relaxed than in previous years. We had all the Christmas trimmings—decorated tree, presents, music, the Christmas story being read, Santa, and getting together with new friends.
We bought an artificial white tree that came lit. It looks so good in our living room. The white lights make the whole room glow with warmth. I put the tree up right in front of one of the windows and you can see the tree from down the street. On Christmas Eve the tree finally had all the presents—except Santa’s—under the tree. It was nice to just look at it.
The week before Christmas Santa came to the compound to visit all the children. What I love about Timmie is he always asks Santa for just one gift—just one. And he never asks for anything outrageous. Timmie was so excited to see Santa. This year Santa had an English accent. The Santa house was decorated and you really thought you might be at the North Pole—trees, “snow”, presents for all the children, hay for the reindeers. He asked Timmie what he wanted. Timmie asked for a PSP and that was it. On Christmas morning there was a PSP under the tree for Timmie—Santa came through (though one helper may have grumbled a little).
Christmas morning we invited some people over for breakfast—beef bacon, scrambled eggs, homemade waffles (with strawberries, Nutella and whip cream) and apple juice. As we cooked and talked the Christmas spirit was in the air. After breakfast we went to Clock Tower.
We hear people talk about CT—but always tell them we’ve never been. I thought it was a mall—but it’s really old Riyadh! Rashed took me to CT months ago and I loved it. Now Laurie has been and she loves it. The best thing is now we know how to get there. All the alleyways with the carpets, furniture, and jewelry. The men hawking their wares. The hustle and bustle. The bargaining for a “good deal—only for you.” It’s awesome. This is the real Middle East. We were the only Westerners there. We were there early so not many Saudi’s either. I found the carpet place that I bought my first carpet at. I haggled over some jewelry for Laurie—but told them I was only looking (wedding anniv in March--10 years). Laurie bought some cool “Saudi” things that every expat house has. The other women seemed so excited to show Laurie all their favorite stores—it was just incredible.
Christmas evening we went to the Diplomatic Quarter—the DQ—for a party with another couple we know. It’s always an adventure finding the DQ—we’ve been twice but neither time the same way. The couple work for the State Department—their next assignment is Cuba. We had a fun time playing games, chatting and snacking. It was a good way to wind down Christmas Day.
Friday evening we went to another compound—Arizona (now we have compound envy—our villa is much bigger but the Arizona compound is really really nice). Again we ate, talked, drank hot chocolate (from Switzerland—they had just come back from vacationing in Switzerland) and had a good time. Each family got a Swiss chocolate bar.
All in all this was a great Christmas. So yes, we celebrated Christmas in Saudi. The malls weren’t filled with Christmas music, there wasn’t a Santa in every mall, and there weren’t Christmas lights on all the palm trees. BUT on the compound and in our villa and the other villas we visited the Christmas Spirit was alive and well.
I hope each of you had a Merry Christmas and I hope that each are blessed with a Happy and Prosperous New Year!
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Paris in December!
I don't what Paris is like in Spring but in December it's magical. Christmas is the air. Lights are everywhere. And the people in Paris--beautiful--men and women (I felt so out of place). It was amazing to be in Paris for a week.
The Hotel la Bourdannis--was awesome. So charming, quaint, nice and comfortable. Breakfast is from 7 - 11--allowing us to sleep in, get up, get ready and take our time. The croissants--chocolate, apple, and regular--were all so good. The hot chocolate was delish. There were cereals, juice, other bread, jams, butter and cheese. We could not get enough of the chocolate croissants.
The bathroom was so big--double sinks! Hot water all the time. Clean, fresh towels--mmmmm.
The beds were comfortable--maybe that's why we slept in every morning. We never felt rushed to do something.
The hotel is in a neighborhood with a grocery store next to it, flower shops everywhere, and delish--yes delish--bakeries and restaurants around both corners.
You cannot go wrong staying at the Bourdannais.
Museums--loved them (even though I felt art overload after visiting the Louvre). So much art--and lots of it naked (hahaha--that was funny watching Timmie hide his eyes or better when he made comments about what he was looking at). We went to three museums and loved them--Louvre, D'oorsay and the Branly (Timmie really enjoyed the Branly the best--I liked the D'oorsay the best and Laurie liked the Louvre). There is so much art to see I think you could live forever in Paris and still not see it all.
The Metro--loved it! I'm a people watcher and the Metro is the place for that. We saw so many people--happy, tired, old, young, black, white, Arab and mixtures. It's incredible. I think a good writer could sit in the Metro for a week and have a novel.
One day we were sitting and waiting and a young black boy sat beside Timmie--the boy seemed so happy--dressed so nice. His Mother looked so tired and I wondered what she did for a living. She wasn't dressed as nice as her son--yet I'm sure she did everything to make sure he was getting the best education.
One day we were walking and there was an older woman being held up but two sympathetic policemen--she was sobbing and they seemed to be trying to help her through whatever she had just found out. I wanted to follow them and find out why she was sobbing--it was heart wrenching.
Distinguished older men and women dressed nicely reading papers, doing crosswords--just so elegant and chic.
Handsome young men that seemed no matter what they wore they would be look fashionable, cool and "Paris." Tall, slender and there was something about them.
Gorgeous tall young women seemed to be everywhere in the Metro. Kissing their boyfriends, talking on their mobiles, smiling, not smiling, wearing the latest fashion. Always looking so sexy, cool, warm, kind and aloof--all at the same time.
The food--loved it. Ok now I know most of you might be disappointed--we didn't eat any French food--I know I know. The first night we went to this Chinese restaurant and had sweet and sour pork--it was sooooo soooo good. Timmie even tried something new and liked it--didn't eat it all but made the attempt.
The next night we met up with Mark and Traci and Timmie wanted to eat at this cute pizza place. Wow! The pizza was so good and so were the pasta dishes. The restaurant was just so European--it was awesome.
We liked both restaurants so much that we ate 3 times each at them both. One night I did have the roasted duck--heaven. Laurie said she needed to get her pork consumption in since we can't get pork here in the Kingdom.
Each day for lunch--McDonald's. I know I know! But eating there with all those beautiful and handsome Parisians--priceless.
The desserts--there's a reason dessert has two S's--you want more--and we did. The chocolate melts in your mouth. The desserts are works of art that you feel guilty about eating--and then you feel guilty because you want more. The desserts the French create with chocolate--amazing. We ate as much as we could--sometimes more than we should have. I have never seen so much chocolate—and so many chocolate stores—ever.
The city--amazing! Every section of the city is different--from posh to gritty (we never went really gritty--Timmie might have found that as exciting as the art--haha--but we were in one area and there was a Sex shop--Timmie pointed it out to me).
The city is alive and on the go constantly. I don't think it ever shuts down. It has such an energy about it--makes you want to stay awake and go go go.
We stayed in a nice part of town--not super posh but definitely not gritty. We loved our neighborhood with all the restaurants, antique stores, flower shops--there was even a school on our block.
The buildings are incredible. Everywhere all these old beautiful buildings. The carvings, details, etc..are ..are...are...indescribable. I could have walked around Paris all week just looking at buildings, wandering down the little avenues, etc..
The weather--cold! But I loved that. The desert Kingdom is still warm--today it's in the low 70's. It felt good to wear a sweater, coat, scarf and gloves--all bundled up and warm. It felt good to come out of a museum and have all the cold hit you at once or to open up the French doors in our hotel room and walk out on our balcony late at night--freezing and watching the cars, the Eiffel Tower or see what was happening in the apartments across from us.
The people--loved them. They were all so beautiful. They all have this way about them--a confidence, swagger and yet not overly so. They wore their clothes with no thought of fashion--because they are fashion. I loved seeing the women wear their long fur coats with no cares. The men with the way they wore their scarves (we found out the Paris way on our next to last day).
They smoke, talk, laugh, walk--all at the same time. They seem passionate about life. You feel that passion and get caught up in it. I wanted so much to be able to understand what they were saying. I loved being around the people.
I don't know what else to day. I loved it. I want to go back again and again and again. I told Laurie that I want us to buy a house and live in Paris. Laurie sweetly smiled back and said "Tim, we don't have enough time to buy houses in all the places you want to live." And then she chuckled. I know--I'm a nomad--but Paris--wow!
On the way to the airport we met this wonderful Southern lady from Mississippi. She was such a Sothern lady. Her daughter had married a man from Paris. Grandma was visiting her grandchildren. She told us that she really loves Paris and loves visiting her grandbabies. I loved talking to this woman. I loved meeting other Americans that are visiting foreign countries. It sounds corny but we’re all ambassadors or our country—for good or bad (hopefully for good).
One night at the pizza place there was a young American couple--chatting and discussing what they were going to order. As we were leaving I asked if they were American--they smiled--Yes. I told them we were too and we were having a great time. They were in Paris for their honeymoon. Ahhh--love. They looked so happy--so in love. I hope they always remember Paris.
Paris was a great vacation. We loved it. It's sad that it's over already--and yet it was time for it to end. We were all happy to be home in our desert Kingdom. But Paris in December--awesome!
The Hotel la Bourdannis--was awesome. So charming, quaint, nice and comfortable. Breakfast is from 7 - 11--allowing us to sleep in, get up, get ready and take our time. The croissants--chocolate, apple, and regular--were all so good. The hot chocolate was delish. There were cereals, juice, other bread, jams, butter and cheese. We could not get enough of the chocolate croissants.
The bathroom was so big--double sinks! Hot water all the time. Clean, fresh towels--mmmmm.
The beds were comfortable--maybe that's why we slept in every morning. We never felt rushed to do something.
The hotel is in a neighborhood with a grocery store next to it, flower shops everywhere, and delish--yes delish--bakeries and restaurants around both corners.
You cannot go wrong staying at the Bourdannais.
Museums--loved them (even though I felt art overload after visiting the Louvre). So much art--and lots of it naked (hahaha--that was funny watching Timmie hide his eyes or better when he made comments about what he was looking at). We went to three museums and loved them--Louvre, D'oorsay and the Branly (Timmie really enjoyed the Branly the best--I liked the D'oorsay the best and Laurie liked the Louvre). There is so much art to see I think you could live forever in Paris and still not see it all.
The Metro--loved it! I'm a people watcher and the Metro is the place for that. We saw so many people--happy, tired, old, young, black, white, Arab and mixtures. It's incredible. I think a good writer could sit in the Metro for a week and have a novel.
One day we were sitting and waiting and a young black boy sat beside Timmie--the boy seemed so happy--dressed so nice. His Mother looked so tired and I wondered what she did for a living. She wasn't dressed as nice as her son--yet I'm sure she did everything to make sure he was getting the best education.
One day we were walking and there was an older woman being held up but two sympathetic policemen--she was sobbing and they seemed to be trying to help her through whatever she had just found out. I wanted to follow them and find out why she was sobbing--it was heart wrenching.
Distinguished older men and women dressed nicely reading papers, doing crosswords--just so elegant and chic.
Handsome young men that seemed no matter what they wore they would be look fashionable, cool and "Paris." Tall, slender and there was something about them.
Gorgeous tall young women seemed to be everywhere in the Metro. Kissing their boyfriends, talking on their mobiles, smiling, not smiling, wearing the latest fashion. Always looking so sexy, cool, warm, kind and aloof--all at the same time.
The food--loved it. Ok now I know most of you might be disappointed--we didn't eat any French food--I know I know. The first night we went to this Chinese restaurant and had sweet and sour pork--it was sooooo soooo good. Timmie even tried something new and liked it--didn't eat it all but made the attempt.
The next night we met up with Mark and Traci and Timmie wanted to eat at this cute pizza place. Wow! The pizza was so good and so were the pasta dishes. The restaurant was just so European--it was awesome.
We liked both restaurants so much that we ate 3 times each at them both. One night I did have the roasted duck--heaven. Laurie said she needed to get her pork consumption in since we can't get pork here in the Kingdom.
Each day for lunch--McDonald's. I know I know! But eating there with all those beautiful and handsome Parisians--priceless.
The desserts--there's a reason dessert has two S's--you want more--and we did. The chocolate melts in your mouth. The desserts are works of art that you feel guilty about eating--and then you feel guilty because you want more. The desserts the French create with chocolate--amazing. We ate as much as we could--sometimes more than we should have. I have never seen so much chocolate—and so many chocolate stores—ever.
The city--amazing! Every section of the city is different--from posh to gritty (we never went really gritty--Timmie might have found that as exciting as the art--haha--but we were in one area and there was a Sex shop--Timmie pointed it out to me).
The city is alive and on the go constantly. I don't think it ever shuts down. It has such an energy about it--makes you want to stay awake and go go go.
We stayed in a nice part of town--not super posh but definitely not gritty. We loved our neighborhood with all the restaurants, antique stores, flower shops--there was even a school on our block.
The buildings are incredible. Everywhere all these old beautiful buildings. The carvings, details, etc..are ..are...are...indescribable. I could have walked around Paris all week just looking at buildings, wandering down the little avenues, etc..
The weather--cold! But I loved that. The desert Kingdom is still warm--today it's in the low 70's. It felt good to wear a sweater, coat, scarf and gloves--all bundled up and warm. It felt good to come out of a museum and have all the cold hit you at once or to open up the French doors in our hotel room and walk out on our balcony late at night--freezing and watching the cars, the Eiffel Tower or see what was happening in the apartments across from us.
The people--loved them. They were all so beautiful. They all have this way about them--a confidence, swagger and yet not overly so. They wore their clothes with no thought of fashion--because they are fashion. I loved seeing the women wear their long fur coats with no cares. The men with the way they wore their scarves (we found out the Paris way on our next to last day).
They smoke, talk, laugh, walk--all at the same time. They seem passionate about life. You feel that passion and get caught up in it. I wanted so much to be able to understand what they were saying. I loved being around the people.
I don't know what else to day. I loved it. I want to go back again and again and again. I told Laurie that I want us to buy a house and live in Paris. Laurie sweetly smiled back and said "Tim, we don't have enough time to buy houses in all the places you want to live." And then she chuckled. I know--I'm a nomad--but Paris--wow!
On the way to the airport we met this wonderful Southern lady from Mississippi. She was such a Sothern lady. Her daughter had married a man from Paris. Grandma was visiting her grandchildren. She told us that she really loves Paris and loves visiting her grandbabies. I loved talking to this woman. I loved meeting other Americans that are visiting foreign countries. It sounds corny but we’re all ambassadors or our country—for good or bad (hopefully for good).
One night at the pizza place there was a young American couple--chatting and discussing what they were going to order. As we were leaving I asked if they were American--they smiled--Yes. I told them we were too and we were having a great time. They were in Paris for their honeymoon. Ahhh--love. They looked so happy--so in love. I hope they always remember Paris.
Paris was a great vacation. We loved it. It's sad that it's over already--and yet it was time for it to end. We were all happy to be home in our desert Kingdom. But Paris in December--awesome!
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Thanksgiving
Is it really going to be Thanksgiving in two days? I’m not ready for it. Laurie has invited an eclectic group of people—I’m curious to see how it will all turn out. It has been an adventure trying to provide a “traditional” Thanksgiving dinner. But, do you always have to follow “tradition?”
I found frozen deep dish frozen pie shells! I love using the Marie Calendar ones—but I haven’t found those here. The ones I found look as nice and they were deep dish—I had to have deep dish. Timmie loves pumpkin pie—not just at Thanksgiving but any time of the year. So it’s 1045 at night and I’m baking two pumpkin pies for Thanksgiving—one with chocolate chips on the bottom (try it—the pumpkin with chocolate—delish!).
We have a Butterball turkey thawing in the fridge. We found it at Tamimi’s--$5 a pound. Laurie’s afraid that it’s not big enough—so I need to go buy a roast (it’ll probably be lamb).
Lucky for us we also found some stuffing mix. The store also had chicken broth so now I can make the famous stuffing—I’m not sure that it’s really famous—saying that it’s famous makes me good.
At Tamimi’s we found the softest rolls—they are so good. I’m buying fresh green beans tomorrow and some fizzy grape juice. I’m also getting potatoes—the ones from Lebanon—and making mashed potatoes. I’m hoping that Tamimi’s will have a pecan pie—if not I’ll live—but I do like some pecan pie on Thanksgiving.
We can’t find all the ingredients at one store—we have to go to at least two and sometimes three—I’m not sure why. Oh well, going from store to store is adventure—the traffic, prayer time, etc.. It’ll all be worth it though.
Thanksgiving Day is going to be stressful. Timmie has his final basketball game, then we have to rush home to put the turkey in, I really really need a haircut and Mr. Ali is only on the compound Thursday and Friday (I cannot go to Paris with this hair—I need to be groomed). Then the dinner and then bed.
The next day—Friday—is Family Fun day at school—but for Laurie it isn’t going to be much fun—she has to count the money and help make sure things are running smoothly. I'm not sure what I'm doing that day--taking Timmie around and having "fun."
Did I mention that I have to teach Seminary tomorrow—Wed—from 6 – 730 pm and then I’m going out to eat Indian food with my friend Dave (he’s going back to New Zealand—his salary is taxed at 39%--so it isn’t worth it for him to stay here unless…..but that’s a whole different story--he leaves soon). I’ve invited our General and other officers to come and eat with us—we won’t eat until around 830 or 9ish. But the holidays always seem to come with their own adventures--stress--whatever you call it.
I wish all of you—everybody reading this—a Happy Thanksgiving—whether you celebrate the holiday or not. I’m sure all of us can find something that we’re thankful for. I’m thankful for a great family—Laurie and Timmie, for a great job, for being in a place where we constantly have adventures and for all I’ve been blessed with.
Eat some turkey, have some pie, pass the rolls—Happy Thanksgiving!
I found frozen deep dish frozen pie shells! I love using the Marie Calendar ones—but I haven’t found those here. The ones I found look as nice and they were deep dish—I had to have deep dish. Timmie loves pumpkin pie—not just at Thanksgiving but any time of the year. So it’s 1045 at night and I’m baking two pumpkin pies for Thanksgiving—one with chocolate chips on the bottom (try it—the pumpkin with chocolate—delish!).
We have a Butterball turkey thawing in the fridge. We found it at Tamimi’s--$5 a pound. Laurie’s afraid that it’s not big enough—so I need to go buy a roast (it’ll probably be lamb).
Lucky for us we also found some stuffing mix. The store also had chicken broth so now I can make the famous stuffing—I’m not sure that it’s really famous—saying that it’s famous makes me good.
At Tamimi’s we found the softest rolls—they are so good. I’m buying fresh green beans tomorrow and some fizzy grape juice. I’m also getting potatoes—the ones from Lebanon—and making mashed potatoes. I’m hoping that Tamimi’s will have a pecan pie—if not I’ll live—but I do like some pecan pie on Thanksgiving.
We can’t find all the ingredients at one store—we have to go to at least two and sometimes three—I’m not sure why. Oh well, going from store to store is adventure—the traffic, prayer time, etc.. It’ll all be worth it though.
Thanksgiving Day is going to be stressful. Timmie has his final basketball game, then we have to rush home to put the turkey in, I really really need a haircut and Mr. Ali is only on the compound Thursday and Friday (I cannot go to Paris with this hair—I need to be groomed). Then the dinner and then bed.
The next day—Friday—is Family Fun day at school—but for Laurie it isn’t going to be much fun—she has to count the money and help make sure things are running smoothly. I'm not sure what I'm doing that day--taking Timmie around and having "fun."
