I've written before (maybe in an e-mail--I just know I've written about it) about the lunch room and all we have is rice and chicken or fish and rice--sometimes we have spaghetti (that's a big treat for us!). We expats know that the contractor must be making some good money since he's feeding us cheap--we do pay--it's not free. The expats talk about the days of French fries and hamburgers--those days are long gone.
Well I've been working in the basement a lot lately--researching on the internet for the General. There's a young airman--Khalid--that really likes me and I really like him. Khalid always has a smile and handshake and will help me with anything I ask.
I've been complaining about the lunch room food so Khalid decided he wanted to take "Mr. Tim" out to get me some seafood. I thought that was nice of him--making sure his American is fed good (I'm not losing any weight--there's plenty to eat). So today was the day Khalid took me to lunch.
Before we left I asked him if Sultan could go also--Sultan is kind of the boss for the linguist--I really like all the linguist--plus Sultan knows Rashed. Sultan came with us.
In the car Khalid and Sultan are talking--I hear my name--Khalid is driving around. I ask Khalid what they are talking about.
"Sultan said that we should go to this Jordanian restaurant and have chicken and rice. But I told Sultan that you are tired of chicken and rice."
"Well if Sultan says it's good then we should go."
"Mr. Tim are you sure? You said you were tired of rice."
"Khalid I'm sure. Sultan this is good?"
"Yes very very nice and good--you will like it."
We get there. It's nothing fancy. Only one table is empty. The waiter brings a menu--no pictures and no English. Sultan explains each dish--there are 6 of them. I ask him what he's going to have--the chicken stiffed with rice. So I agree to that too--in fact we all have the same.
Then they bring out soup and salad. The soup--wow--it was the best soup I've had in a long time--really really delish. The salad looked so nice with the green of the lettuce and the deep red tomatoes.--and it had a dash of fresh mint--yum.
We get our chicken and rice. The plate is full of white rice and almonds. The chicken was cooked with cinnamon and I don't know what else--but it was stuffed with the most delish rice. I ate it all. I couldn't stop eating. It really was a great meal. Khalid was very happy that I liked it. I gave it my two thumbs up.
As we got ready to leave I asked Khalid how much I owed.
"No Mr. Tim I paid. In our country when you take a friend out for the first time you pay." I'm really touched by this hospitality. BUT I told him and Sultan that I was paying next time and they said "No problem."
The restaurant--men only--no family section. But they do home delivery--everybody does home delivery. I'm sitting here hours later and I can still smell and taste this chicken and rice--YUM!
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Old Riyadh
Yesterday--Friday--Rashed called me at 4 pm "Timothy I will be there to pick you up in 20 minutes." I had to hurry to get ready. I knew that Rashed wanted to show me around--and I was excited.
Rashed is a young handsome Saudi. He works at AEC. Speaks beautiful English and is just awesome. Rashed is going to the University to become a stock broker--he's very smart. He's been to the US at least twice and Canada at least once.
So Rashed arrives. I get in the car and off we go. I feel perfectly safe with him driving--after all this is country.
Rashed takes me to the older part of Riyadh. Shows me areas that I'm sure most Westerners don't get to see. He takes me to the "original malls"--the part of town where you still bargain for what you're buying.
In Saudi you will smell this kind of sick sweet burning smell in offices, homes or other places. I'm not sure what it's all called but they burn this wood--which gives off the kind of sweet smell--and you're supposed to inhale it--this is normally done when you're leaving so you remember the good times you had.
Rashed took me to see this old man. The man was 100 if he was a day. Old and dark--but with a spark in him--he seemed to enjoy life. Rashed spoke to him in Arabic and mentioned that I was American. The man turned to me smiling and said "How are you today?"
"I'm fine how are you?" He grips my hand.
"I am doing very well. Welcome to Saudi."
He said all this and then chatted some more to me in the most beautiful English--hardly an accent. He was very animated and I really enjoyed being in shop. By the way the wood is very $$$$. A kilo can cost over $1,000--yes dollars.