Did I mention that I have to teach Seminary tomorrow—Wed—from 6 – 730 pm and then I’m going out to eat Indian food with my friend Dave (he’s going back to New Zealand—his salary is taxed at 39%--so it isn’t worth it for him to stay here unless…..but that’s a whole different story--he leaves soon). I’ve invited our General and other officers to come and eat with us—we won’t eat until around 830 or 9ish. But the holidays always seem to come with their own adventures--stress--whatever you call it.
I wish all of you—everybody reading this—a Happy Thanksgiving—whether you celebrate the holiday or not. I’m sure all of us can find something that we’re thankful for. I’m thankful for a great family—Laurie and Timmie, for a great job, for being in a place where we constantly have adventures and for all I’ve been blessed with.
Eat some turkey, have some pie, pass the rolls—Happy Thanksgiving!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Typical Thurday--our Saturday
Today our day started at 0845—well really it started at 0630 when I turned on CNN and then watched Charles Gibson at 0700 and Katie Couric at 0730 (gotta hear the news). Right now it’s 1640 (440pm) and we just got home and Laurie and I might go back out again. So here’s what we did:
Left the house at 0845--
0915 arrived at Samba (a bank here)--they have a Ladies Branch were Laurie can cash her check—they didn’t open until 0930—we couldn’t wait since we had dental appts at 1030 (and I knew it would take at least 50 minutes to get there)
1000--arrived Dentist--got there sooner that I thought—Timmie had two teeth pulled, Laurie and I got our teeth cleaned (so laid back—he and his assistant were sitting on the back porch chatting and waiting for us—the best appt I’ve ever had)
1130--Basketball practice / game—this was the funniest game to watch
1310--We were back at Samba Ladies Branch thinking the branch was open until 1630—I had read the sign wrong—it closed at 1300
1312--Laurie suggested we go to Kingdom Mall—the third floor is an all women’s floor and there is a Samba branch there—maybe it would be open longer
1400--Arrived Kingdom Mall—Laurie went to the 3rd floor—the branch was closed—but she looked around a little—then came down the Debenhams to look for a sweater and coat—found a sweater and shirt but no coat (she may have to get a man coat—plenty of those and she used to wear mine)
Ate at the Mall—Laurie had Japanese and I had McDonalds (Timmie ate my fries)
1515--Went to Tamimi grocery store—it caters to the Western palate and richer Saudi’s expensive—bought a turkey ($5.00 a pound—paid $27 for a turkey--Butterball)—bought some delish chocolate croissants and other things—awesome ribeye steaks
1640—Back home
During all this we're in the same city--we never left Riyadh and we only go to part of Riyadh--traffic, lights, cars, parking, prayer--it all takes time. This is typical on the weekends—and not just us but everybody—especially if you have to grocery shop, return things (there are no dressing rooms—well we did find then in Debenhams at Kingdom Mall—but that’s the only place), etc.. AND we might go out after the 630 prayer—I love it here!
630pm--left the house again--decided to go to Riyadh Gallery
650--still in traffic--decided not to go to RG but instead to Hyatt, Jirar and Danube (they're all in the same place--mall, bookstore, grocery store)
Walked all over finding what we wanted
815--left the mall--got stuck in parking lot traffic
840--finally got out of parking lot traffic
930--arrived home
(Yawn--I'm tired)
Left the house at 0845--
0915 arrived at Samba (a bank here)--they have a Ladies Branch were Laurie can cash her check—they didn’t open until 0930—we couldn’t wait since we had dental appts at 1030 (and I knew it would take at least 50 minutes to get there)
1000--arrived Dentist--got there sooner that I thought—Timmie had two teeth pulled, Laurie and I got our teeth cleaned (so laid back—he and his assistant were sitting on the back porch chatting and waiting for us—the best appt I’ve ever had)
1130--Basketball practice / game—this was the funniest game to watch
1310--We were back at Samba Ladies Branch thinking the branch was open until 1630—I had read the sign wrong—it closed at 1300
1312--Laurie suggested we go to Kingdom Mall—the third floor is an all women’s floor and there is a Samba branch there—maybe it would be open longer
1400--Arrived Kingdom Mall—Laurie went to the 3rd floor—the branch was closed—but she looked around a little—then came down the Debenhams to look for a sweater and coat—found a sweater and shirt but no coat (she may have to get a man coat—plenty of those and she used to wear mine)
Ate at the Mall—Laurie had Japanese and I had McDonalds (Timmie ate my fries)
1515--Went to Tamimi grocery store—it caters to the Western palate and richer Saudi’s expensive—bought a turkey ($5.00 a pound—paid $27 for a turkey--Butterball)—bought some delish chocolate croissants and other things—awesome ribeye steaks
1640—Back home
During all this we're in the same city--we never left Riyadh and we only go to part of Riyadh--traffic, lights, cars, parking, prayer--it all takes time. This is typical on the weekends—and not just us but everybody—especially if you have to grocery shop, return things (there are no dressing rooms—well we did find then in Debenhams at Kingdom Mall—but that’s the only place), etc.. AND we might go out after the 630 prayer—I love it here!
630pm--left the house again--decided to go to Riyadh Gallery
650--still in traffic--decided not to go to RG but instead to Hyatt, Jirar and Danube (they're all in the same place--mall, bookstore, grocery store)
Walked all over finding what we wanted
815--left the mall--got stuck in parking lot traffic
840--finally got out of parking lot traffic
930--arrived home
(Yawn--I'm tired)
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
The Coins
In the US military there is a tradition of coins. The coins can tell a person what unit you are from, what job you do or organizations that you belong to. Being “coined” is a big deal in the USAF—it means that someone very senior thinks your work is outstanding—normally a General or a Chief Master Sergeant.
When I arrived at the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF) Headquarters and met General Faisal for the first time I gave him a coin. The coin I gave was the 315th Intelligence Officer coin. The General liked it and placed it on a table with other military mementos that he displays. General Faisal then asked me to help design a coin for his directorate. I smiled and said “Sure”—not realizing how long the process would be. I started this in June and finally completed the process in mid-Oct.
I contacted military coin companies in the US. One responded and told me that they had customers all over the world so shipping to Saudi was no big deal. Great. I even got a quote for 1,000 coins.
I took the quote to the General. Yes yes this is good. Ok now design a coin. I thought that should be easy.
I went through four designs before one was finally settled on. The winning design was the RSAF symbol on one side and the intelligence symbol on the other side. Then we had to decide the outer color. I chose green to go with the Saudi flag. That color was changed to blue, then white (Tim why is there so much white? Because you thought it would look god. No Tim this is terrible—please chose another color.) then back to blue. THEN the General decides that he wants to present a special coin to the people at the upcoming intel / security conference being held in Nov. No problem—but there were.
I could not find a decent conference logo from the year before. The guys searched their sites and folders—nothing good. I got some logos but when the company tried blowing then up—yuck. Finally, after three months a folder with the logo was found. I brought the folder home and had Laurie scan it—beautiful—finally the company had something they could use.
Now the coins have been ordered. The company sends me the proofs via e-mail. I send them to the General—it’s Oct. He likes them and tells me to order the amounts we want and tells me use the credit card he gave me. I order the amounts. I give the credit card number—it comes back with an error—the mailing address and billing address don’t match. I call the General and tell him not to worry I’ll use my credit card—after all what’s $4,020 to a rich American like me (HA!). He says Yes yes please Tim do this.
Just to make sure that my credit card will go through I call my credit card company and let them know. Then I call the coin company—all goes well.
Now the fun begins. The coins have been shipped. I have the tracking number. I e-mail the General. He calls me—he never e-mails he always calls. Good good—please track the coins Tim and let me when they arrive in Saudi.
The coins leave Alabama, now Ohio, New York, then to Germany then Bahrain. Bahrain—that’s only 45 minutes from where the General is at the conference. I call Bahrain and ask if we can pick them up—no. The nice lady assures me that the coins will be on the next flight to Riyadh--inshallah—and they are.
Yah! The coins are in Riyadh at the airport. They went through customs. They are scheduled for delivery. I get to work to see if they have been delivered—the delivery is on hold. On hold? Coins? I call.
I get a nice man but he doesn’t speak enough English to tell me the problem or give a solution. I get another man—he speaks great English but sounds doubtful that the coins will be released any time soon. I give the phone to one of the Colonels I work with. They speak in Arabic. The problem is that I’m civilian and the box says “military” which means I can’t have them. The solution is that I need a letter written on military letterhead and I have to accompained by a Saudi military man--then the coins will be released.
I call the General to let him know. Tim go talk to Col Fahid and let him know. Yes sir.
I go talk to Col Fahid—who gets a call from the General—yes yes, DHL, yes, Tim—ok.
An hour later a letter is typed, signed and stamped. An admin guy from the office is my driver—he speaks no English and I speak no Arabic—but the ride is nice.
We get to the airport and find DHL. The Saudi military guy signs papers, I show my ID, the coins—in two big boxes—are brought out—and on top is a big red sticker CUSTOMS DUE. Sigh—I pay 550 riyals ($147). They load the boxes in our official government vehicle and off we go back to RSAF HQ.
On the way to the HQ we get a phone call—go to the airbase—a plane is waiting to fly the coins to Dhahran.
We get on the airbase and find the plane—drive right up to it. The pilots shake our hands. The plane is what I call a General’s jet—a small private type plane—not a fighter jet. We give them the conference coins. I call the General. I tell him that I can’t hear him because the engines are running.
I get a call—while driving home—from the General. I expected a They’re nice or They’re ok. Instead I got Tim these are very very nice. Everybody likes them.
Saturday the General comes to work and calls me into his office. He asks me the amount—joking with me that I keep raising it—writes me a check—in Arabic. I take the check to the bank downstairs—I sign it and put my mobile number on it—I get lots of riyals—I’ve been paid in full.
That same day Col Fahid came into our office and gave us each two coins—one intel and one conference. They are nice. The intel one is probably the nicest that I’ve seen. It has so much detail to it—and the crowns on top look brilliant.
This coin story is finished. This was an adventure I wasn’t expecting. But now the RSAF has their very fist coin—maybe it’ll become a tradition.
When I arrived at the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF) Headquarters and met General Faisal for the first time I gave him a coin. The coin I gave was the 315th Intelligence Officer coin. The General liked it and placed it on a table with other military mementos that he displays. General Faisal then asked me to help design a coin for his directorate. I smiled and said “Sure”—not realizing how long the process would be. I started this in June and finally completed the process in mid-Oct.
I contacted military coin companies in the US. One responded and told me that they had customers all over the world so shipping to Saudi was no big deal. Great. I even got a quote for 1,000 coins.
I took the quote to the General. Yes yes this is good. Ok now design a coin. I thought that should be easy.
I went through four designs before one was finally settled on. The winning design was the RSAF symbol on one side and the intelligence symbol on the other side. Then we had to decide the outer color. I chose green to go with the Saudi flag. That color was changed to blue, then white (Tim why is there so much white? Because you thought it would look god. No Tim this is terrible—please chose another color.) then back to blue. THEN the General decides that he wants to present a special coin to the people at the upcoming intel / security conference being held in Nov. No problem—but there were.
I could not find a decent conference logo from the year before. The guys searched their sites and folders—nothing good. I got some logos but when the company tried blowing then up—yuck. Finally, after three months a folder with the logo was found. I brought the folder home and had Laurie scan it—beautiful—finally the company had something they could use.
Now the coins have been ordered. The company sends me the proofs via e-mail. I send them to the General—it’s Oct. He likes them and tells me to order the amounts we want and tells me use the credit card he gave me. I order the amounts. I give the credit card number—it comes back with an error—the mailing address and billing address don’t match. I call the General and tell him not to worry I’ll use my credit card—after all what’s $4,020 to a rich American like me (HA!). He says Yes yes please Tim do this.
Just to make sure that my credit card will go through I call my credit card company and let them know. Then I call the coin company—all goes well.
Now the fun begins. The coins have been shipped. I have the tracking number. I e-mail the General. He calls me—he never e-mails he always calls. Good good—please track the coins Tim and let me when they arrive in Saudi.
The coins leave Alabama, now Ohio, New York, then to Germany then Bahrain. Bahrain—that’s only 45 minutes from where the General is at the conference. I call Bahrain and ask if we can pick them up—no. The nice lady assures me that the coins will be on the next flight to Riyadh--inshallah—and they are.
Yah! The coins are in Riyadh at the airport. They went through customs. They are scheduled for delivery. I get to work to see if they have been delivered—the delivery is on hold. On hold? Coins? I call.
I get a nice man but he doesn’t speak enough English to tell me the problem or give a solution. I get another man—he speaks great English but sounds doubtful that the coins will be released any time soon. I give the phone to one of the Colonels I work with. They speak in Arabic. The problem is that I’m civilian and the box says “military” which means I can’t have them. The solution is that I need a letter written on military letterhead and I have to accompained by a Saudi military man--then the coins will be released.
I call the General to let him know. Tim go talk to Col Fahid and let him know. Yes sir.
I go talk to Col Fahid—who gets a call from the General—yes yes, DHL, yes, Tim—ok.
An hour later a letter is typed, signed and stamped. An admin guy from the office is my driver—he speaks no English and I speak no Arabic—but the ride is nice.
We get to the airport and find DHL. The Saudi military guy signs papers, I show my ID, the coins—in two big boxes—are brought out—and on top is a big red sticker CUSTOMS DUE. Sigh—I pay 550 riyals ($147). They load the boxes in our official government vehicle and off we go back to RSAF HQ.
On the way to the HQ we get a phone call—go to the airbase—a plane is waiting to fly the coins to Dhahran.
We get on the airbase and find the plane—drive right up to it. The pilots shake our hands. The plane is what I call a General’s jet—a small private type plane—not a fighter jet. We give them the conference coins. I call the General. I tell him that I can’t hear him because the engines are running.
I get a call—while driving home—from the General. I expected a They’re nice or They’re ok. Instead I got Tim these are very very nice. Everybody likes them.
Saturday the General comes to work and calls me into his office. He asks me the amount—joking with me that I keep raising it—writes me a check—in Arabic. I take the check to the bank downstairs—I sign it and put my mobile number on it—I get lots of riyals—I’ve been paid in full.
That same day Col Fahid came into our office and gave us each two coins—one intel and one conference. They are nice. The intel one is probably the nicest that I’ve seen. It has so much detail to it—and the crowns on top look brilliant.
This coin story is finished. This was an adventure I wasn’t expecting. But now the RSAF has their very fist coin—maybe it’ll become a tradition.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Friend
Tonight we were in one of the malls—had just finished buying Timmie some pants (he’s become a GAP kid) and we were eating. We were chatting and looking around. I saw this Saudi man with his family. He was looking at me—a slight smile on his face and a small wave.
I looked—he seemed familiar—but who was he. I gave a small wave back. Laurie asked me if I knew the man. I was about to answer her that I wasn’t sure—and then….I realized who it was. It was a Saudi officer student of mine—when I used to instruct at Goodfellow. Then he was Capt Misfer—now he’s a Maj.
I’d never seen him in Saudi dress. He had the same easy going attitude and smile. He seemed happy to see us. He chatted with Timmie. Of course he and I chatted. I got to see Misfer’s three beautiful children. It was just awesome to see him.
Misfer asked me how long I’ve been in Saudi. I told him 6 months—he said it was time I started wearing a thobe. I chuckled at that.
He and his family and are going to be here for 4 months. Laurie and I are going to make a special effort to have them over.
Wow! It was awesome seeing a friendly and familiar face in the big bustling city of Riyadh.
I looked—he seemed familiar—but who was he. I gave a small wave back. Laurie asked me if I knew the man. I was about to answer her that I wasn’t sure—and then….I realized who it was. It was a Saudi officer student of mine—when I used to instruct at Goodfellow. Then he was Capt Misfer—now he’s a Maj.
I’d never seen him in Saudi dress. He had the same easy going attitude and smile. He seemed happy to see us. He chatted with Timmie. Of course he and I chatted. I got to see Misfer’s three beautiful children. It was just awesome to see him.
Misfer asked me how long I’ve been in Saudi. I told him 6 months—he said it was time I started wearing a thobe. I chuckled at that.
He and his family and are going to be here for 4 months. Laurie and I are going to make a special effort to have them over.
Wow! It was awesome seeing a friendly and familiar face in the big bustling city of Riyadh.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Grocery Shopping
I’ve always loved grocery shopping—or I think I always loved it. Mom would take me to the grocery store and I thought it was awesome. The card store—with all the potpourri and candles—get me out of there (now I appreciate the card store). But there this is whole different adventure while shopping for food.
We normally shop at Carrefour (the second largest in the world) or Danube—both are French. The shelves are all nicely stocked. Danube seems nicer to us—cleaner and higher class—kind of like a Target in the States.
As I was shopping the other day and was in the fruits and vegetables section I looked around—food from everywhere. Potatoes from Lebanon, grapes from Syria, garlic from China, watermelons from Saudi, avocadoes from the US (or Saudi—and the Saudi ones are so good—and much cheaper than the US) and so on. It was the UN of food.
Then I wandered down the other aisles—Coca-Cola from Saudi, Campbell’s soup, cereals from the UK and US, candy from all over the world and pasta from Italy.
The cheese counter—I’ve never seen so many different types of cheese—from the UK, France, Denmark (British cheddar—awesome—melts very nicely on Sheppard’s pie. Then there’s the spreadable cheese—I’m kind of scared of that.
The water aisle has water from New Zealand—and it does taste good. Of course there’s Evian and there’s even water from Saudi.
It just amazes me the variety of foods—and it is a variety—you should all the different rice. I love going grocery shopping here—everything is so fresh. I made homemade chicken soup with fresh chicken from Saudi, potatoes from Lebanon, carrots from Australia and onions from…I forget and broth from Campbell’s. It was yum yum good!
We normally shop at Carrefour (the second largest in the world) or Danube—both are French. The shelves are all nicely stocked. Danube seems nicer to us—cleaner and higher class—kind of like a Target in the States.
As I was shopping the other day and was in the fruits and vegetables section I looked around—food from everywhere. Potatoes from Lebanon, grapes from Syria, garlic from China, watermelons from Saudi, avocadoes from the US (or Saudi—and the Saudi ones are so good—and much cheaper than the US) and so on. It was the UN of food.
Then I wandered down the other aisles—Coca-Cola from Saudi, Campbell’s soup, cereals from the UK and US, candy from all over the world and pasta from Italy.
The cheese counter—I’ve never seen so many different types of cheese—from the UK, France, Denmark (British cheddar—awesome—melts very nicely on Sheppard’s pie. Then there’s the spreadable cheese—I’m kind of scared of that.
The water aisle has water from New Zealand—and it does taste good. Of course there’s Evian and there’s even water from Saudi.
It just amazes me the variety of foods—and it is a variety—you should all the different rice. I love going grocery shopping here—everything is so fresh. I made homemade chicken soup with fresh chicken from Saudi, potatoes from Lebanon, carrots from Australia and onions from…I forget and broth from Campbell’s. It was yum yum good!
Honk!
I know that every car comes with a horn. In the US I’ve even used the horn—but only on occasion. I used it mostly in San Angelo—I got tired of waiting while someone talked on their cell phone and the light was green OR waiting for that “mature” person to find to gas pedal (it’s on the right). But, only occasionally did I use the horn. I loved to hear the Mercedes horn—that was awesome and vintage.