Off we went with Rashed as the tour guide. I saw guys getting fitted for a wedding--they wear a special "cloak" over the thobe and the cloak is very $$--the gold thread used to be real gold--now it's just thread. It's the cloak you'll see the King wear. It usually means that one has authority or at least money. But everyday guys have them made for special occasions such as a wedding.
I saw some awesome and manly headresses. White and hand stitched--I bought one for 120SR. It's so awesome and warrior looking. Rashed asked if I wanted to wear it. I told him not yet. He smiled and said that when I get a thobe he would show me how to wear it all properly.
More exploring. Off to the gold market. Very nice--but I wanted to see some jewels. Off we went. Again very nice. But I'll save some money before I go there again.
Then Rashed took me to a place I love going--the rug market. He took me to a certain store. The rugs! Just the smell and I thought I was in heaven. I love going in and talking to the dealers. I don't know anything about rugs--just that I like them and that a good dealer is willing to discuss the history of rugs with you.
13 years ago when I was TDY here in Saudi I used to visit a certain rug shop. The old man and I would sit around and he would chat about rugs, politics and religion. He would show me expensive rugs--I remember one for $5,000. I loved the smell of the store and his stories and went to his store as often as I could. I could only afford a tablecloth and bought one. Laurie and I use it even today--it's exotic and reminds me of Saudi. I may have bought the prayer rugs there too--but I can't remember for sure.
Today I earn a little more than I did as a Staff Sergeant--just a little more. I fell in love with a beautiful red runner. It feels so soft. The red is so rich. The blue is a gorgeous blue. The design is unusual. The man told me about the tribe that makes the rugs. Where the rugs come from. And on and on. I could have stayed for hours. He kept unrolling rugs and showing them to us. I finally asked the price of the red runner. Rashed told him to give "us" the best price. He gave a price--2,500SR. Too much I said. Another price. I told him this was my first rug--Rashed smiled at the man and said "Please give us your best price." The man said $500--ok--1875SR. I told him I could only buy it if he took credit cards. He did.
The first time the credit card machine timed out. The second time they kept it in Arabic and it went through--maybe it didn't understand English. He packed the rug up. Then he wrote the legend about the rug. The red is from pomegranate and the blue from saffron. He wrote what tribe made the rug and what country they are from.
Rashed carried the bag to the car. I was excited and nervous--maybe I paid too much--maybe Laurie won't like it--maybe it will fall apart. But wow--I bought my first rug.
Then we went to eat. I decided on Chinese. In a way I was hoping for a buffet--but no such luck. However the food was delish and Rashed paid--even though I protested and told him it was my treat for him being such a great tour guide. But he insisted on paying.
Rashed brought me home--6 hours later. What a GREAT day! I'm so glad that there are awesome men here willing to show me around and that they're proud of their culture and their country.
I waved good-bye to Rashed. Closed the door. Unpacked the rug and put it in the front hall. It's not as long as I wanted--but it looks awesome. It's so Middle East. It's so soft. I don't even want to walk on it. The red--such a beautiful red. The blues--very nice. I can't wait to buy another one--next time maybe a larger one—but with the help of Laurie and Timmie. This could be a habit more expensive than buying jewelry. The man at the shop told me that I could sell this runner for $2,000 - 3,000. Wow! Maybe Laurie and I should buy some and then bring them back next year and sell them. I can't wait to go back to the shop and talk to the man and learn more about handmade rugs.
For all you wanting to see pictures I did take some with my new mobile phone. I'll learn how to send them to Laurie so she can post them--or maybe I should learn how to do that too.
Rashed is a young handsome Saudi. He works at AEC. Speaks beautiful English and is just awesome. Rashed is going to the University to become a stock broker--he's very smart. He's been to the US at least twice and Canada at least once.
So Rashed arrives. I get in the car and off we go. I feel perfectly safe with him driving--after all this is country.
Rashed takes me to the older part of Riyadh. Shows me areas that I'm sure most Westerners don't get to see. He takes me to the "original malls"--the part of town where you still bargain for what you're buying.
In Saudi you will smell this kind of sick sweet burning smell in offices, homes or other places. I'm not sure what it's all called but they burn this wood--which gives off the kind of sweet smell--and you're supposed to inhale it--this is normally done when you're leaving so you remember the good times you had.
Rashed took me to see this old man. The man was 100 if he was a day. Old and dark--but with a spark in him--he seemed to enjoy life. Rashed spoke to him in Arabic and mentioned that I was American. The man turned to me smiling and said "How are you today?"
"I'm fine how are you?" He grips my hand.
"I am doing very well. Welcome to Saudi."
He said all this and then chatted some more to me in the most beautiful English--hardly an accent. He was very animated and I really enjoyed being in shop. By the way the wood is very $$$$. A kilo can cost over $1,000--yes dollars.
Off we went with Rashed as the tour guide. I saw guys getting fitted for a wedding--they wear a special "cloak" over the thobe and the cloak is very $$--the gold thread used to be real gold--now it's just thread. It's the cloak you'll see the King wear. It usually means that one has authority or at least money. But everyday guys have them made for special occasions such as a wedding.
I saw some awesome and manly headresses. White and hand stitched--I bought one for 120SR. It's so awesome and warrior looking. Rashed asked if I wanted to wear it. I told him not yet. He smiled and said that when I get a thobe he would show me how to wear it all properly.
More exploring. Off to the gold market. Very nice--but I wanted to see some jewels. Off we went. Again very nice. But I'll save some money before I go there again.
Then Rashed took me to a place I love going--the rug market. He took me to a certain store. The rugs! Just the smell and I thought I was in heaven. I love going in and talking to the dealers. I don't know anything about rugs--just that I like them and that a good dealer is willing to discuss the history of rugs with you.
13 years ago when I was TDY here in Saudi I used to visit a certain rug shop. The old man and I would sit around and he would chat about rugs, politics and religion. He would show me expensive rugs--I remember one for $5,000. I loved the smell of the store and his stories and went to his store as often as I could. I could only afford a tablecloth and bought one. Laurie and I use it even today--it's exotic and reminds me of Saudi. I may have bought the prayer rugs there too--but I can't remember for sure.
Today I earn a little more than I did as a Staff Sergeant--just a little more. I fell in love with a beautiful red runner. It feels so soft. The red is so rich. The blue is a gorgeous blue. The design is unusual. The man told me about the tribe that makes the rugs. Where the rugs come from. And on and on. I could have stayed for hours. He kept unrolling rugs and showing them to us. I finally asked the price of the red runner. Rashed told him to give "us" the best price. He gave a price--2,500SR. Too much I said. Another price. I told him this was my first rug--Rashed smiled at the man and said "Please give us your best price." The man said $500--ok--1875SR. I told him I could only buy it if he took credit cards. He did.
The first time the credit card machine timed out. The second time they kept it in Arabic and it went through--maybe it didn't understand English. He packed the rug up. Then he wrote the legend about the rug. The red is from pomegranate and the blue from saffron. He wrote what tribe made the rug and what country they are from.
Rashed carried the bag to the car. I was excited and nervous--maybe I paid too much--maybe Laurie won't like it--maybe it will fall apart. But wow--I bought my first rug.
Then we went to eat. I decided on Chinese. In a way I was hoping for a buffet--but no such luck. However the food was delish and Rashed paid--even though I protested and told him it was my treat for him being such a great tour guide. But he insisted on paying.
Rashed brought me home--6 hours later. What a GREAT day! I'm so glad that there are awesome men here willing to show me around and that they're proud of their culture and their country.
I waved good-bye to Rashed. Closed the door. Unpacked the rug and put it in the front hall. It's not as long as I wanted--but it looks awesome. It's so Middle East. It's so soft. I don't even want to walk on it. The red--such a beautiful red. The blues--very nice. I can't wait to buy another one--next time maybe a larger one—but with the help of Laurie and Timmie. This could be a habit more expensive than buying jewelry. The man at the shop told me that I could sell this runner for $2,000 - 3,000. Wow! Maybe Laurie and I should buy some and then bring them back next year and sell them. I can't wait to go back to the shop and talk to the man and learn more about handmade rugs.