Here in Riyadh honking the horn is part of life. I’ve been here six months now and have noticed that there are three types of honks—the “reminder”, irritation and mad.
The “reminder” is that—to remind the person that the light is green and it’s time to go—even the guy in the back honks (for some reason there’s a hesitation on going on green—not with me), to remind the person backing up not to hit you, that a person is gliding into your lane (they may not see the lines on the road and realize that there are only three lanes and not five), that you want to pass a person, etc.. The “reminder” is a nice gentle honk—or series of honks. No malice is meant—just little love taps.
The irritation is that—someone has irritated you and you want them to know. The driver came around the corner without looking (very common here), the person didn’t stop at the stop sign, the “Saudi sweep” happened (someone from the right lane decides they have to turn left and they “sweep” in front of the other cars going straight—lots of honking—very common), a driver changed lanes without using the signal (that depends on how close they cut you off). The irritation honk is longer—or may be a series of longer honks—it depends on the mood of the driver.
The mad honk—you know it. The horn is blasted for a long time. If the driver could up the volume he would. The mad honk isn’t a common occurrence but when it does occur—wow. The mad honk happens when someone in the left lane thinks you are going too slow and they want you out of the way (we’re going 120km and all the lanes are full—but I know you’re important). It can also happen when a car is backing up and not looking (just recently that happened to me—but nothing happened to my car). The mad honk could also happen when a car is zooming along and then cuts you off (I’ve heard some mad ones—and then the race is on). Again, the mad honk doesn’t happen often—but it does happen.
I used to not honk at all—it wasn’t polite. Then when Laurie and Timmie got here I honked all the time—as if I was now free to honk—forget politeness. I’ve toned down my honking—but I do honk. I wonder if I’ll honk when we come back and visit the US? Oh well—honk if you love Saudi—honk honk!
Here in Riyadh honking the horn is part of life. I’ve been here six months now and have noticed that there are three types of honks—the “reminder”, irritation and mad.
The “reminder” is that—to remind the person that the light is green and it’s time to go—even the guy in the back honks (for some reason there’s a hesitation on going on green—not with me), to remind the person backing up not to hit you, that a person is gliding into your lane (they may not see the lines on the road and realize that there are only three lanes and not five), that you want to pass a person, etc.. The “reminder” is a nice gentle honk—or series of honks. No malice is meant—just little love taps.
The irritation is that—someone has irritated you and you want them to know. The driver came around the corner without looking (very common here), the person didn’t stop at the stop sign, the “Saudi sweep” happened (someone from the right lane decides they have to turn left and they “sweep” in front of the other cars going straight—lots of honking—very common), a driver changed lanes without using the signal (that depends on how close they cut you off). The irritation honk is longer—or may be a series of longer honks—it depends on the mood of the driver.
The mad honk—you know it. The horn is blasted for a long time. If the driver could up the volume he would. The mad honk isn’t a common occurrence but when it does occur—wow. The mad honk happens when someone in the left lane thinks you are going too slow and they want you out of the way (we’re going 120km and all the lanes are full—but I know you’re important). It can also happen when a car is backing up and not looking (just recently that happened to me—but nothing happened to my car). The mad honk could also happen when a car is zooming along and then cuts you off (I’ve heard some mad ones—and then the race is on). Again, the mad honk doesn’t happen often—but it does happen.
I used to not honk at all—it wasn’t polite. Then when Laurie and Timmie got here I honked all the time—as if I was now free to honk—forget politeness. I’ve toned down my honking—but I do honk. I wonder if I’ll honk when we come back and visit the US? Oh well—honk if you love Saudi—honk honk!
Monday, October 6, 2008
Happy Birthday Timmie!
Happy Birthday Timmy! Timmy turned 8 on 3 Oct—wow. When Timmie was born I told Laurie that if we could keep him alive for the first year then he’d be ok. Now he’s 8—and he’s an awesome young boy.
Timmie decided that he wanted “Chinese stuff" for his birthday. I didn’t even know what that meant—and we’re in Saudi not China. However, there is a Chinatown in two of the malls—and they do have "Chinese stuff." Off Laurie and I went—one night—to buy Timmy his “Chinese stuff.” We ended up buying him a jade dragon (he was born in the year of the dragon) and two Chinese lanterns. We also saw a globe that Timmie had been eyeing--so we got that also.
Then we went to SACO World—which is the Home Depot of the Kingdom. There we got him a new bike—very nice.
We discussed getting him a mobile—sometimes Laurie doesn’t ride the bus and sometimes I don’t leave the office right at 230. I wanted a way to get in touch with Timmie the days Laurie doesn’t ride the bus. So we decided to get him a mobile—nothing fancy. We let him pick it out but we set a price range—and of course we set some rules on when to use the phone. I’ve never seen a child so excited about getting a mobile. He wanted to put everyone’s number in it. He’s already taken a picture with it—a camel in the back of a truck—here in the city.
Timmy had a small birthday party with children from the compound over. Laurie organized games—she’s always great at that. Laurie created a ninja theme—in keeping with the “Chinese stuff.” The children had fun. Then there was a Krispy Kreme donut cake—pretty cool (the Krispy Kreme guy asked me today how Timmie enjoyed his donut cake). Presents were opened—and he got a lot of cool things from his friends. Then everybody went home—I was exhausted.
Wow—8 years old and a birthday party in Saudi—how awesome is that!
Happy Birthday Timme!
Timmie decided that he wanted “Chinese stuff" for his birthday. I didn’t even know what that meant—and we’re in Saudi not China. However, there is a Chinatown in two of the malls—and they do have "Chinese stuff." Off Laurie and I went—one night—to buy Timmy his “Chinese stuff.” We ended up buying him a jade dragon (he was born in the year of the dragon) and two Chinese lanterns. We also saw a globe that Timmie had been eyeing--so we got that also.
Then we went to SACO World—which is the Home Depot of the Kingdom. There we got him a new bike—very nice.
We discussed getting him a mobile—sometimes Laurie doesn’t ride the bus and sometimes I don’t leave the office right at 230. I wanted a way to get in touch with Timmie the days Laurie doesn’t ride the bus. So we decided to get him a mobile—nothing fancy. We let him pick it out but we set a price range—and of course we set some rules on when to use the phone. I’ve never seen a child so excited about getting a mobile. He wanted to put everyone’s number in it. He’s already taken a picture with it—a camel in the back of a truck—here in the city.
Timmy had a small birthday party with children from the compound over. Laurie organized games—she’s always great at that. Laurie created a ninja theme—in keeping with the “Chinese stuff.” The children had fun. Then there was a Krispy Kreme donut cake—pretty cool (the Krispy Kreme guy asked me today how Timmie enjoyed his donut cake). Presents were opened—and he got a lot of cool things from his friends. Then everybody went home—I was exhausted.
Wow—8 years old and a birthday party in Saudi—how awesome is that!
Happy Birthday Timme!
Happy Birthday to me
Happy Birthday me! I turned 43 on 22 Sept—awesome. Growing up I often thought that people 30 and above were old—except my parents. My parents always seemed youthful and energetic. They always seemed to be on the go—balls, dances an dinner parties. My parents never looked their age. Even when my Mom died she looked so young. Today at 63 my Dad still has that youthful look to him.
I asked Laurie if I looked any older—she said I had a few more grey hairs—but that I still looked youthful. That made me feel good—even though I saw a slight smile when she was telling me this.
If you though that me buying gifts for Laurie was a challenge—poor Laurie. I gave her the list and off we went—the whole family. I enjoyed seeing Laurie and Timmie buy my gifts. I’m glad I could help pick out my cake. Laurie told me how lame she felt. But really it was fun to me. This is still all new to us—and Ramadan kind of threw us a curve.
This is our first year for birthdays in the Kingdom—next year we’ll know not to look for Target or wait until the last minute. Next year it’ll be Ramadan again—so it’ll be another year of night shopping—but we’ll be better prepared.
But hey—I’m a youthful 43 years old—and you can’t buy that.
I asked Laurie if I looked any older—she said I had a few more grey hairs—but that I still looked youthful. That made me feel good—even though I saw a slight smile when she was telling me this.
If you though that me buying gifts for Laurie was a challenge—poor Laurie. I gave her the list and off we went—the whole family. I enjoyed seeing Laurie and Timmie buy my gifts. I’m glad I could help pick out my cake. Laurie told me how lame she felt. But really it was fun to me. This is still all new to us—and Ramadan kind of threw us a curve.
This is our first year for birthdays in the Kingdom—next year we’ll know not to look for Target or wait until the last minute. Next year it’ll be Ramadan again—so it’ll be another year of night shopping—but we’ll be better prepared.
But hey—I’m a youthful 43 years old—and you can’t buy that.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Mechanic
When I was provided a contract to come over here one of the lines said that the company would provide transportation. That could have meant anything from a bus to a carpool. So I was curious as to what kind of transportation. The company, AEC, gives us cars to drive--awesome. I’m one of the few that does carpool—and that’s ok.
The cars that we get are all Toyota. A lot of people have the Camry but some of us have the Corolla. I'm not in love with the Corolla but I'm not going to complain about a free car and gas ( get 100SAR a month for gas—and I’ve never turned in receipts for that much and I drive all over Riyadh—work, shopping, eating out, the school to pick up Laurie and other places). I'm also not going to complain because the company provides a mechanic to take care of the cars. You read right--a mechanic.
When the Corolla reached a 1,000 km I called the mechanic. His accent is a little heavy and it was a little difficult to understand him at first. What I figured out was that he would meet me at the compound and pick up the car--awesome (or brilliant as my UK friend would say). He called me when he got here and I meet him at the gate--gave him the car and off he drove. I found out that I should have asked for a “trader” car while he had mine--live and learn. The mechanic brought the car back the next evening.
Two weeks ago I had a flat tire--bummer. I called the mechanic and he said he would come and fix it--then he realized he can't come onto the base. I told the mechanic not to worry--I would change the tire and then he could come and pick up the flat when I got home. I did and he did. That day he also asked me how many km were on the car and I told him 6,000--which meant it was time for its next check. But the timing wasn't convenient for either of us. I asked if I could wait until the break (which is from today until 11 Oct for me—if only I had gotten our exit / entry visas we could have gone somewhere—I’ll know better for next year) and he said yes.
Today I got a phone call--it was the mechanic. He said he would come and get the car at 330--but this time I told him I was going to need a "trader." The mechanic called again at 330--he was here. So I drove to the gate. He was in a new 2008 Hyundai Sonata--wow is it nice. We traded.
Just another perk about being here--someone picks up the car the company is providing, gives you a "trader" and brings your car back after he's finished. What a great thing--to have the mechanic pick up and deliver the car from your house--brilliant.
The cars that we get are all Toyota. A lot of people have the Camry but some of us have the Corolla. I'm not in love with the Corolla but I'm not going to complain about a free car and gas ( get 100SAR a month for gas—and I’ve never turned in receipts for that much and I drive all over Riyadh—work, shopping, eating out, the school to pick up Laurie and other places). I'm also not going to complain because the company provides a mechanic to take care of the cars. You read right--a mechanic.
When the Corolla reached a 1,000 km I called the mechanic. His accent is a little heavy and it was a little difficult to understand him at first. What I figured out was that he would meet me at the compound and pick up the car--awesome (or brilliant as my UK friend would say). He called me when he got here and I meet him at the gate--gave him the car and off he drove. I found out that I should have asked for a “trader” car while he had mine--live and learn. The mechanic brought the car back the next evening.
Two weeks ago I had a flat tire--bummer. I called the mechanic and he said he would come and fix it--then he realized he can't come onto the base. I told the mechanic not to worry--I would change the tire and then he could come and pick up the flat when I got home. I did and he did. That day he also asked me how many km were on the car and I told him 6,000--which meant it was time for its next check. But the timing wasn't convenient for either of us. I asked if I could wait until the break (which is from today until 11 Oct for me—if only I had gotten our exit / entry visas we could have gone somewhere—I’ll know better for next year) and he said yes.
Today I got a phone call--it was the mechanic. He said he would come and get the car at 330--but this time I told him I was going to need a "trader." The mechanic called again at 330--he was here. So I drove to the gate. He was in a new 2008 Hyundai Sonata--wow is it nice. We traded.
Just another perk about being here--someone picks up the car the company is providing, gives you a "trader" and brings your car back after he's finished. What a great thing--to have the mechanic pick up and deliver the car from your house--brilliant.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
In the US when most of go to the mailbox to check mail we find bills, flyers, magazines and sometimes a letter or card from friends and family (the bills and flyers make us sigh—but the letter or card normally bring a smile to our faces). Today our communication is changing and most us now use e-mail to send a receive "letters" from each other. I'm not knocking e-mail--I love it. But, there's something really special about a handwritten card, letter or note that you get in the mail.
When I was in the Air Force my Dad wrote me faithfully. No matter where I was in the world I knew I would get a letter from Dad at least monthly--and sometimes weekly. I started keeping them--hoping that one day I'll go back and re-read them (right now they're all boxes in San Angelo--in storage). When I married Laurie she sent letters and cards when I was in Korea for our first year of marriage (though she preferred e-mail—and I saved those).
Now we're overseas living in an area where getting the mail is iffy at best. My company gave us a stateside address and then from there they send the mail over here. Then the company picks up the mail and eventually I get it.
The first time I got mail here it was really exciting. It made it! The system works. When Laurie and Timmie got here Grandma Tanner sent them a card--I got teary eyed--she was the first person to send a real letter--handwritten, enveloped addressed and stamped--from the US! Grandma Tanner then sent Laurie a birthday card--and that was exciting.
This week Laurie and I got cards from Dad and Myrna. I went to the company office on Wed to drop off some paperwork and pictures of us (more pictures--if you ever work over here bring at least 20 passport size photos of yourself--you'll use them all). While at the company office Mr. Saad said "Mr. Tim, you have mail." He gave me an envelope--I opened it--house payment--rental receipt--and two cards with my Dad's handwriting. I opened mine. It was a birthday card and there was even a check in it. I have to admit that my eyes teared up just a little. It reminded me of how important mail is--communication with family friends is--we all need and want to stay connected.
Our family is having great adventures here--last night Laurie and I "found" 4 stores that we had been looking for--I think it was because it was 11 at night and the bright lights got our attention. But we still love getting mail--real mail--from families and friends back home in the US. It brings a little of the US to Saudi and reminds us of home—that place that can seem so far away.
Thanks Dad and Grandma Tanner for the cards and letters you've sent. We got mail!
When I was in the Air Force my Dad wrote me faithfully. No matter where I was in the world I knew I would get a letter from Dad at least monthly--and sometimes weekly. I started keeping them--hoping that one day I'll go back and re-read them (right now they're all boxes in San Angelo--in storage). When I married Laurie she sent letters and cards when I was in Korea for our first year of marriage (though she preferred e-mail—and I saved those).
Now we're overseas living in an area where getting the mail is iffy at best. My company gave us a stateside address and then from there they send the mail over here. Then the company picks up the mail and eventually I get it.
The first time I got mail here it was really exciting. It made it! The system works. When Laurie and Timmie got here Grandma Tanner sent them a card--I got teary eyed--she was the first person to send a real letter--handwritten, enveloped addressed and stamped--from the US! Grandma Tanner then sent Laurie a birthday card--and that was exciting.
This week Laurie and I got cards from Dad and Myrna. I went to the company office on Wed to drop off some paperwork and pictures of us (more pictures--if you ever work over here bring at least 20 passport size photos of yourself--you'll use them all). While at the company office Mr. Saad said "Mr. Tim, you have mail." He gave me an envelope--I opened it--house payment--rental receipt--and two cards with my Dad's handwriting. I opened mine. It was a birthday card and there was even a check in it. I have to admit that my eyes teared up just a little. It reminded me of how important mail is--communication with family friends is--we all need and want to stay connected.
Our family is having great adventures here--last night Laurie and I "found" 4 stores that we had been looking for--I think it was because it was 11 at night and the bright lights got our attention. But we still love getting mail--real mail--from families and friends back home in the US. It brings a little of the US to Saudi and reminds us of home—that place that can seem so far away.
Thanks Dad and Grandma Tanner for the cards and letters you've sent. We got mail!
Monday, September 15, 2008
Happy Birthday Laurie!
Laurie's birthday was 12 Sept--Fri. I won't tell how old she is--but she's high 30's--the highest 30 you can be without being 40 (that'll be next year). I wanted to make sure that Laurie had an awesome birthday. That was something of challenge during Ramadan--remember most stores are closed during the day. I'm used to being able to go to Target, Bath and Body and I'm done.
I had a vision of what I wanted to get Laurie--clothes, jewelry, chocolates, bubble bath--you know the good stuff. Laurie had her vision--a computer, something about ink for the printer--and other stuff I can't remember. As usual our visions didn't match.
Timmie and I went out at 7pm on Wed night--surely the progressive Kingdom Mall would be open. Traffic was very light. We got to the mall quickly. Parking was plentiful--that should have been a sign. We go into the mall--all the stores are closed. Then we heard prayer starting. We decided to drive around for a while looking at the lights. Timmie talked to me about life, school and other topics (I really enjoyed being with him). After a while he said he was tired and could I take him home--so I did. By this time it was 8ish. Laurie was in bed--something about being tired--I wasn't really paying attention. I gave them both kisses and told them I was going back out. Out I went.
It was 845ish. The traffic was heavier. Lots of cars playing loud music. Lots of younger guys driving--teenage looking. The good news--all the malls were open. The bad news--Marks and Spencer didn't have what I was looking for. Now I'm about to panic. I go to my favorite mall--the Hyatt Mall.
I wandered around Hyatt trying to get inspired. I did. I found a shop that had awesome smelling bath gel. The desert warrior was a good salesman. I bought 4 and then he wrapped them in a box with a ribbon--very nice. Ok one gift--but I wanted others.
I spotted a Chinese store. Went in. The Chinese guy was so nice I felt like I had to buy something. I bought Laurie a cloth jewelry box and Timmie a small dragon (he's our dragon). Ok I'm starting to feel better. Off to Danube.
Danube has the best--yes the best (so far)--cakes that I've ever eaten (Ruth--the cakes are such a temptation!). The most delish cakes! I both a huge cake with chocolate ganache, chocolate squares and chocolate covered strawberries on the outside--inside it was three layers of chocolate cake with a light creamy filling--wow. It was a beautiful cake. I'm feeling a lot better--but I still needed one more thing. Then I remembered--Laurie mentioned that she wanted the Wii Fit. AND the guy I work with--Lenny--had told me the day before that Jarir had the Wii Fit. Now I'm off to Jarir. And the time--around midnight and I've been shopping for 3 hours.
I had to go to two Jarir's--the second one knew what I was talking about and helped me find it. Wow! I bought the last one. I was so excited to see how Laurie would react to this gift.
I got home and unloaded the gifts and cake. I looked at the clock--0130--yes--it was 0130. You should see the streets--full of cars. So much honking. Music blaring from the cars--this was a whole side of Riyadh night life that I hadn't seen before and I loved it.
I hid the gifts in the maid's room--under the bed--and put the cake in the fridge. The next day was Thursday. I showed Timmie the gifts--he was impressed. We ended up giving Laurie all of her presents that evening. She loved them all. Then we had a big slice of cake--so yum. And the Wii Fit--we've been using it an it's awesome.
Happy Birthday Laurie! You're awesome!