For all you wanting to see pictures I did take some with my new mobile phone. I'll learn how to send them to Laurie so she can post them--or maybe I should learn how to do that too.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Sandstorms
For the past three days there have been sandstorms. This isn't beach sand--it's Saudi desert sand. Visibility was low and at times the sand blocked some of the sun--but it was still hot.
Our pool was so dirty looking because the pump couldn't keep up with all the sand. I cleaned the filter out three times just to try to keep the pool somewhat clean. That worked for a while.
Driving around in a sandstorm is an experience--or adventure. I would turn on my car lights so others could see me. At times the cars ahead of were "invisible"--like when it rains hard and you can't see too far ahead. But I still needed to wear my sunglasses because of the sun's rays--not a lot of sunshine but the rays still hurt my eyes. I wear sunglasses constantly over here--they're a must have item.
They gave the workers on the compound surgical masks to wear. Poor guys are out in this stuff all day--security and gardeners. I really do feel sorry for them. But they have a good attitude--and--inshallah--the storm will be over soon.
Well the storm is over. Today it's blue skies--full of sunshine--and hot. And the pool looks great. The water is nice a blue looking and looks inviting--so inviting that I swam today. In fact I was outside for almost two hours today--swimming, hosing down the back, and just laying out in the sun. Ahhh it felt great.
Our pool was so dirty looking because the pump couldn't keep up with all the sand. I cleaned the filter out three times just to try to keep the pool somewhat clean. That worked for a while.
Driving around in a sandstorm is an experience--or adventure. I would turn on my car lights so others could see me. At times the cars ahead of were "invisible"--like when it rains hard and you can't see too far ahead. But I still needed to wear my sunglasses because of the sun's rays--not a lot of sunshine but the rays still hurt my eyes. I wear sunglasses constantly over here--they're a must have item.
They gave the workers on the compound surgical masks to wear. Poor guys are out in this stuff all day--security and gardeners. I really do feel sorry for them. But they have a good attitude--and--inshallah--the storm will be over soon.
Well the storm is over. Today it's blue skies--full of sunshine--and hot. And the pool looks great. The water is nice a blue looking and looks inviting--so inviting that I swam today. In fact I was outside for almost two hours today--swimming, hosing down the back, and just laying out in the sun. Ahhh it felt great.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Fill it up
I like saying that when I pull into a gas station--"Fill it up." The attendants are so nice and courteous--washing your windows, checking under the hood. What am I saying and what century am I thinking of. I'm not that old but I do remember those days. I also remember the first time Grandma Dukes got out of the car and pumped her own gas. And I remember when I discovered you could use your credit card at the pump and pay for gas--you never had to go inside and see the cashier (I also remember having discovered this while living in Long Beach CA and then Laurie and I were in GA and I was irritated that Zebulon hadn't caught on to this great idea--you actually had to go inside and pay--but that was years ago and Zebulon is now part of the late 20th century).
Today I had to get gas in the car--and of course it was a first for me. I had picked out what gas station I wanted to go to--one that has pink lights at night which I think is funny--it reminds me of Vegas. So I pull in. The guys motion me to the pump. I pull the gas lever inside the car and roll down the window. Smiles. How are you. Handshakes.
They fill up the car, wash the windows, bring me some water and a box of kleenex (I'm not sure who marketed the kleenex but kleenex are everywhere--cars, restaurants, bathrooms, offices, etc..). I give the guys a tip--a little over a dollar each. More smiles and off I go.
I liked it. I liked pulling up and having someone pump the gas and wash the windows. I liked the water and box of kleenex. I liked the kind greeting and smile.
By the way the bill came to 19SR for 42 liters. I know that 19SR is a little over $5--to fill up the car. Wow! Next time I say "Fill it up" it'll be with a bigger smile (the company pays for 100SR a month--awesome).