I had a vision of what I wanted to get Laurie--clothes, jewelry, chocolates, bubble bath--you know the good stuff. Laurie had her vision--a computer, something about ink for the printer--and other stuff I can't remember. As usual our visions didn't match.
Timmie and I went out at 7pm on Wed night--surely the progressive Kingdom Mall would be open. Traffic was very light. We got to the mall quickly. Parking was plentiful--that should have been a sign. We go into the mall--all the stores are closed. Then we heard prayer starting. We decided to drive around for a while looking at the lights. Timmie talked to me about life, school and other topics (I really enjoyed being with him). After a while he said he was tired and could I take him home--so I did. By this time it was 8ish. Laurie was in bed--something about being tired--I wasn't really paying attention. I gave them both kisses and told them I was going back out. Out I went.
It was 845ish. The traffic was heavier. Lots of cars playing loud music. Lots of younger guys driving--teenage looking. The good news--all the malls were open. The bad news--Marks and Spencer didn't have what I was looking for. Now I'm about to panic. I go to my favorite mall--the Hyatt Mall.
I wandered around Hyatt trying to get inspired. I did. I found a shop that had awesome smelling bath gel. The desert warrior was a good salesman. I bought 4 and then he wrapped them in a box with a ribbon--very nice. Ok one gift--but I wanted others.
I spotted a Chinese store. Went in. The Chinese guy was so nice I felt like I had to buy something. I bought Laurie a cloth jewelry box and Timmie a small dragon (he's our dragon). Ok I'm starting to feel better. Off to Danube.
Danube has the best--yes the best (so far)--cakes that I've ever eaten (Ruth--the cakes are such a temptation!). The most delish cakes! I both a huge cake with chocolate ganache, chocolate squares and chocolate covered strawberries on the outside--inside it was three layers of chocolate cake with a light creamy filling--wow. It was a beautiful cake. I'm feeling a lot better--but I still needed one more thing. Then I remembered--Laurie mentioned that she wanted the Wii Fit. AND the guy I work with--Lenny--had told me the day before that Jarir had the Wii Fit. Now I'm off to Jarir. And the time--around midnight and I've been shopping for 3 hours.
I had to go to two Jarir's--the second one knew what I was talking about and helped me find it. Wow! I bought the last one. I was so excited to see how Laurie would react to this gift.
I got home and unloaded the gifts and cake. I looked at the clock--0130--yes--it was 0130. You should see the streets--full of cars. So much honking. Music blaring from the cars--this was a whole side of Riyadh night life that I hadn't seen before and I loved it.
I hid the gifts in the maid's room--under the bed--and put the cake in the fridge. The next day was Thursday. I showed Timmie the gifts--he was impressed. We ended up giving Laurie all of her presents that evening. She loved them all. Then we had a big slice of cake--so yum. And the Wii Fit--we've been using it an it's awesome.
Happy Birthday Laurie! You're awesome!
Monday, September 8, 2008
Ramadan
Ramadan is here. When I was here in the Kingdom 13 years ago I got to experience Ramadan. Then I was active duty Air Force. What I remember is that we were told not to drink or eat in front of the Saudi's--so we didn't. I also remember that evening prayer seemed to last forever. Everything was open in the evening until morning--or so it seemed.
One night there were 4 of us waiting for evening prayer to be over. We were so hungry but none of the restaurants were open. We heard this "psst." We looked around--nothing. "Psst--are you hungry?" Was this a joke? We finally saw a little TCN. We said "Yes, we're hungry." He motioned for us to follow him
The TCN took us to the alley. Great we're going to be mugged. Instead he looked around--knocked on a door--a small opening--words were whispered--the door opened. We went inside. The bottom floor was dark and empty. He took us upstairs.
The upstairs made up for the dark downstairs. Upstairs there was music, smoking, laughing and eating. It was the best meal I had!
Ramadan is the holy month. Once they see the crescent moon the fast begins. The month changes every year--moves up two weeks each year. This is a big deal for the Saudis. This is a big deal for the country. There are some employers that will fire an employee that is caught drinking or eating. All of us expats are warned not to eat or drink in public--it's against the rules--the Embassy sends us this via e-mail. Night becomes day and day becomes night. It's chaos.
It's not just food and drink that is forbidden during the day. No smoking, no sex, no...no temptations of the flesh.
I love my work hours during Ramadan. I work from 1000 to 3--you're reading it right--1000 - 3--that's 5 hours. We usually get in around 0945 and then leave 5 hours later. It sounds great--but it's getting boring. There's no lunch to break up our day. We're in our office the whole time. But that's not to say we don't eat or drink--we do.
When prayer is called--around noon--we close and lock our door. Then we expats get out our contraband water and food. We quickly--and I mean quickly--gulp down our water and eat our food. We put the wrappers and empty bottles back in our desk drawers and then later I bring in a bag and bring it home to throw away. We brush the crumbs off our desk and shirts and then open the door. This takes us about 5 minutes--but it keeps us going.
The Saudis I work with have told us we're allowed to eat and drink--in the open. But we've told them that we respect their culture and we'll close the door. I think they know what we're doing but they respect that we don't have food and water out.
Each evening they break their fast with a big meal. There are tents all over town for the poor--or anybody that wants to eat. Then at the end of Ramadan there is a huge feast that lasts for about three days.
The bad thing about Ramadan--night becomes day. Most shops aren't open during the day--only at night. Laurie and I went out--it was nice. Timmie and I went out--the stores were still closed so we came back home and bought what we needed at the market here at the compound.
I respect that the Muslims do fast during the day. I haven't seen any try to sneak a drink or eat something. I know that around 6pm they're going to eat and eat. I'm not sure that's what the Prophet had in mind. I think his vision was a time to read the Quran, fast during the day and then eat sparingly in the evening--all to bring a person spiritually closer to Allah. Oh well things change with time and interpretation. I'm hungry and thirsty!
One night there were 4 of us waiting for evening prayer to be over. We were so hungry but none of the restaurants were open. We heard this "psst." We looked around--nothing. "Psst--are you hungry?" Was this a joke? We finally saw a little TCN. We said "Yes, we're hungry." He motioned for us to follow him
The TCN took us to the alley. Great we're going to be mugged. Instead he looked around--knocked on a door--a small opening--words were whispered--the door opened. We went inside. The bottom floor was dark and empty. He took us upstairs.
The upstairs made up for the dark downstairs. Upstairs there was music, smoking, laughing and eating. It was the best meal I had!
Ramadan is the holy month. Once they see the crescent moon the fast begins. The month changes every year--moves up two weeks each year. This is a big deal for the Saudis. This is a big deal for the country. There are some employers that will fire an employee that is caught drinking or eating. All of us expats are warned not to eat or drink in public--it's against the rules--the Embassy sends us this via e-mail. Night becomes day and day becomes night. It's chaos.
It's not just food and drink that is forbidden during the day. No smoking, no sex, no...no temptations of the flesh.
I love my work hours during Ramadan. I work from 1000 to 3--you're reading it right--1000 - 3--that's 5 hours. We usually get in around 0945 and then leave 5 hours later. It sounds great--but it's getting boring. There's no lunch to break up our day. We're in our office the whole time. But that's not to say we don't eat or drink--we do.
When prayer is called--around noon--we close and lock our door. Then we expats get out our contraband water and food. We quickly--and I mean quickly--gulp down our water and eat our food. We put the wrappers and empty bottles back in our desk drawers and then later I bring in a bag and bring it home to throw away. We brush the crumbs off our desk and shirts and then open the door. This takes us about 5 minutes--but it keeps us going.
The Saudis I work with have told us we're allowed to eat and drink--in the open. But we've told them that we respect their culture and we'll close the door. I think they know what we're doing but they respect that we don't have food and water out.
Each evening they break their fast with a big meal. There are tents all over town for the poor--or anybody that wants to eat. Then at the end of Ramadan there is a huge feast that lasts for about three days.
The bad thing about Ramadan--night becomes day. Most shops aren't open during the day--only at night. Laurie and I went out--it was nice. Timmie and I went out--the stores were still closed so we came back home and bought what we needed at the market here at the compound.
I respect that the Muslims do fast during the day. I haven't seen any try to sneak a drink or eat something. I know that around 6pm they're going to eat and eat. I'm not sure that's what the Prophet had in mind. I think his vision was a time to read the Quran, fast during the day and then eat sparingly in the evening--all to bring a person spiritually closer to Allah. Oh well things change with time and interpretation. I'm hungry and thirsty!
Friday, August 29, 2008
Finding pants
To me it shouldn't be that hard to find a pair of pants. It's not like I'm some weird size that can only be found in the US. People come in a variety of sizes here in the Kingdom--they're not all slender. But I've had the hardest time finding a pair of pants.
The sizes are European--which I can never convert in my head--so that makes it difficult to find a pair. Then if I do find a pair that looks like it might fit there are no dressing rooms to try them on (that protection thing--somebody would probably try to peak).
I finally found a store--Marks and Spenser--that had US sizes. I looked and found some slacks. Then I noticed something--something that I had seen before but didn't pay attention to--the pant lengths are all odd numbers (29, 31 and 33). I'm a 32 length. I held up the 31--they seemed ok. The store clerk assured me they would fit. I bought them and brought them home--they didn't fit. Too short for me. So we had to go back and exchange them--which was a very easy process at Marks and Spencer (it a British store with over 830 stores worldwide). I bought the 33 length. They look nice--but...I really wish they had 32. I asked the store clerk why they didn't have even sizes but he didn't know--he only knew what sizes they had.
Now I understand why most expats take an empty suitcase back to the US with them--they stock up on clothes that fit--haha. So next year--Kohls watch out because I'm going to need some new pants--that fit.
The sizes are European--which I can never convert in my head--so that makes it difficult to find a pair. Then if I do find a pair that looks like it might fit there are no dressing rooms to try them on (that protection thing--somebody would probably try to peak).
I finally found a store--Marks and Spenser--that had US sizes. I looked and found some slacks. Then I noticed something--something that I had seen before but didn't pay attention to--the pant lengths are all odd numbers (29, 31 and 33). I'm a 32 length. I held up the 31--they seemed ok. The store clerk assured me they would fit. I bought them and brought them home--they didn't fit. Too short for me. So we had to go back and exchange them--which was a very easy process at Marks and Spencer (it a British store with over 830 stores worldwide). I bought the 33 length. They look nice--but...I really wish they had 32. I asked the store clerk why they didn't have even sizes but he didn't know--he only knew what sizes they had.
Now I understand why most expats take an empty suitcase back to the US with them--they stock up on clothes that fit--haha. So next year--Kohls watch out because I'm going to need some new pants--that fit.
Bright lights, Big city
Now that Laurie and Timmie are here I get to see more of the city--at night. When I was here alone I went out anytime I wanted--which was normally after work and I was usually back before dark. However, Timmie has school and Laurie is at work until around 4. Most stores don't open until 4--after the noon prayer they close--but Laurie needs a chance to wind down and we have to eat (unless we eat out--which we've been doing but we're starting to get tired of it--only one more trip to Subway and our card will be filled). We don't usually leave the house until 6ish--and even then we may get caught during prayer time (some stores kick you out others let you stay but you're locked in and can't leave until after the prayer is over).
It's not that the malls or stores are that far away but the traffic--unreal. Riyadh is tearing up roads, there are detours and it seems that traffic is more congested. It seems to take forever to shop and we don't usually get back until 8 or 830--and then it's time for Timmie to go to bed. While we're out the bright lights come on.
To me Riyadh is pretty at night with all the different colored lights. There's an energy to the place at night--during the day I don't "feel" that energy. There are so many cars on the roads and so many families shopping (if you get to the malls in the morning around 0900 you'll see other expats but very few Saudi's--though some of the Mamas do come out that early).
The Saudi's I know don't go out during the day--they go out at night--they're amused when i tell them I went shopping during the day. The air is cooler, the men are home from work, it's family time. This is a different concept for me since I'm used to being home at night--all the shopping was done during the day by Laurie or me on my home from work. I didn't go out at night in San Angelo unless I had to and even going to HEB at night annoyed me (and that was 2 miles from the house). But here I've embraced the night shopping.
I'm curious to see what it will be like next month during Ramadan. Then everything is closed during the day and only open at night. I've been told that if I think driving is crazy now--well Ramadan is crazier (maybe it's because they can't wait to eat). We're waiting to see what our work hours will be for Ramadan. Last year it was 1000-3pm--5 hours--and we got two weeks off (paid!). But no matter if it's Ramadan or just a normal night--the bright lights are beautiful in this big city.
It's not that the malls or stores are that far away but the traffic--unreal. Riyadh is tearing up roads, there are detours and it seems that traffic is more congested. It seems to take forever to shop and we don't usually get back until 8 or 830--and then it's time for Timmie to go to bed. While we're out the bright lights come on.
To me Riyadh is pretty at night with all the different colored lights. There's an energy to the place at night--during the day I don't "feel" that energy. There are so many cars on the roads and so many families shopping (if you get to the malls in the morning around 0900 you'll see other expats but very few Saudi's--though some of the Mamas do come out that early).
The Saudi's I know don't go out during the day--they go out at night--they're amused when i tell them I went shopping during the day. The air is cooler, the men are home from work, it's family time. This is a different concept for me since I'm used to being home at night--all the shopping was done during the day by Laurie or me on my home from work. I didn't go out at night in San Angelo unless I had to and even going to HEB at night annoyed me (and that was 2 miles from the house). But here I've embraced the night shopping.
I'm curious to see what it will be like next month during Ramadan. Then everything is closed during the day and only open at night. I've been told that if I think driving is crazy now--well Ramadan is crazier (maybe it's because they can't wait to eat). We're waiting to see what our work hours will be for Ramadan. Last year it was 1000-3pm--5 hours--and we got two weeks off (paid!). But no matter if it's Ramadan or just a normal night--the bright lights are beautiful in this big city.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Meet the Teacher night
Yesterday was Meet the Teacher night. I loved it. As a parent I want to go and see the enviroment that Timmie is getting his education in. I want to see the classroom, samples of his work and to hear the comments from his teacher. I'm never dissapointed. I was really looking forward to this year since the school has an international flair to it. Another plus to this year is I got to see Madame Library's office (it's big and she was a hit!).
I grew up in the South. We all "looked" and "sounded" the "same." Going to school was no big deal. But here--wow. Last night there were American accents--and you how varied they can be--Arab accents, German, Australian, Canadian (Timmie's teacher--Mr Bennett--is Canadian) and so many others. It was awesome to hear all these accents speaking English.
It was also interesting to see the parents--and you can tell that they want the best education for their children. Just like the US some parents seemed high-strung while others were very laid back. Some were dressed in very nice clothes while othere were wearing jeans.
I really liked the variety. I even got to meet the new PTSA President--she's Saudi--and she's already invited Timmie to come to their house and play (a play date is supposed to be set up within the next two weeks--inshallah).
This is the most diverse school I've been exposed to. I hope that all the children learn to appreciate different cultures. I am so glad that Timmie has this opportunity--it's lik no opportunity he would have been able to have in our small town of San Angelo (but McGill was an awesome school and his teacher was the most loving teacher I've seen--I still get tears when I think of Ms. Nichols).
I feel completely safe at the school. The security there is better than here at the compound or the RSAF HQ where I work. They really protect the children and they take it very seriously. The cool thing is as soon as the guards saw Lauie they all smile "Hello Ms Laurie" or "Hello Ma'am"--they all recoginzed her. I had a great time at our Meet the Teacher night--the adventure of driving there--that's another blog.
I grew up in the South. We all "looked" and "sounded" the "same." Going to school was no big deal. But here--wow. Last night there were American accents--and you how varied they can be--Arab accents, German, Australian, Canadian (Timmie's teacher--Mr Bennett--is Canadian) and so many others. It was awesome to hear all these accents speaking English.
It was also interesting to see the parents--and you can tell that they want the best education for their children. Just like the US some parents seemed high-strung while others were very laid back. Some were dressed in very nice clothes while othere were wearing jeans.
I really liked the variety. I even got to meet the new PTSA President--she's Saudi--and she's already invited Timmie to come to their house and play (a play date is supposed to be set up within the next two weeks--inshallah).
This is the most diverse school I've been exposed to. I hope that all the children learn to appreciate different cultures. I am so glad that Timmie has this opportunity--it's lik no opportunity he would have been able to have in our small town of San Angelo (but McGill was an awesome school and his teacher was the most loving teacher I've seen--I still get tears when I think of Ms. Nichols).
I feel completely safe at the school. The security there is better than here at the compound or the RSAF HQ where I work. They really protect the children and they take it very seriously. The cool thing is as soon as the guards saw Lauie they all smile "Hello Ms Laurie" or "Hello Ma'am"--they all recoginzed her. I had a great time at our Meet the Teacher night--the adventure of driving there--that's another blog.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
"Please cover your head"
Every expat has a muttawa story. Now we have ours. The muttawa are the "religious police" or The Office of Prevention of Vice--something like that. They're supposed to make sure that everything is going religiously well in the Kingdom. At one time they were very powerful. However, their power is slipping and most Saudis would like these men to just go away.
I heard one funny story about a muttawa incident. There was a large American. He had done something that upset the muttawa. A muttawa took his stick and poked the American in the chest as he was screaming at him in Arabic. The American pushed the stick away and told the muttawa not to do that again in English. This happened two more times. On the third time the American took the stick, broke it in two and threw in down on the ground. The muttawa left.
There are horror stories too. A US-Saudi business woman was "caught" with a man not her husband. She was having a business meeting in Starbucks. The muttawa "arrested" her and took her jail. She was forced to admit that she had done wrong--after her clothes had been put in the filthy toilet and she was forced to wear these clothes in front of the judge (showing her uncleanness and humiliating her). Her husband has since hired bodyguards to protect her.
Westerners tend to be able to "get away" with most things. But, the muttawa still like to show that they are in charge. I've been told that if a muttawa says something to ignore them and nothing will happen to me--especially since I'm white.
So, Laurie, Timmie and I were walking from Hyatt Mall to the Sahara Mall--they're right next to eachother. We left the Hyatt and were getting ready to cross the street. A green Suburban with a police symbol pulled up. Laurie had her abayya on (which she doesn't have to wear according to the law but all expat women are "encouraged" to wear it) and her head scarf was around her neck (the normal place an expat woman wears it). A Saudi man with piercing eyes (actually kind of scary wacky eyes) looked at Laurie and said "Please, cover your head." It wasn’t' mean, but it wasn't nice. Laurie did. They drove off. We went into the Sahara Mall.
While in the mall Laurie kept the scarf on her head. As we were leaving the mall who do we pass? The muttawa. He looked at us and kept walking.
So what do we do as expats? Do we ignore the muttawa? Do we "give in" so they can pretend they are “in charge?" It's really a quandary. The bottom line is nobody forced any of us to come here and work. We all came on our own accord. We knew that there were laws and customs to obey. It's always interesting to hear what the more "seasoned" expats have to say. Most will vilify the muttawa but do what they say.
It's not like there are a million muttawa. The last figure I saw was around 10,000. Riyadh has something like 8 million people. So it's not as if the muttawa are lurking on every street corner with a stick ready to beat people (the sticks are long gone and there are way too many street corners). They don't hit you anymore. They have to have a policeman to "arrest" you. They aren't allowed to arrest a woman by themselves--in fact from what I understand a woman can't be arrested unless the husband or a male relative is there and agrees. And if you talk back to the muttawa they tend to back down--especially if you are Western (but I'm not ready to try that just yet). Their "power" is slipping and they know it--maybe that's why they look so mad.
It's just another part of the adventure of being here. At least he said "Please."
I heard one funny story about a muttawa incident. There was a large American. He had done something that upset the muttawa. A muttawa took his stick and poked the American in the chest as he was screaming at him in Arabic. The American pushed the stick away and told the muttawa not to do that again in English. This happened two more times. On the third time the American took the stick, broke it in two and threw in down on the ground. The muttawa left.
There are horror stories too. A US-Saudi business woman was "caught" with a man not her husband. She was having a business meeting in Starbucks. The muttawa "arrested" her and took her jail. She was forced to admit that she had done wrong--after her clothes had been put in the filthy toilet and she was forced to wear these clothes in front of the judge (showing her uncleanness and humiliating her). Her husband has since hired bodyguards to protect her.
Westerners tend to be able to "get away" with most things. But, the muttawa still like to show that they are in charge. I've been told that if a muttawa says something to ignore them and nothing will happen to me--especially since I'm white.
So, Laurie, Timmie and I were walking from Hyatt Mall to the Sahara Mall--they're right next to eachother. We left the Hyatt and were getting ready to cross the street. A green Suburban with a police symbol pulled up. Laurie had her abayya on (which she doesn't have to wear according to the law but all expat women are "encouraged" to wear it) and her head scarf was around her neck (the normal place an expat woman wears it). A Saudi man with piercing eyes (actually kind of scary wacky eyes) looked at Laurie and said "Please, cover your head." It wasn’t' mean, but it wasn't nice. Laurie did. They drove off. We went into the Sahara Mall.
While in the mall Laurie kept the scarf on her head. As we were leaving the mall who do we pass? The muttawa. He looked at us and kept walking.
So what do we do as expats? Do we ignore the muttawa? Do we "give in" so they can pretend they are “in charge?" It's really a quandary. The bottom line is nobody forced any of us to come here and work. We all came on our own accord. We knew that there were laws and customs to obey. It's always interesting to hear what the more "seasoned" expats have to say. Most will vilify the muttawa but do what they say.
It's not like there are a million muttawa. The last figure I saw was around 10,000. Riyadh has something like 8 million people. So it's not as if the muttawa are lurking on every street corner with a stick ready to beat people (the sticks are long gone and there are way too many street corners). They don't hit you anymore. They have to have a policeman to "arrest" you. They aren't allowed to arrest a woman by themselves--in fact from what I understand a woman can't be arrested unless the husband or a male relative is there and agrees. And if you talk back to the muttawa they tend to back down--especially if you are Western (but I'm not ready to try that just yet). Their "power" is slipping and they know it--maybe that's why they look so mad.
It's just another part of the adventure of being here. At least he said "Please."
Friday, August 8, 2008
Internet
The internet. We all use it. We all love it. Coming from the US I'm used to high-speed on all the time internet. Not here. At least not at the Jadawel Compound.
When I first arrived I was under the illusion that I would have high-speed on all the time US internet. The reality was I had four choices:
dial-up
Wireless
DSL
Satellite
I wanted DSL but the compound told me I would have to sign up and then wait at least 6 months. Nobody liked the wireless and the Satellite--well that's expensive in the begining and it wasn't getting rave reviews either. So I chose dial up.
It works. But if I want to listen to the music on the Liddell blog I can't. If I want to watch the Britney Spears "Ice" video--I can't (well I can but it will take hours to download). But I've learned to live within the dial up.
When Laurie got here she was not happy with dial up. So we decided to explore Mobily wireless. The webpage makes it sound awesome and we have a tower righ outside the compound. So we went and paid our 1200SR. We got a USB and one month of wireless (this was on 28 July--the month was for July--we found that out afterwards). We were excited. Hey look at that spike. Wow we're on. And then--wow look how that spike has fallen. Hey we're not on. Hey I still can't listen to the music on the Liddell's blog.
I went back and talked to customer service. He assured me that they would boost the power--just give them five days maximum--inshallah--and everything would be working fine. We gave them five days. Then we went back again.
This time I spoke to another very nice desert warrior--they really are nice--he took my usb and plugged in--wow it was working great--but it's the Mobily office so of course it's going to work great. I told him I would pay extra if it worked like that at the compound. I filled out another sheet of paper with our info to include directions on how to get here. The nice man said to give them 24 hours.
We got home and it was humming. Doing really well (I should have gone to the Liddell blog--I did listen to "Hey Eugene" by Pink Martini--well I had to download it from youtube and it took 15 minutes for a 3 minute song). Today is Friday--nothing. It's been a flat line. I'm using dial-up.
Our neighbors have SATNET1 and they like it. But one of the guys at the lunch table had SATNET 2 and he was furious with it and had it taken out after 5 days and is back with the compound DSL (he's been here for 7 years--the waiting list didn't exist when DSL was first offered).
So what to do? We're going to cancel Mobily--it just isn't working--even though the desert warriors have been very very nice. We're going to call about SATNET 2 and have them come out and give us the sales pitch.
Most of the Saudis I know have Mobily or SATNET and they love it. However, they live in the city--we live in the outskirts (until about 4 years ago this was the country--but now houses everywhere--Riyadh is growing like crazy).
The driving, prayer time, inshallahs--that doesn't really make me crazy. But not having internet--come on--hire a US company and get the infrastructure for the entire country--like the Mobily commercials promise.
For you all in the US enjoy the high-speed on all the time internet. I do envy you all for having that. But have you all every had TGI Fridays in Saudi where the entire staff is Phillipino and you get to close the curtains in your booth (so the women can take off the abayya, head scraf and veil)--very entertaining.
When I first arrived I was under the illusion that I would have high-speed on all the time US internet. The reality was I had four choices:
dial-up
Wireless
DSL
Satellite
I wanted DSL but the compound told me I would have to sign up and then wait at least 6 months. Nobody liked the wireless and the Satellite--well that's expensive in the begining and it wasn't getting rave reviews either. So I chose dial up.
It works. But if I want to listen to the music on the Liddell blog I can't. If I want to watch the Britney Spears "Ice" video--I can't (well I can but it will take hours to download). But I've learned to live within the dial up.
When Laurie got here she was not happy with dial up. So we decided to explore Mobily wireless. The webpage makes it sound awesome and we have a tower righ outside the compound. So we went and paid our 1200SR. We got a USB and one month of wireless (this was on 28 July--the month was for July--we found that out afterwards). We were excited. Hey look at that spike. Wow we're on. And then--wow look how that spike has fallen. Hey we're not on. Hey I still can't listen to the music on the Liddell's blog.
I went back and talked to customer service. He assured me that they would boost the power--just give them five days maximum--inshallah--and everything would be working fine. We gave them five days. Then we went back again.
This time I spoke to another very nice desert warrior--they really are nice--he took my usb and plugged in--wow it was working great--but it's the Mobily office so of course it's going to work great. I told him I would pay extra if it worked like that at the compound. I filled out another sheet of paper with our info to include directions on how to get here. The nice man said to give them 24 hours.
We got home and it was humming. Doing really well (I should have gone to the Liddell blog--I did listen to "Hey Eugene" by Pink Martini--well I had to download it from youtube and it took 15 minutes for a 3 minute song). Today is Friday--nothing. It's been a flat line. I'm using dial-up.
Our neighbors have SATNET1 and they like it. But one of the guys at the lunch table had SATNET 2 and he was furious with it and had it taken out after 5 days and is back with the compound DSL (he's been here for 7 years--the waiting list didn't exist when DSL was first offered).
So what to do? We're going to cancel Mobily--it just isn't working--even though the desert warriors have been very very nice. We're going to call about SATNET 2 and have them come out and give us the sales pitch.
Most of the Saudis I know have Mobily or SATNET and they love it. However, they live in the city--we live in the outskirts (until about 4 years ago this was the country--but now houses everywhere--Riyadh is growing like crazy).
The driving, prayer time, inshallahs--that doesn't really make me crazy. But not having internet--come on--hire a US company and get the infrastructure for the entire country--like the Mobily commercials promise.
For you all in the US enjoy the high-speed on all the time internet. I do envy you all for having that. But have you all every had TGI Fridays in Saudi where the entire staff is Phillipino and you get to close the curtains in your booth (so the women can take off the abayya, head scraf and veil)--very entertaining.
Friday, August 1, 2008
At Last
Finally, Laurie and Timmie are here in the KSA. It only took 3 months—and that was mainly because Laurie wanted to attend her brother’s wedding which didn’t take place until 19 July. Laurie and Timmie arrived on 27 July—six days after getting their visas.
I asked for the day off and General Faisal said of course I could have Sunday off to pick up and be with my family. Saturday after work I was busy buying all the last minute stuff—at three different stores. I made sure to buy a cake—the most delish are at Danuabe and I bought a chocolate cake filled with chocolate mousse—so delish! I hardly slept that night.
I wake up on Sunday morning making sure the house looked good—it did. I’m ready to go to the airport. The compound provided a driver. He picked me up at 0845—the plane was scheduled to land at 0900 and it takes 20 – 30 minutes to get to the airport—I was a little anxious. We got to the airport in plenty of time and the plane was landing as we were parking—it was 6 minutes late.
I’m standing at Terminal 2 with the abayaa and scarf for Laurie. The first class people are coming thru the doors—I’ve noticed that first class people don’t seem to have luggage or maybe somebody else picks it up for them. The pilot comes through the door. No Laurie or Timmie.
Zidan calls me and asks if everything is going well. I say yes. He tells me that if I have any problems to call him and he’ll translate or talk to the person giving me a hard time—Z is awesome.
Lenny calls me. I tell him things are going fine. He tells me to give the guards a sob story—my wife and habibi are here—first time—I need to help my wife—etc.. I say ok. I wait 5 more minutes—still no Laurie or Timmie.
I take a deep breath and go to the military guard. Tell him my sob story—my wife, I have her abayaa, first time in country, need help with luggage, my habibi. He looks at me. No expression. I’m ready to show him my military badge. Then he waves his hand toward the door. I took that as a “yes” and went thru the door.
The place is full of people waiting for their luggage. I scan the crowd of black robes. No luck—has Laurie changed that much. Then I start looking for a red-hair boy. Nothing. Did they miss the flight? Are they being questioned? Did something happen? Then I look at the immigration area—no one. Wait. There’s one lady in black with a grey scarf and there’s a little boy with red hair—that HAS to be them. But now there’s another guard.
So, I give the same sob story. This guard is very nice. Smiles and points the way. I smile back and thank him. There’s my family. Laurie is filling out the sheet of paper that no one will look at—they didn’t look at mine. Timmie is sitting on the chair looking very unhappy. “Hey boy.” He looks up—a big smile and he runs to me. I ALMOST started to cry. My eyes did get teary. Laurie looks up and looks relived. She finishes the paperwork.
We pick up the carry-on and go to the passport area. The computers are down. We wait and wait—it must have been 20 minutes. Finally the computers come back up and Laurie and Timmie are processed. Now for the luggage.
The airport has workers that get the luggage for you. Laurie points out the luggage. The guy gets it and puts it on the cart. We go through security. Come out the doors. The driver of the compound is waiting. He takes the luggage and loads it in the van while Laurie, Timmie and I go and exchange the US dollars for Saudi riyals (SR). Then we go and get in the van.
We arrive at the villa. Both are impressed with the size. Timmie is impressed with the pool. I keep them up until noon. Then Timmie crashes. Laurie can’t sleep until she puts all of stuff away and is “organized.” I wake them at 4 to go see some sites. It’s like taking zombies with me—their eyes are glazed over and I’m not sure they were paying attention. But the main thing—at last they’re here!
I asked for the day off and General Faisal said of course I could have Sunday off to pick up and be with my family. Saturday after work I was busy buying all the last minute stuff—at three different stores. I made sure to buy a cake—the most delish are at Danuabe and I bought a chocolate cake filled with chocolate mousse—so delish! I hardly slept that night.
I wake up on Sunday morning making sure the house looked good—it did. I’m ready to go to the airport. The compound provided a driver. He picked me up at 0845—the plane was scheduled to land at 0900 and it takes 20 – 30 minutes to get to the airport—I was a little anxious. We got to the airport in plenty of time and the plane was landing as we were parking—it was 6 minutes late.
I’m standing at Terminal 2 with the abayaa and scarf for Laurie. The first class people are coming thru the doors—I’ve noticed that first class people don’t seem to have luggage or maybe somebody else picks it up for them. The pilot comes through the door. No Laurie or Timmie.
Zidan calls me and asks if everything is going well. I say yes. He tells me that if I have any problems to call him and he’ll translate or talk to the person giving me a hard time—Z is awesome.
Lenny calls me. I tell him things are going fine. He tells me to give the guards a sob story—my wife and habibi are here—first time—I need to help my wife—etc.. I say ok. I wait 5 more minutes—still no Laurie or Timmie.
I take a deep breath and go to the military guard. Tell him my sob story—my wife, I have her abayaa, first time in country, need help with luggage, my habibi. He looks at me. No expression. I’m ready to show him my military badge. Then he waves his hand toward the door. I took that as a “yes” and went thru the door.
The place is full of people waiting for their luggage. I scan the crowd of black robes. No luck—has Laurie changed that much. Then I start looking for a red-hair boy. Nothing. Did they miss the flight? Are they being questioned? Did something happen? Then I look at the immigration area—no one. Wait. There’s one lady in black with a grey scarf and there’s a little boy with red hair—that HAS to be them. But now there’s another guard.
So, I give the same sob story. This guard is very nice. Smiles and points the way. I smile back and thank him. There’s my family. Laurie is filling out the sheet of paper that no one will look at—they didn’t look at mine. Timmie is sitting on the chair looking very unhappy. “Hey boy.” He looks up—a big smile and he runs to me. I ALMOST started to cry. My eyes did get teary. Laurie looks up and looks relived. She finishes the paperwork.
We pick up the carry-on and go to the passport area. The computers are down. We wait and wait—it must have been 20 minutes. Finally the computers come back up and Laurie and Timmie are processed. Now for the luggage.
The airport has workers that get the luggage for you. Laurie points out the luggage. The guy gets it and puts it on the cart. We go through security. Come out the doors. The driver of the compound is waiting. He takes the luggage and loads it in the van while Laurie, Timmie and I go and exchange the US dollars for Saudi riyals (SR). Then we go and get in the van.
We arrive at the villa. Both are impressed with the size. Timmie is impressed with the pool. I keep them up until noon. Then Timmie crashes. Laurie can’t sleep until she puts all of stuff away and is “organized.” I wake them at 4 to go see some sites. It’s like taking zombies with me—their eyes are glazed over and I’m not sure they were paying attention. But the main thing—at last they’re here!
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Yes I'm still fascinated
You all probably think that nothing adventurous has been happening lately. Every day here is an adventure. Right now the adventure is the downstairs a/c in my villa. It’s been working ok. But lately it seems warmer downstairs than upstairs—they’re on separate systems. This morning when I came downstairs the a/c showed 77 and when I came home from work it said 81—and that’s just too hot. So I called maintenance and now I’m waiting. Hopefully they’ll be here soon because I don’t want to wait all day for them. I’ve been waiting for almost 30 minutes now and no phone call back.
Driving here is always an adventure. You’re never sure what’s going to happen next—will they stay in their lane, drift to the left (that seems to be most common), use their signals, etc.. I’m always happy when I arrive at my destinations with no incident. But when there is an incident it creates all sorts of problems.
Here when there’s an accident you don’t pull over—you just stay in that lane blocking everyone until the police arrive and authorizes you to move. I find that interesting. In the States we’re so used to moving our cars so we’re out of the way.
I’m still fascinated with this country—the people and culture. The men still fascinate me with what they wear. This is 2008 so why don’t more of them wear jeans? I understand the thobe has been around for centuries—but so were powdered wigs and we men gave those up in the US. The thobe looks comfortable but I noticed that there are limitations to it such as running. You can’t run in it unless you hike it up over your knees. But I know it’s hard to break tradition and culture.
The women wearing the abayaa’s fascinate me. I often wonder what they’re wearing under all that black. Sometimes you catch a glimpse of jeans, tennis shoes or high heels. When I walk behind them it reminds me of Darth Vader’s cape billowing in the breeze. And the escalators have warning signs reminding women not to let their abayaa’s get caught—that’s fascinating.
I’m still fascinated that there is so much modern technology here. They’re comfortable using thumb drives and all the features on their mobiles. I’m still getting used to carrying a mobile. I got brave and used the calendar and the schedule feature—now let’s see what happens on Saturday.
I love my job. Lately I’m been training two guys for 7-level—Gazi and Khalid. Gazi is very business-he does the pleasantry like he’s been taught—but really he just wants to get down to business. Khalid on the other hand likes to talk, smile and joke. He always seems genuinely happy to see me. Shakes my hand and then holds if for just a little longer—a sign of friendship. Khalid is getting married in about 9 days. His sister found his wife for him. That fascinates me.
Here the mother or sister finds the wife for the son or brother. I’m not sure what happens if you have no mother of sister—maybe an aunt or cousin finds the wife. Khalid’s sister is a teacher and his wife to be is a teacher. I’m not sure if he’s even seen her. That fascinates me too. I’d want to know what the woman I was marrying looked like. Instead of hearing “She has a sweet spirit” or “She has a nice personality”—we all know what both of those statements mean.
I am fascinated, and irritated, about how long some of the paperwork takes. Are US government agencies like this when dealing with foreigners? I hope not. It took 5 weeks for my work permit. And now I’ve been waiting two weeks for Laurie and Timmie’s paperwork to get approved for a visa—all the paperwork is still in this country. They don’t even do the visa here. That paperwork has to be sent to the US to a visa company that contacts the Saudi Embassy and they stamp and give the visa. When I call my company the guys are very nice but I need the paperwork—maybe tomorrow or the end of this week—inshallah. I know things are in God’s hands but here on Earth God doesn’t come down and stamp the paperwork—that’s been delegated to some man.
I’m fascinated by prayer 5 times a day. Mandatory prayer—not that everyone goes (and that’s interesting to me). 5 times a day you hear the call to prayer no matter where you are. And if people don’t go into the mosque they can pray wherever they are as long as they face Mekkah. I want to watch when they’re praying but then I feel like I’m intruding. The ceremony is touching—throwing away your sins and Earthly cares and then kneeling and praying.
There are so many things that are fascinating to me. If you’re a people watcher this place is awesome. If you’re trying to understand the Middle East then you need to live in it. I think I’m beginning to understand them. A Saudi told me—“Tim I love you guys but I can’t be seen as a Western puppet.” That really said it all to me. The Saudi government has the same issue—they love the US but can’t be seen as its puppet (which is maybe why they just signed some deal with Russia for military equipment. Now they’ll have Russian, French, British and US military equipment.).
I’m sure there’s more I could write. But right now I’m a little depressed—a little down. I’m still waiting for that visa paperwork for my family. The General gets back on Monday and he said that if something doesn’t happen soon then I need to tell him. Inshallah something will happen before he gets back--but if not he might have to use his wasta--and that's another one of the reasons this place fascinates me.
Driving here is always an adventure. You’re never sure what’s going to happen next—will they stay in their lane, drift to the left (that seems to be most common), use their signals, etc.. I’m always happy when I arrive at my destinations with no incident. But when there is an incident it creates all sorts of problems.
Here when there’s an accident you don’t pull over—you just stay in that lane blocking everyone until the police arrive and authorizes you to move. I find that interesting. In the States we’re so used to moving our cars so we’re out of the way.
I’m still fascinated with this country—the people and culture. The men still fascinate me with what they wear. This is 2008 so why don’t more of them wear jeans? I understand the thobe has been around for centuries—but so were powdered wigs and we men gave those up in the US. The thobe looks comfortable but I noticed that there are limitations to it such as running. You can’t run in it unless you hike it up over your knees. But I know it’s hard to break tradition and culture.
The women wearing the abayaa’s fascinate me. I often wonder what they’re wearing under all that black. Sometimes you catch a glimpse of jeans, tennis shoes or high heels. When I walk behind them it reminds me of Darth Vader’s cape billowing in the breeze. And the escalators have warning signs reminding women not to let their abayaa’s get caught—that’s fascinating.
I’m still fascinated that there is so much modern technology here. They’re comfortable using thumb drives and all the features on their mobiles. I’m still getting used to carrying a mobile. I got brave and used the calendar and the schedule feature—now let’s see what happens on Saturday.
I love my job. Lately I’m been training two guys for 7-level—Gazi and Khalid. Gazi is very business-he does the pleasantry like he’s been taught—but really he just wants to get down to business. Khalid on the other hand likes to talk, smile and joke. He always seems genuinely happy to see me. Shakes my hand and then holds if for just a little longer—a sign of friendship. Khalid is getting married in about 9 days. His sister found his wife for him. That fascinates me.
Here the mother or sister finds the wife for the son or brother. I’m not sure what happens if you have no mother of sister—maybe an aunt or cousin finds the wife. Khalid’s sister is a teacher and his wife to be is a teacher. I’m not sure if he’s even seen her. That fascinates me too. I’d want to know what the woman I was marrying looked like. Instead of hearing “She has a sweet spirit” or “She has a nice personality”—we all know what both of those statements mean.
I am fascinated, and irritated, about how long some of the paperwork takes. Are US government agencies like this when dealing with foreigners? I hope not. It took 5 weeks for my work permit. And now I’ve been waiting two weeks for Laurie and Timmie’s paperwork to get approved for a visa—all the paperwork is still in this country. They don’t even do the visa here. That paperwork has to be sent to the US to a visa company that contacts the Saudi Embassy and they stamp and give the visa. When I call my company the guys are very nice but I need the paperwork—maybe tomorrow or the end of this week—inshallah. I know things are in God’s hands but here on Earth God doesn’t come down and stamp the paperwork—that’s been delegated to some man.
I’m fascinated by prayer 5 times a day. Mandatory prayer—not that everyone goes (and that’s interesting to me). 5 times a day you hear the call to prayer no matter where you are. And if people don’t go into the mosque they can pray wherever they are as long as they face Mekkah. I want to watch when they’re praying but then I feel like I’m intruding. The ceremony is touching—throwing away your sins and Earthly cares and then kneeling and praying.
There are so many things that are fascinating to me. If you’re a people watcher this place is awesome. If you’re trying to understand the Middle East then you need to live in it. I think I’m beginning to understand them. A Saudi told me—“Tim I love you guys but I can’t be seen as a Western puppet.” That really said it all to me. The Saudi government has the same issue—they love the US but can’t be seen as its puppet (which is maybe why they just signed some deal with Russia for military equipment. Now they’ll have Russian, French, British and US military equipment.).
I’m sure there’s more I could write. But right now I’m a little depressed—a little down. I’m still waiting for that visa paperwork for my family. The General gets back on Monday and he said that if something doesn’t happen soon then I need to tell him. Inshallah something will happen before he gets back--but if not he might have to use his wasta--and that's another one of the reasons this place fascinates me.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Chicken and rice--yum!
I've written before (maybe in an e-mail--I just know I've written about it) about the lunch room and all we have is rice and chicken or fish and rice--sometimes we have spaghetti (that's a big treat for us!). We expats know that the contractor must be making some good money since he's feeding us cheap--we do pay--it's not free. The expats talk about the days of French fries and hamburgers--those days are long gone.
Well I've been working in the basement a lot lately--researching on the internet for the General. There's a young airman--Khalid--that really likes me and I really like him. Khalid always has a smile and handshake and will help me with anything I ask.
I've been complaining about the lunch room food so Khalid decided he wanted to take "Mr. Tim" out to get me some seafood. I thought that was nice of him--making sure his American is fed good (I'm not losing any weight--there's plenty to eat). So today was the day Khalid took me to lunch.
Before we left I asked him if Sultan could go also--Sultan is kind of the boss for the linguist--I really like all the linguist--plus Sultan knows Rashed. Sultan came with us.
In the car Khalid and Sultan are talking--I hear my name--Khalid is driving around. I ask Khalid what they are talking about.
"Sultan said that we should go to this Jordanian restaurant and have chicken and rice. But I told Sultan that you are tired of chicken and rice."
"Well if Sultan says it's good then we should go."
"Mr. Tim are you sure? You said you were tired of rice."
"Khalid I'm sure. Sultan this is good?"
"Yes very very nice and good--you will like it."
We get there. It's nothing fancy. Only one table is empty. The waiter brings a menu--no pictures and no English. Sultan explains each dish--there are 6 of them. I ask him what he's going to have--the chicken stiffed with rice. So I agree to that too--in fact we all have the same.
Then they bring out soup and salad. The soup--wow--it was the best soup I've had in a long time--really really delish. The salad looked so nice with the green of the lettuce and the deep red tomatoes.--and it had a dash of fresh mint--yum.
We get our chicken and rice. The plate is full of white rice and almonds. The chicken was cooked with cinnamon and I don't know what else--but it was stuffed with the most delish rice. I ate it all. I couldn't stop eating. It really was a great meal. Khalid was very happy that I liked it. I gave it my two thumbs up.
As we got ready to leave I asked Khalid how much I owed.
"No Mr. Tim I paid. In our country when you take a friend out for the first time you pay." I'm really touched by this hospitality. BUT I told him and Sultan that I was paying next time and they said "No problem."
The restaurant--men only--no family section. But they do home delivery--everybody does home delivery. I'm sitting here hours later and I can still smell and taste this chicken and rice--YUM!
Well I've been working in the basement a lot lately--researching on the internet for the General. There's a young airman--Khalid--that really likes me and I really like him. Khalid always has a smile and handshake and will help me with anything I ask.
I've been complaining about the lunch room food so Khalid decided he wanted to take "Mr. Tim" out to get me some seafood. I thought that was nice of him--making sure his American is fed good (I'm not losing any weight--there's plenty to eat). So today was the day Khalid took me to lunch.
Before we left I asked him if Sultan could go also--Sultan is kind of the boss for the linguist--I really like all the linguist--plus Sultan knows Rashed. Sultan came with us.
In the car Khalid and Sultan are talking--I hear my name--Khalid is driving around. I ask Khalid what they are talking about.
"Sultan said that we should go to this Jordanian restaurant and have chicken and rice. But I told Sultan that you are tired of chicken and rice."
"Well if Sultan says it's good then we should go."
"Mr. Tim are you sure? You said you were tired of rice."
"Khalid I'm sure. Sultan this is good?"
"Yes very very nice and good--you will like it."
We get there. It's nothing fancy. Only one table is empty. The waiter brings a menu--no pictures and no English. Sultan explains each dish--there are 6 of them. I ask him what he's going to have--the chicken stiffed with rice. So I agree to that too--in fact we all have the same.
Then they bring out soup and salad. The soup--wow--it was the best soup I've had in a long time--really really delish. The salad looked so nice with the green of the lettuce and the deep red tomatoes.--and it had a dash of fresh mint--yum.
We get our chicken and rice. The plate is full of white rice and almonds. The chicken was cooked with cinnamon and I don't know what else--but it was stuffed with the most delish rice. I ate it all. I couldn't stop eating. It really was a great meal. Khalid was very happy that I liked it. I gave it my two thumbs up.
As we got ready to leave I asked Khalid how much I owed.
"No Mr. Tim I paid. In our country when you take a friend out for the first time you pay." I'm really touched by this hospitality. BUT I told him and Sultan that I was paying next time and they said "No problem."
The restaurant--men only--no family section. But they do home delivery--everybody does home delivery. I'm sitting here hours later and I can still smell and taste this chicken and rice--YUM!
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Old Riyadh
Yesterday--Friday--Rashed called me at 4 pm "Timothy I will be there to pick you up in 20 minutes." I had to hurry to get ready. I knew that Rashed wanted to show me around--and I was excited.
Rashed is a young handsome Saudi. He works at AEC. Speaks beautiful English and is just awesome. Rashed is going to the University to become a stock broker--he's very smart. He's been to the US at least twice and Canada at least once.
So Rashed arrives. I get in the car and off we go. I feel perfectly safe with him driving--after all this is country.
Rashed takes me to the older part of Riyadh. Shows me areas that I'm sure most Westerners don't get to see. He takes me to the "original malls"--the part of town where you still bargain for what you're buying.
In Saudi you will smell this kind of sick sweet burning smell in offices, homes or other places. I'm not sure what it's all called but they burn this wood--which gives off the kind of sweet smell--and you're supposed to inhale it--this is normally done when you're leaving so you remember the good times you had.
Rashed took me to see this old man. The man was 100 if he was a day. Old and dark--but with a spark in him--he seemed to enjoy life. Rashed spoke to him in Arabic and mentioned that I was American. The man turned to me smiling and said "How are you today?"
"I'm fine how are you?" He grips my hand.
"I am doing very well. Welcome to Saudi."
He said all this and then chatted some more to me in the most beautiful English--hardly an accent. He was very animated and I really enjoyed being in shop. By the way the wood is very $$$$. A kilo can cost over $1,000--yes dollars.
Off we went with Rashed as the tour guide. I saw guys getting fitted for a wedding--they wear a special "cloak" over the thobe and the cloak is very $$--the gold thread used to be real gold--now it's just thread. It's the cloak you'll see the King wear. It usually means that one has authority or at least money. But everyday guys have them made for special occasions such as a wedding.
I saw some awesome and manly headresses. White and hand stitched--I bought one for 120SR. It's so awesome and warrior looking. Rashed asked if I wanted to wear it. I told him not yet. He smiled and said that when I get a thobe he would show me how to wear it all properly.
More exploring. Off to the gold market. Very nice--but I wanted to see some jewels. Off we went. Again very nice. But I'll save some money before I go there again.
Then Rashed took me to a place I love going--the rug market. He took me to a certain store. The rugs! Just the smell and I thought I was in heaven. I love going in and talking to the dealers. I don't know anything about rugs--just that I like them and that a good dealer is willing to discuss the history of rugs with you.
13 years ago when I was TDY here in Saudi I used to visit a certain rug shop. The old man and I would sit around and he would chat about rugs, politics and religion. He would show me expensive rugs--I remember one for $5,000. I loved the smell of the store and his stories and went to his store as often as I could. I could only afford a tablecloth and bought one. Laurie and I use it even today--it's exotic and reminds me of Saudi. I may have bought the prayer rugs there too--but I can't remember for sure.
Today I earn a little more than I did as a Staff Sergeant--just a little more. I fell in love with a beautiful red runner. It feels so soft. The red is so rich. The blue is a gorgeous blue. The design is unusual. The man told me about the tribe that makes the rugs. Where the rugs come from. And on and on. I could have stayed for hours. He kept unrolling rugs and showing them to us. I finally asked the price of the red runner. Rashed told him to give "us" the best price. He gave a price--2,500SR. Too much I said. Another price. I told him this was my first rug--Rashed smiled at the man and said "Please give us your best price." The man said $500--ok--1875SR. I told him I could only buy it if he took credit cards. He did.
The first time the credit card machine timed out. The second time they kept it in Arabic and it went through--maybe it didn't understand English. He packed the rug up. Then he wrote the legend about the rug. The red is from pomegranate and the blue from saffron. He wrote what tribe made the rug and what country they are from.
Rashed carried the bag to the car. I was excited and nervous--maybe I paid too much--maybe Laurie won't like it--maybe it will fall apart. But wow--I bought my first rug.
Then we went to eat. I decided on Chinese. In a way I was hoping for a buffet--but no such luck. However the food was delish and Rashed paid--even though I protested and told him it was my treat for him being such a great tour guide. But he insisted on paying.
Rashed brought me home--6 hours later. What a GREAT day! I'm so glad that there are awesome men here willing to show me around and that they're proud of their culture and their country.
I waved good-bye to Rashed. Closed the door. Unpacked the rug and put it in the front hall. It's not as long as I wanted--but it looks awesome. It's so Middle East. It's so soft. I don't even want to walk on it. The red--such a beautiful red. The blues--very nice. I can't wait to buy another one--next time maybe a larger one—but with the help of Laurie and Timmie. This could be a habit more expensive than buying jewelry. The man at the shop told me that I could sell this runner for $2,000 - 3,000. Wow! Maybe Laurie and I should buy some and then bring them back next year and sell them. I can't wait to go back to the shop and talk to the man and learn more about handmade rugs.
For all you wanting to see pictures I did take some with my new mobile phone. I'll learn how to send them to Laurie so she can post them--or maybe I should learn how to do that too.
Rashed is a young handsome Saudi. He works at AEC. Speaks beautiful English and is just awesome. Rashed is going to the University to become a stock broker--he's very smart. He's been to the US at least twice and Canada at least once.
So Rashed arrives. I get in the car and off we go. I feel perfectly safe with him driving--after all this is country.
Rashed takes me to the older part of Riyadh. Shows me areas that I'm sure most Westerners don't get to see. He takes me to the "original malls"--the part of town where you still bargain for what you're buying.
In Saudi you will smell this kind of sick sweet burning smell in offices, homes or other places. I'm not sure what it's all called but they burn this wood--which gives off the kind of sweet smell--and you're supposed to inhale it--this is normally done when you're leaving so you remember the good times you had.
Rashed took me to see this old man. The man was 100 if he was a day. Old and dark--but with a spark in him--he seemed to enjoy life. Rashed spoke to him in Arabic and mentioned that I was American. The man turned to me smiling and said "How are you today?"
"I'm fine how are you?" He grips my hand.
"I am doing very well. Welcome to Saudi."
He said all this and then chatted some more to me in the most beautiful English--hardly an accent. He was very animated and I really enjoyed being in shop. By the way the wood is very $$$$. A kilo can cost over $1,000--yes dollars.
Off we went with Rashed as the tour guide. I saw guys getting fitted for a wedding--they wear a special "cloak" over the thobe and the cloak is very $$--the gold thread used to be real gold--now it's just thread. It's the cloak you'll see the King wear. It usually means that one has authority or at least money. But everyday guys have them made for special occasions such as a wedding.
I saw some awesome and manly headresses. White and hand stitched--I bought one for 120SR. It's so awesome and warrior looking. Rashed asked if I wanted to wear it. I told him not yet. He smiled and said that when I get a thobe he would show me how to wear it all properly.
More exploring. Off to the gold market. Very nice--but I wanted to see some jewels. Off we went. Again very nice. But I'll save some money before I go there again.
Then Rashed took me to a place I love going--the rug market. He took me to a certain store. The rugs! Just the smell and I thought I was in heaven. I love going in and talking to the dealers. I don't know anything about rugs--just that I like them and that a good dealer is willing to discuss the history of rugs with you.
13 years ago when I was TDY here in Saudi I used to visit a certain rug shop. The old man and I would sit around and he would chat about rugs, politics and religion. He would show me expensive rugs--I remember one for $5,000. I loved the smell of the store and his stories and went to his store as often as I could. I could only afford a tablecloth and bought one. Laurie and I use it even today--it's exotic and reminds me of Saudi. I may have bought the prayer rugs there too--but I can't remember for sure.
Today I earn a little more than I did as a Staff Sergeant--just a little more. I fell in love with a beautiful red runner. It feels so soft. The red is so rich. The blue is a gorgeous blue. The design is unusual. The man told me about the tribe that makes the rugs. Where the rugs come from. And on and on. I could have stayed for hours. He kept unrolling rugs and showing them to us. I finally asked the price of the red runner. Rashed told him to give "us" the best price. He gave a price--2,500SR. Too much I said. Another price. I told him this was my first rug--Rashed smiled at the man and said "Please give us your best price." The man said $500--ok--1875SR. I told him I could only buy it if he took credit cards. He did.
The first time the credit card machine timed out. The second time they kept it in Arabic and it went through--maybe it didn't understand English. He packed the rug up. Then he wrote the legend about the rug. The red is from pomegranate and the blue from saffron. He wrote what tribe made the rug and what country they are from.
Rashed carried the bag to the car. I was excited and nervous--maybe I paid too much--maybe Laurie won't like it--maybe it will fall apart. But wow--I bought my first rug.
Then we went to eat. I decided on Chinese. In a way I was hoping for a buffet--but no such luck. However the food was delish and Rashed paid--even though I protested and told him it was my treat for him being such a great tour guide. But he insisted on paying.
Rashed brought me home--6 hours later. What a GREAT day! I'm so glad that there are awesome men here willing to show me around and that they're proud of their culture and their country.
I waved good-bye to Rashed. Closed the door. Unpacked the rug and put it in the front hall. It's not as long as I wanted--but it looks awesome. It's so Middle East. It's so soft. I don't even want to walk on it. The red--such a beautiful red. The blues--very nice. I can't wait to buy another one--next time maybe a larger one—but with the help of Laurie and Timmie. This could be a habit more expensive than buying jewelry. The man at the shop told me that I could sell this runner for $2,000 - 3,000. Wow! Maybe Laurie and I should buy some and then bring them back next year and sell them. I can't wait to go back to the shop and talk to the man and learn more about handmade rugs.
For all you wanting to see pictures I did take some with my new mobile phone. I'll learn how to send them to Laurie so she can post them--or maybe I should learn how to do that too.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Sandstorms
For the past three days there have been sandstorms. This isn't beach sand--it's Saudi desert sand. Visibility was low and at times the sand blocked some of the sun--but it was still hot.
Our pool was so dirty looking because the pump couldn't keep up with all the sand. I cleaned the filter out three times just to try to keep the pool somewhat clean. That worked for a while.
Driving around in a sandstorm is an experience--or adventure. I would turn on my car lights so others could see me. At times the cars ahead of were "invisible"--like when it rains hard and you can't see too far ahead. But I still needed to wear my sunglasses because of the sun's rays--not a lot of sunshine but the rays still hurt my eyes. I wear sunglasses constantly over here--they're a must have item.
They gave the workers on the compound surgical masks to wear. Poor guys are out in this stuff all day--security and gardeners. I really do feel sorry for them. But they have a good attitude--and--inshallah--the storm will be over soon.
Well the storm is over. Today it's blue skies--full of sunshine--and hot. And the pool looks great. The water is nice a blue looking and looks inviting--so inviting that I swam today. In fact I was outside for almost two hours today--swimming, hosing down the back, and just laying out in the sun. Ahhh it felt great.
Our pool was so dirty looking because the pump couldn't keep up with all the sand. I cleaned the filter out three times just to try to keep the pool somewhat clean. That worked for a while.
Driving around in a sandstorm is an experience--or adventure. I would turn on my car lights so others could see me. At times the cars ahead of were "invisible"--like when it rains hard and you can't see too far ahead. But I still needed to wear my sunglasses because of the sun's rays--not a lot of sunshine but the rays still hurt my eyes. I wear sunglasses constantly over here--they're a must have item.
They gave the workers on the compound surgical masks to wear. Poor guys are out in this stuff all day--security and gardeners. I really do feel sorry for them. But they have a good attitude--and--inshallah--the storm will be over soon.
Well the storm is over. Today it's blue skies--full of sunshine--and hot. And the pool looks great. The water is nice a blue looking and looks inviting--so inviting that I swam today. In fact I was outside for almost two hours today--swimming, hosing down the back, and just laying out in the sun. Ahhh it felt great.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Fill it up
I like saying that when I pull into a gas station--"Fill it up." The attendants are so nice and courteous--washing your windows, checking under the hood. What am I saying and what century am I thinking of. I'm not that old but I do remember those days. I also remember the first time Grandma Dukes got out of the car and pumped her own gas. And I remember when I discovered you could use your credit card at the pump and pay for gas--you never had to go inside and see the cashier (I also remember having discovered this while living in Long Beach CA and then Laurie and I were in GA and I was irritated that Zebulon hadn't caught on to this great idea--you actually had to go inside and pay--but that was years ago and Zebulon is now part of the late 20th century).
Today I had to get gas in the car--and of course it was a first for me. I had picked out what gas station I wanted to go to--one that has pink lights at night which I think is funny--it reminds me of Vegas. So I pull in. The guys motion me to the pump. I pull the gas lever inside the car and roll down the window. Smiles. How are you. Handshakes.
They fill up the car, wash the windows, bring me some water and a box of kleenex (I'm not sure who marketed the kleenex but kleenex are everywhere--cars, restaurants, bathrooms, offices, etc..). I give the guys a tip--a little over a dollar each. More smiles and off I go.
I liked it. I liked pulling up and having someone pump the gas and wash the windows. I liked the water and box of kleenex. I liked the kind greeting and smile.
By the way the bill came to 19SR for 42 liters. I know that 19SR is a little over $5--to fill up the car. Wow! Next time I say "Fill it up" it'll be with a bigger smile (the company pays for 100SR a month--awesome).
Today I had to get gas in the car--and of course it was a first for me. I had picked out what gas station I wanted to go to--one that has pink lights at night which I think is funny--it reminds me of Vegas. So I pull in. The guys motion me to the pump. I pull the gas lever inside the car and roll down the window. Smiles. How are you. Handshakes.
They fill up the car, wash the windows, bring me some water and a box of kleenex (I'm not sure who marketed the kleenex but kleenex are everywhere--cars, restaurants, bathrooms, offices, etc..). I give the guys a tip--a little over a dollar each. More smiles and off I go.
I liked it. I liked pulling up and having someone pump the gas and wash the windows. I liked the water and box of kleenex. I liked the kind greeting and smile.
By the way the bill came to 19SR for 42 liters. I know that 19SR is a little over $5--to fill up the car. Wow! Next time I say "Fill it up" it'll be with a bigger smile (the company pays for 100SR a month--awesome).
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Driving and Cars
I can officially and legally drive in Saudi Arabia! Wow. For two weeks AEC personnel have promised me "Tim you'll get your license soon--maybe this week or next." Next week finally got here. So here's what happened.
Khalid picks Tuesday to go. He tells me to be at the office by 1000 or 1030. I arrived at 1000--the earlier the better. However, 1000 didn't really mean 1000. Khalid didn't show up until 1100 and had to fix paperwork--some it relating to our time sheets so I wasn't going to argue with that. Prayer time is at noon so Khalid said we would wait until after prayer. Finally at 1230 we left. But before leaving I had to have the usual 5 photos of myself (this place is crazy about photos) along with my iqama (work permit) and my Texas drivers license--I had them all. Khalid grabbed a green folder with papers in Arabic stamped with the official AEC stamp (they're crazy about stamps too--my time sheet has to have an office stamp on it). I found out later that the green folder is crucial to getting your license. If the folder is any other color--no license. Off we go--Khalid talking on the cell phone, smoking a cigarette (I felt like I had a smoked a cigarette by the time we arrived) and whipping in and out of traffic (he's a great driver--really). As usual no signals or mirrors were used--I think they're considered optional here.
We arrive at the building--a big pink building. In we go--Khalid is still talking on the phone. Khalid has wasta--meaning he knows people. We go to the front desk--smiles, talking, something about my folder, Khalid ignores them and we go to another room.
Up to that window. I produce my iqama and Texas license--Khalid talks--money is exchanged--a stamp on my papers. Things seem to be going well. Now to the next window.
We get to the next window. More smiles, talking, my name is mentioned--I'm a little bored so I look in this machine and see some numbers and colors. The policeman asks me to tell him the numbers--oh that's what this is for--so I do--big numbers by the way that I could have read without my glasses. Now on to the blood test.
I am a little nervous about this. I hate giving blood in the US much less in a foreign country. In I go. The older and very nice Saudi gentleman talks to Khalid and then smiles at me and says "Are you ready?" I tell him "Not really but go ahead." He smiles and chuckles. I stick my arm out and close my eyes. My finger gets pricked. Wow that was it. He squeezes some blood out puts some sort of solution and says I'm O+--which I am. The paper is stamped and more money is exchanged.
Now to the final desk. Khalid is talking he's mentioning my name--he gets a little irritated. We leave that window and go to some office that has a very serious policeman sitting at the desk. Khalid mentions his friends name. The policeman asks something then my paper is signed. Khalid tells me we're leaving. But I still don't have my license. In the car Khalid tells me the computers were down. BUT tomorrow--bukra--I'll have my license and it will only take 20 minutes.
So back to AEC on Wed morning at 0800. Abdullah takes me--Khalid is getting ready for vacation that starts on Saturday. I like Abdullah--he speaks little English but is fun to be around. Off we go listening to Arabic music, Abdullah smoking constantly, honking the horn, "Timothy look"--I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at but I smile and say "Wow" and Abdullah smiles.
We arrive at the building. Abdullah gets out of the car and fixes his headress--it looks good on him. Some Saudis outside talk to me but I don't understand anything and tell them to ask Abdullah. Come to find out they're trying to get 25SR out of us but not today.
We get into the building. I tell Abdullah what window we need to go to. He goes to window 2 instead. Lots of talking--lots of hands moving and then we go to window 1 (like I had suggested). At window 1 more talking but now there are smiles. My folder gets taken. Abdullah tells me to sit.
I sit for the next hour! Sit and sit and sit. Names are being called out and people are rushing to get the sacred drivers license. Abdullah asks me for money--I give him 200SR and he disappears--but gives me my folder and tells me when 32 is called to go to the window. 32 is never called. Finally Abdullah comes back. He takes my folder to the window and 20 minutes later I have a license. Abdullah is very proud of me--lots of smiles and "Timothy very nice."
We get in the car--Abdullah stops at an ATM and gives me back the 200 he had borrowed. I get back to AEC and then walk back to my office. Now on Saturday I'll finally be able to invite Laurie and Timmie to Saudi.
It's only about 10 miles to work. But the cars along the way--insane. The roads are modern, there are street lights, stop signs, yield signs, traffic lights and lines in the road indicating the lanes--but nobody pays attention.
3 lanes turn into 5. The red light means that at least 10 more cars can go. The yield sign--I'm not sure what it means. The stop sign means to yield.
There are something like 8 million people that live in Riyadh and I think they all have at least one car.
I drove home--with Lenny reminding me of some of the turns--now he's on vacation in the States. I almost got bumped once--but I honked and they moved back into their lane.
I drove to Jarir bookstore today--I really really like Jarir--it has computers (the Saudis love their computers, thumb drives, etc..) and upstairs lots of books (Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart are here in the Kingdom). I never really get a chance to browse with Lenny--he's not a browser. So today I drove to Jarir and back. I was rather proud of myself.
Ok back to cars. The popular makes are Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai. The popular models are Camry, LTD, Malibu and Sonata. Of course there are Mercedes (I like the S class), BMW, Porsche and I even saw a Rolls Royce. The Saudi's love a low maintenance car--which is why they like Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai--and parts for all these are easy to find in the Kingdom.
I mentioned that I'd like to get a VW Jetta. Some sighing. Some frowns. "Timothy this car requires maintenance--the parts are expensive--and only foreigners drive them." I thought the last part was funny--I am a foreigner. We we'll see what happens. Right now I have the company Toyota Corolla--not much power--to drive. Maybe next year.
At least now I have true freedom. Now I just need to figure out how to get places--because everything looks the same to me--brown with palm trees.
Oh and the photos I gave--none of them were used--some other photos of me were used. So I don't know what happened to these 5. And my blood type--remember it's O+-but somehow now it's B+--at least O is the universal donor.
Khalid picks Tuesday to go. He tells me to be at the office by 1000 or 1030. I arrived at 1000--the earlier the better. However, 1000 didn't really mean 1000. Khalid didn't show up until 1100 and had to fix paperwork--some it relating to our time sheets so I wasn't going to argue with that. Prayer time is at noon so Khalid said we would wait until after prayer. Finally at 1230 we left. But before leaving I had to have the usual 5 photos of myself (this place is crazy about photos) along with my iqama (work permit) and my Texas drivers license--I had them all. Khalid grabbed a green folder with papers in Arabic stamped with the official AEC stamp (they're crazy about stamps too--my time sheet has to have an office stamp on it). I found out later that the green folder is crucial to getting your license. If the folder is any other color--no license. Off we go--Khalid talking on the cell phone, smoking a cigarette (I felt like I had a smoked a cigarette by the time we arrived) and whipping in and out of traffic (he's a great driver--really). As usual no signals or mirrors were used--I think they're considered optional here.
We arrive at the building--a big pink building. In we go--Khalid is still talking on the phone. Khalid has wasta--meaning he knows people. We go to the front desk--smiles, talking, something about my folder, Khalid ignores them and we go to another room.
Up to that window. I produce my iqama and Texas license--Khalid talks--money is exchanged--a stamp on my papers. Things seem to be going well. Now to the next window.
We get to the next window. More smiles, talking, my name is mentioned--I'm a little bored so I look in this machine and see some numbers and colors. The policeman asks me to tell him the numbers--oh that's what this is for--so I do--big numbers by the way that I could have read without my glasses. Now on to the blood test.
I am a little nervous about this. I hate giving blood in the US much less in a foreign country. In I go. The older and very nice Saudi gentleman talks to Khalid and then smiles at me and says "Are you ready?" I tell him "Not really but go ahead." He smiles and chuckles. I stick my arm out and close my eyes. My finger gets pricked. Wow that was it. He squeezes some blood out puts some sort of solution and says I'm O+--which I am. The paper is stamped and more money is exchanged.
Now to the final desk. Khalid is talking he's mentioning my name--he gets a little irritated. We leave that window and go to some office that has a very serious policeman sitting at the desk. Khalid mentions his friends name. The policeman asks something then my paper is signed. Khalid tells me we're leaving. But I still don't have my license. In the car Khalid tells me the computers were down. BUT tomorrow--bukra--I'll have my license and it will only take 20 minutes.
So back to AEC on Wed morning at 0800. Abdullah takes me--Khalid is getting ready for vacation that starts on Saturday. I like Abdullah--he speaks little English but is fun to be around. Off we go listening to Arabic music, Abdullah smoking constantly, honking the horn, "Timothy look"--I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at but I smile and say "Wow" and Abdullah smiles.
We arrive at the building. Abdullah gets out of the car and fixes his headress--it looks good on him. Some Saudis outside talk to me but I don't understand anything and tell them to ask Abdullah. Come to find out they're trying to get 25SR out of us but not today.
We get into the building. I tell Abdullah what window we need to go to. He goes to window 2 instead. Lots of talking--lots of hands moving and then we go to window 1 (like I had suggested). At window 1 more talking but now there are smiles. My folder gets taken. Abdullah tells me to sit.
I sit for the next hour! Sit and sit and sit. Names are being called out and people are rushing to get the sacred drivers license. Abdullah asks me for money--I give him 200SR and he disappears--but gives me my folder and tells me when 32 is called to go to the window. 32 is never called. Finally Abdullah comes back. He takes my folder to the window and 20 minutes later I have a license. Abdullah is very proud of me--lots of smiles and "Timothy very nice."
We get in the car--Abdullah stops at an ATM and gives me back the 200 he had borrowed. I get back to AEC and then walk back to my office. Now on Saturday I'll finally be able to invite Laurie and Timmie to Saudi.
It's only about 10 miles to work. But the cars along the way--insane. The roads are modern, there are street lights, stop signs, yield signs, traffic lights and lines in the road indicating the lanes--but nobody pays attention.
3 lanes turn into 5. The red light means that at least 10 more cars can go. The yield sign--I'm not sure what it means. The stop sign means to yield.
There are something like 8 million people that live in Riyadh and I think they all have at least one car.
I drove home--with Lenny reminding me of some of the turns--now he's on vacation in the States. I almost got bumped once--but I honked and they moved back into their lane.
I drove to Jarir bookstore today--I really really like Jarir--it has computers (the Saudis love their computers, thumb drives, etc..) and upstairs lots of books (Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart are here in the Kingdom). I never really get a chance to browse with Lenny--he's not a browser. So today I drove to Jarir and back. I was rather proud of myself.
Ok back to cars. The popular makes are Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai. The popular models are Camry, LTD, Malibu and Sonata. Of course there are Mercedes (I like the S class), BMW, Porsche and I even saw a Rolls Royce. The Saudi's love a low maintenance car--which is why they like Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai--and parts for all these are easy to find in the Kingdom.
I mentioned that I'd like to get a VW Jetta. Some sighing. Some frowns. "Timothy this car requires maintenance--the parts are expensive--and only foreigners drive them." I thought the last part was funny--I am a foreigner. We we'll see what happens. Right now I have the company Toyota Corolla--not much power--to drive. Maybe next year.
At least now I have true freedom. Now I just need to figure out how to get places--because everything looks the same to me--brown with palm trees.
Oh and the photos I gave--none of them were used--some other photos of me were used. So I don't know what happened to these 5. And my blood type--remember it's O+-but somehow now it's B+--at least O is the universal donor.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Dhahran
This weekend Lenny, Kay and some of the gang decided to go to Dhahran. Really they had all gotten visas to go to Bahrain--but somehow I got forgotten about so I didn't have a visa to visit Bahrain. Lenny and Kay told me not to worry they would stay with me in Dhahran--which made me feel good. Bahrain is about 20 minutes from Dhahran so the expats will sometimes stay in Dhahran because it's cheaper (for us it was free).
So off we went on Wed. Now I like a good road trip. There's always road signs to read, small towns to go through, etc.. Not here. The only thing that changed was the color of the sand. There are no small towns to visit between Riyadh and Dhahran. We did stop at rest stops--they were pretty run down and sad looking. I never actually went into the bathrooms. Kay did and every time she also came out and put lots of nati-bacterial soap on her hands.
Lenny and Kay like to listen to books when they have a road trip--I feel asleep.
There was traffic--trucks with camels, sheep or horses in the back--actually lots of trucks. The truck drivers all looked kind of sad--maybe bored since there's nothing to see.
I did see camels in the desert and that was cool. They look like they're gliding and somehow elegant--but up close--ugly.
I also saw house--some of them looked gorgeous. But then who would live there? I also saw projects that were started and not completed, projects completed but the buildings are empty and signs for projects that might take off one day. All in all--not that exciting and the trip was about 4 hours.
We get to Dhahran. I was in this town 13 years ago. It was a sleepy little ocean side town. Not today. It's grown. It's nice. It's actually peaceful and the drivers don't seem as impatient.
We checked in at Jadawel East--the compound owned by Royal Saudi Air Force--just like ours. We got keys to a villa. I got keys to a villa and a room--someone else was staying at the villa too but I had my own room with tv and bathroom and never saw the other people. The villas in Dhahran are smaller than the ones in Riyadh.
That night we all went to the Carlton Hotel and ate Mexican. It was ok. Some were saying it was the best--but to me it was ok. Now the dessert! Wow! There was an international buffet and there was plenty of dessert left so the manager let us have free dessert.
I had a Boston Creme Pie type dessert and then a delish white cake with a blueberry glaze and some sort of light filling. They were both incredible.
The next day the rest of the gang went to Bahrain while Lenny, Kay and I stayed in Dhahran. We went to a store to buy silverware--the only mission Kay had. Then we went to Jarir--a bookstore and computer store combined--with English books. Then to a mall--a huge--huge mall. Then it was noon. At noon it's prayer time and all the stores close--at least in Riyadh--until 4 pm. So we went back to the villa and rested.
At 5ish we left and went to the beach. Wow! I loved the smell of the salt air--hearing the waves lap against the wall--seeing people fish--families having fun. Then we walked the corniche (I don't know what that means unless you're talking about a Rolls Royce--all I know is that this is an area that you can see the ocean and you walk around)--maybe it was cornice. Families walking, families eating, soccer playing--it was almost "normal" feeling. It could have been Long Beach CA (I have good memories of 2nd Street and awesome blonde with blue eyes walking with me--eventually she decided to marry me--yah me!). It was just so incredible.
Lenny told me that when they were planning to build the new Intel Center that Kay suggested it be built in Dhahran. Lenny brought that up to the General--who chuckled and said Kay was probably right--but it's being built in Riyadh.
The wind was blowing, the night was a cool 98 degrees and there was the smell of the ocean. It really was incredible.
We ate at TGIF--which is right on the beach. It was TGIF--just like the States only no alcohol. The food--delish--we even got ice-cream sundaes--delisher. This time I treated since Lenny and Kay have treated me a lot--and they've been super nice to me.
We got up on Friday morning. Met everyone in the Central Facility. Had breakfast. Talked about what we did the day before. Then got in our cars an came home--in a sand storm (I'll write about that later). But talk about a white out--and wind! I thought Dorothy and Toto were going to show up.
Next beach town to visit--Jeddah! But it'll still be Saudi Arabia (no movie theater--sigh).
So off we went on Wed. Now I like a good road trip. There's always road signs to read, small towns to go through, etc.. Not here. The only thing that changed was the color of the sand. There are no small towns to visit between Riyadh and Dhahran. We did stop at rest stops--they were pretty run down and sad looking. I never actually went into the bathrooms. Kay did and every time she also came out and put lots of nati-bacterial soap on her hands.
Lenny and Kay like to listen to books when they have a road trip--I feel asleep.
There was traffic--trucks with camels, sheep or horses in the back--actually lots of trucks. The truck drivers all looked kind of sad--maybe bored since there's nothing to see.
I did see camels in the desert and that was cool. They look like they're gliding and somehow elegant--but up close--ugly.
I also saw house--some of them looked gorgeous. But then who would live there? I also saw projects that were started and not completed, projects completed but the buildings are empty and signs for projects that might take off one day. All in all--not that exciting and the trip was about 4 hours.
We get to Dhahran. I was in this town 13 years ago. It was a sleepy little ocean side town. Not today. It's grown. It's nice. It's actually peaceful and the drivers don't seem as impatient.
We checked in at Jadawel East--the compound owned by Royal Saudi Air Force--just like ours. We got keys to a villa. I got keys to a villa and a room--someone else was staying at the villa too but I had my own room with tv and bathroom and never saw the other people. The villas in Dhahran are smaller than the ones in Riyadh.
That night we all went to the Carlton Hotel and ate Mexican. It was ok. Some were saying it was the best--but to me it was ok. Now the dessert! Wow! There was an international buffet and there was plenty of dessert left so the manager let us have free dessert.
I had a Boston Creme Pie type dessert and then a delish white cake with a blueberry glaze and some sort of light filling. They were both incredible.
The next day the rest of the gang went to Bahrain while Lenny, Kay and I stayed in Dhahran. We went to a store to buy silverware--the only mission Kay had. Then we went to Jarir--a bookstore and computer store combined--with English books. Then to a mall--a huge--huge mall. Then it was noon. At noon it's prayer time and all the stores close--at least in Riyadh--until 4 pm. So we went back to the villa and rested.
At 5ish we left and went to the beach. Wow! I loved the smell of the salt air--hearing the waves lap against the wall--seeing people fish--families having fun. Then we walked the corniche (I don't know what that means unless you're talking about a Rolls Royce--all I know is that this is an area that you can see the ocean and you walk around)--maybe it was cornice. Families walking, families eating, soccer playing--it was almost "normal" feeling. It could have been Long Beach CA (I have good memories of 2nd Street and awesome blonde with blue eyes walking with me--eventually she decided to marry me--yah me!). It was just so incredible.
Lenny told me that when they were planning to build the new Intel Center that Kay suggested it be built in Dhahran. Lenny brought that up to the General--who chuckled and said Kay was probably right--but it's being built in Riyadh.
The wind was blowing, the night was a cool 98 degrees and there was the smell of the ocean. It really was incredible.
We ate at TGIF--which is right on the beach. It was TGIF--just like the States only no alcohol. The food--delish--we even got ice-cream sundaes--delisher. This time I treated since Lenny and Kay have treated me a lot--and they've been super nice to me.
We got up on Friday morning. Met everyone in the Central Facility. Had breakfast. Talked about what we did the day before. Then got in our cars an came home--in a sand storm (I'll write about that later). But talk about a white out--and wind! I thought Dorothy and Toto were going to show up.
Next beach town to visit--Jeddah! But it'll still be Saudi Arabia (no movie theater--sigh).
Cento per Cento
Ever since I arrived the group I hang out with has talked about an Italian restaurant they loved eating at. One day one of the couples went to the place and it was closed. So for three months these expats have been trying to find the new location. It's been found.
I don't know what the other restaurant looked liked, how the staff was or how the good the food tasted but Cento per Cento is awesome. From the moment we drove up and the big glass doors were opened for us I knew it was going to be a great experience.
The restaurant is downtown Riyadh--and I mean downtown. We drove by it the first time--swung around and pulled into the parking lot. Somebody greeted us at the door, smiled and told us to go upstairs. Up these beautiful winding wooden stairs we went. When we entered the dining area--wow--awesome.
The floor is wooden, marble and tile. There were at least 10 private rooms (this way the women can unrobe and unveil and eat without us men staring at them). The rooms sat 4 to 10 people. Then there were 4 tables in the "open." However, these had sheer curtains that could be closed--in case the muttawa came in--so women could unrobe and unveil in these areas also. We sat in the open.
Each open table has a square chandelier above it, a huge couch that sits at least three and then three plush chairs on the other side of the table. It was just incredible.
The service was excellent--all of our food arrived at the same time--it was all warm--it was served to the women first and then the men--the glasses were kept full of whatever we were drinking--it was a class act.
The menu had a really good selection. We ordered two large salads--better than Olive Garden--and two large calamari to get us started. They also brought out bread with herb butter and a side of crushed olives.
Then we all ordered our main dish. I had spaghetti with shrimp and garlic--heaven! Kay ordered lasagna--and it looked really good--she said it had the perfect amount of sauce (it wasn't swimming in the sauce). Bob got pizza and he said it was really good. All I know is everybody got quiet and just ate and ate and ate.
THEN we decided to have dessert. Tiramisu and creme Brule--the presentation was incredible--I can't even begin to describe it. The desserts were so light and delish--I'm sure there were no calories.
One thing I haven't mentioned yet is the presentation. The china was so unique and so cool looking that all the food looked appetizing just sitting on it. Every time they brought us a dish we were just as excited to see what the china looked like as we were the food. It was a great evening.
Merl and Chris paid for all of us! That was so thoughtful of them. Then Merl looked at me "Time, do you think this is the place for Laurie." I got a little teary eyed inside--but I said "Yes--she's going to love this place. This is where we're coming the day after she gets here." And that's what I want to do--and this time it'll be my treat.
It was just surreal in a way to be in this desert--with the Desert Warriors and their wives--a bunch of us Americans--all eating at this plush Italian restaurant--Cento per Cento.
I don't know what the other restaurant looked liked, how the staff was or how the good the food tasted but Cento per Cento is awesome. From the moment we drove up and the big glass doors were opened for us I knew it was going to be a great experience.
The restaurant is downtown Riyadh--and I mean downtown. We drove by it the first time--swung around and pulled into the parking lot. Somebody greeted us at the door, smiled and told us to go upstairs. Up these beautiful winding wooden stairs we went. When we entered the dining area--wow--awesome.
The floor is wooden, marble and tile. There were at least 10 private rooms (this way the women can unrobe and unveil and eat without us men staring at them). The rooms sat 4 to 10 people. Then there were 4 tables in the "open." However, these had sheer curtains that could be closed--in case the muttawa came in--so women could unrobe and unveil in these areas also. We sat in the open.
Each open table has a square chandelier above it, a huge couch that sits at least three and then three plush chairs on the other side of the table. It was just incredible.
The service was excellent--all of our food arrived at the same time--it was all warm--it was served to the women first and then the men--the glasses were kept full of whatever we were drinking--it was a class act.
The menu had a really good selection. We ordered two large salads--better than Olive Garden--and two large calamari to get us started. They also brought out bread with herb butter and a side of crushed olives.
Then we all ordered our main dish. I had spaghetti with shrimp and garlic--heaven! Kay ordered lasagna--and it looked really good--she said it had the perfect amount of sauce (it wasn't swimming in the sauce). Bob got pizza and he said it was really good. All I know is everybody got quiet and just ate and ate and ate.
THEN we decided to have dessert. Tiramisu and creme Brule--the presentation was incredible--I can't even begin to describe it. The desserts were so light and delish--I'm sure there were no calories.
One thing I haven't mentioned yet is the presentation. The china was so unique and so cool looking that all the food looked appetizing just sitting on it. Every time they brought us a dish we were just as excited to see what the china looked like as we were the food. It was a great evening.
Merl and Chris paid for all of us! That was so thoughtful of them. Then Merl looked at me "Time, do you think this is the place for Laurie." I got a little teary eyed inside--but I said "Yes--she's going to love this place. This is where we're coming the day after she gets here." And that's what I want to do--and this time it'll be my treat.
It was just surreal in a way to be in this desert--with the Desert Warriors and their wives--a bunch of us Americans--all eating at this plush Italian restaurant--Cento per Cento.
Maid
As you all know I hired a maid--Maggie--or maybe she hired me. Anyway I received a phone call "Sir this is Maggie." "Maggie how are you?" "Good sir, I will come on Monday." "Awesome." So I left the side door unlocked. The agreement is 5 hours a week at SR20 an hour=SR100 a week=SR400 a month=$106 a month.
I called during the day to make sure she was at the house and had found the cleaning supplies--she was and she had. I was excited to get home to see how clean it was.
Wow! I walked in--everything had been dusted--every room and closet had been vacuumed--the dishes had been washed. The clothes in the dryer were nicely folded. Stuff had been put away in drawers and cabinets. It was awesome and worth the money. So far my impression of Maggie's cleaning is very good (I've heard horror stories). Maybe this week I'll even leave some shirts for her to iron. A maid--wow.
I called during the day to make sure she was at the house and had found the cleaning supplies--she was and she had. I was excited to get home to see how clean it was.
Wow! I walked in--everything had been dusted--every room and closet had been vacuumed--the dishes had been washed. The clothes in the dryer were nicely folded. Stuff had been put away in drawers and cabinets. It was awesome and worth the money. So far my impression of Maggie's cleaning is very good (I've heard horror stories). Maybe this week I'll even leave some shirts for her to iron. A maid--wow.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Coffee or Tea
We Americans are so rush rush rush. 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Do we ever slow down and enjoy life? Or do we try to cram life into the 30 days of vacation we get? I've traveled to a lot of countries in the 22 years I was in the Air Force and the one thing that I've noticed is that other countries slow down and enjoy life.
When I was in Italy there was a pizza place that made awesome pizza and had awesome shrimp and spinach. I was there one day picking up an order and said how much I liked the food. The girl told me thanks. I told her we would still be in Italy for another three weeks, etc.. Well she said they were closing for holiday. And they didn't close for just a week--they were closing for the month--everybody was going on holiday--the owner, the manager, the waiters, cooks--and all paid for the month. Now that's living.
Here I love going to what we call the site office (I'm not sure why we call it that). I work for a US company ATTI who has a contract with a Saudi company Advanced Electronics Company (AEC)that has a contract with the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF)--whew. AEC handles all my paperwork, pay, making sure that Laurie and Timmie get invited over, medical--everything. So I go to their office a lot--there's no such thing as e-mailing your request. But I really like going to their office.
When I walk in--and I've normally walked at least 1/2 mile in the dusty heat--they're all busy doing something--on the phone, filling out paperwork, filing something--just busy. But when I walk in they drop everything they're doing--"Timothy how are you today? Sit Timothy and have some tea--coffee--something to drink." I alway tell them "No" at first--I'm just here to drop something off or ask a question. "No Timothy surely you need something to drink." Then I get my water and they get some tea or coffee and we chat.
We chat about work, we chat about Timmie and Laurie. We chat about children, the weather--all sorts of things. Eventually we get to the reason I'm in the office--has my work permit come back yet, did my paycheck go to my US account (yes it did and Laurie is VERY happy), has the letter been sent for Laurie and Timmie to get their visa (no because I still don't have my work permit). Calls are made. Discussions in Arabic--sometimes heated. Then "Timothy we are working the situation. Tell me is there anything else I can help you with?"
It's just so laid back but civilized. I kind of like it--I don't like how long the process takes to get anything done. But these desert Warriors in their white thobes and red head dressing really do want to make sure you're feeling welcome in their office--coffee or tea--but for me water.
When I leave it's smiles and handshakes with promises that tomorrow something will happen--inshalla. Rashed normally walks me to the door, smiles his friendly smile, shakes my hand and asks if there really is anything else he can do. I always smile back and tell him that he's doing enough. More smiles, more promises of come back and have coffee or tea. Maybe I'll have my iqama Wed or Sat--inshalla. But I can always count on coffee or tea--or water for me.
When I was in Italy there was a pizza place that made awesome pizza and had awesome shrimp and spinach. I was there one day picking up an order and said how much I liked the food. The girl told me thanks. I told her we would still be in Italy for another three weeks, etc.. Well she said they were closing for holiday. And they didn't close for just a week--they were closing for the month--everybody was going on holiday--the owner, the manager, the waiters, cooks--and all paid for the month. Now that's living.
Here I love going to what we call the site office (I'm not sure why we call it that). I work for a US company ATTI who has a contract with a Saudi company Advanced Electronics Company (AEC)that has a contract with the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF)--whew. AEC handles all my paperwork, pay, making sure that Laurie and Timmie get invited over, medical--everything. So I go to their office a lot--there's no such thing as e-mailing your request. But I really like going to their office.
When I walk in--and I've normally walked at least 1/2 mile in the dusty heat--they're all busy doing something--on the phone, filling out paperwork, filing something--just busy. But when I walk in they drop everything they're doing--"Timothy how are you today? Sit Timothy and have some tea--coffee--something to drink." I alway tell them "No" at first--I'm just here to drop something off or ask a question. "No Timothy surely you need something to drink." Then I get my water and they get some tea or coffee and we chat.
We chat about work, we chat about Timmie and Laurie. We chat about children, the weather--all sorts of things. Eventually we get to the reason I'm in the office--has my work permit come back yet, did my paycheck go to my US account (yes it did and Laurie is VERY happy), has the letter been sent for Laurie and Timmie to get their visa (no because I still don't have my work permit). Calls are made. Discussions in Arabic--sometimes heated. Then "Timothy we are working the situation. Tell me is there anything else I can help you with?"
It's just so laid back but civilized. I kind of like it--I don't like how long the process takes to get anything done. But these desert Warriors in their white thobes and red head dressing really do want to make sure you're feeling welcome in their office--coffee or tea--but for me water.
When I leave it's smiles and handshakes with promises that tomorrow something will happen--inshalla. Rashed normally walks me to the door, smiles his friendly smile, shakes my hand and asks if there really is anything else he can do. I always smile back and tell him that he's doing enough. More smiles, more promises of come back and have coffee or tea. Maybe I'll have my iqama Wed or Sat--inshalla. But I can always count on coffee or tea--or water for me.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Arabian Night
On Monday one of the Majors I work with said "Tim, you and King are invited to the party." Awesome--what party. The Major then talked to Lenny. The party was for Tues--that was all we knew at the time.
On Tues more info trickled down--information like we had to wear a suit and tie and rumors that some big two star Generals were going to be at the party. The time of the party was also given to us--830--Inshalla--in the evening was the start of the party. So Lenny picks me up in his 4-wheel drive at 745--we stay on the main roads since we're dressed up (no desert digging for us). We get to the place at830.
Wow! The restaurant looked like an old house built of straw and mud. There were some tables but mainly there were sections where men were just lounging around on the pillows and food and drinks are being brought to them. It was like being in a movie.
Our party had it's own private room. Remember these are men that I work with but this is the first time for me to see them in Saudi dress--they're always in their uniforms at work. It was just a little startling to see these desert warriors in their "normal" Saudi dress.
I walk into the private room and there's General Faisal--we found out it was just our work group that was at the party--lounging against the pillows. He gets up with a smile and shakes our hands and tells us to sit. I get to sit beside Zidan--my former student and now my friend. Oh I forgot to mention that before you sit you take off your shoes off outside the door.
So here I am a white boy from the South in my new grey suit, white shirt, the tie that Laurie picked out for me, in my socks sitting on the rugs and lounging against the pillows surrounded by Saudi men in their Saudi dress--wow! And all of them are speaking Arabic--except Z--he's speaking English to me to tell me about the history of Saudi, traditions, customs and a story about the trip he just took with his Mom (he really loves his Mom and I told him I love hearing stories about his family life--his Dad is obsessed with watching Fox News). It was just like being in an Indian Jones movie--or Lawrence of Arabia.
Drinks were ordered--they still find it amusing that I don't drink coffee or tea--and they ordered water for me--but the tea and coffee do smell really good. More chatting. Now the dates are brought out--sweet dates--and we eat them--and more talking. We got there at 830 and now it's 1030. Finally the main course arrives.
I've never seen so much food. Not even at a pot luck. First all of our plates are brought in--metal plates painted with flowers and other designs--then the cups, and silverware (yes they brought silverware) and finally four huge--and I mean huge--platters of rice with veggies and meat, bowls of more meat and veggies and then bowls with what looked like refried beans (Z told me that it was veggies mashep up with wheat). Everybody gets close to the food, sits crosslegged and just starts digging in--and the talking stops (except Z who was still telling me things--General Faisal smiled and told Z to be quiet so I could eat). Oh and the bread--wow the bread. Eat Tim eat. "Tim I told you not to eat breakfast or lunch"--General Faisal--"and what did you do." I ate two donuts"--me--laugher from everybody. We're eating and eating. I was told some of it was lamb and that some was camel--all I can say it that it was all delish!
So we're finished eating the main course and now we're drinking Pepsi and water and back to lounging againt the pillows. More tea. Now dessert. I get a coconut type pudding--and it was delish but I couldn't finish it all. I look at my watch at it's 1130. I ask General Faisal if we all get to come to work later--in my smiling kidding voice. The whole room laughs and the General with a smile on his face "Tim you have to be at work at 0630 to open" --more laughter.
Things start winding down. People are shaking hands with the General and I hear my name and chuckles--it was about coming in late. Lenny and I leave around midnight--Z walks us to our car--and we get home at 1230. Work starts at 0700 and we leave here around -0630--yawn--it's been a busy evening and I only have about 5 hours to sleep. But I couldn't go to sleep until I called Laurie and Timmie and told them about my Arabian Night.
On Tues more info trickled down--information like we had to wear a suit and tie and rumors that some big two star Generals were going to be at the party. The time of the party was also given to us--830--Inshalla--in the evening was the start of the party. So Lenny picks me up in his 4-wheel drive at 745--we stay on the main roads since we're dressed up (no desert digging for us). We get to the place at830.
Wow! The restaurant looked like an old house built of straw and mud. There were some tables but mainly there were sections where men were just lounging around on the pillows and food and drinks are being brought to them. It was like being in a movie.
Our party had it's own private room. Remember these are men that I work with but this is the first time for me to see them in Saudi dress--they're always in their uniforms at work. It was just a little startling to see these desert warriors in their "normal" Saudi dress.
I walk into the private room and there's General Faisal--we found out it was just our work group that was at the party--lounging against the pillows. He gets up with a smile and shakes our hands and tells us to sit. I get to sit beside Zidan--my former student and now my friend. Oh I forgot to mention that before you sit you take off your shoes off outside the door.
So here I am a white boy from the South in my new grey suit, white shirt, the tie that Laurie picked out for me, in my socks sitting on the rugs and lounging against the pillows surrounded by Saudi men in their Saudi dress--wow! And all of them are speaking Arabic--except Z--he's speaking English to me to tell me about the history of Saudi, traditions, customs and a story about the trip he just took with his Mom (he really loves his Mom and I told him I love hearing stories about his family life--his Dad is obsessed with watching Fox News). It was just like being in an Indian Jones movie--or Lawrence of Arabia.
Drinks were ordered--they still find it amusing that I don't drink coffee or tea--and they ordered water for me--but the tea and coffee do smell really good. More chatting. Now the dates are brought out--sweet dates--and we eat them--and more talking. We got there at 830 and now it's 1030. Finally the main course arrives.
I've never seen so much food. Not even at a pot luck. First all of our plates are brought in--metal plates painted with flowers and other designs--then the cups, and silverware (yes they brought silverware) and finally four huge--and I mean huge--platters of rice with veggies and meat, bowls of more meat and veggies and then bowls with what looked like refried beans (Z told me that it was veggies mashep up with wheat). Everybody gets close to the food, sits crosslegged and just starts digging in--and the talking stops (except Z who was still telling me things--General Faisal smiled and told Z to be quiet so I could eat). Oh and the bread--wow the bread. Eat Tim eat. "Tim I told you not to eat breakfast or lunch"--General Faisal--"and what did you do." I ate two donuts"--me--laugher from everybody. We're eating and eating. I was told some of it was lamb and that some was camel--all I can say it that it was all delish!
So we're finished eating the main course and now we're drinking Pepsi and water and back to lounging againt the pillows. More tea. Now dessert. I get a coconut type pudding--and it was delish but I couldn't finish it all. I look at my watch at it's 1130. I ask General Faisal if we all get to come to work later--in my smiling kidding voice. The whole room laughs and the General with a smile on his face "Tim you have to be at work at 0630 to open" --more laughter.
Things start winding down. People are shaking hands with the General and I hear my name and chuckles--it was about coming in late. Lenny and I leave around midnight--Z walks us to our car--and we get home at 1230. Work starts at 0700 and we leave here around -0630--yawn--it's been a busy evening and I only have about 5 hours to sleep. But I couldn't go to sleep until I called Laurie and Timmie and told them about my Arabian Night.
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