Today I had to get gas in the car--and of course it was a first for me. I had picked out what gas station I wanted to go to--one that has pink lights at night which I think is funny--it reminds me of Vegas. So I pull in. The guys motion me to the pump. I pull the gas lever inside the car and roll down the window. Smiles. How are you. Handshakes.
They fill up the car, wash the windows, bring me some water and a box of kleenex (I'm not sure who marketed the kleenex but kleenex are everywhere--cars, restaurants, bathrooms, offices, etc..). I give the guys a tip--a little over a dollar each. More smiles and off I go.
I liked it. I liked pulling up and having someone pump the gas and wash the windows. I liked the water and box of kleenex. I liked the kind greeting and smile.
By the way the bill came to 19SR for 42 liters. I know that 19SR is a little over $5--to fill up the car. Wow! Next time I say "Fill it up" it'll be with a bigger smile (the company pays for 100SR a month--awesome).
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Driving and Cars
I can officially and legally drive in Saudi Arabia! Wow. For two weeks AEC personnel have promised me "Tim you'll get your license soon--maybe this week or next." Next week finally got here. So here's what happened.
Khalid picks Tuesday to go. He tells me to be at the office by 1000 or 1030. I arrived at 1000--the earlier the better. However, 1000 didn't really mean 1000. Khalid didn't show up until 1100 and had to fix paperwork--some it relating to our time sheets so I wasn't going to argue with that. Prayer time is at noon so Khalid said we would wait until after prayer. Finally at 1230 we left. But before leaving I had to have the usual 5 photos of myself (this place is crazy about photos) along with my iqama (work permit) and my Texas drivers license--I had them all. Khalid grabbed a green folder with papers in Arabic stamped with the official AEC stamp (they're crazy about stamps too--my time sheet has to have an office stamp on it). I found out later that the green folder is crucial to getting your license. If the folder is any other color--no license. Off we go--Khalid talking on the cell phone, smoking a cigarette (I felt like I had a smoked a cigarette by the time we arrived) and whipping in and out of traffic (he's a great driver--really). As usual no signals or mirrors were used--I think they're considered optional here.
We arrive at the building--a big pink building. In we go--Khalid is still talking on the phone. Khalid has wasta--meaning he knows people. We go to the front desk--smiles, talking, something about my folder, Khalid ignores them and we go to another room.
Up to that window. I produce my iqama and Texas license--Khalid talks--money is exchanged--a stamp on my papers. Things seem to be going well. Now to the next window.
We get to the next window. More smiles, talking, my name is mentioned--I'm a little bored so I look in this machine and see some numbers and colors. The policeman asks me to tell him the numbers--oh that's what this is for--so I do--big numbers by the way that I could have read without my glasses. Now on to the blood test.
I am a little nervous about this. I hate giving blood in the US much less in a foreign country. In I go. The older and very nice Saudi gentleman talks to Khalid and then smiles at me and says "Are you ready?" I tell him "Not really but go ahead." He smiles and chuckles. I stick my arm out and close my eyes. My finger gets pricked. Wow that was it. He squeezes some blood out puts some sort of solution and says I'm O+--which I am. The paper is stamped and more money is exchanged.
Now to the final desk. Khalid is talking he's mentioning my name--he gets a little irritated. We leave that window and go to some office that has a very serious policeman sitting at the desk. Khalid mentions his friends name. The policeman asks something then my paper is signed. Khalid tells me we're leaving. But I still don't have my license. In the car Khalid tells me the computers were down. BUT tomorrow--bukra--I'll have my license and it will only take 20 minutes.
So back to AEC on Wed morning at 0800. Abdullah takes me--Khalid is getting ready for vacation that starts on Saturday. I like Abdullah--he speaks little English but is fun to be around. Off we go listening to Arabic music, Abdullah smoking constantly, honking the horn, "Timothy look"--I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at but I smile and say "Wow" and Abdullah smiles.
We arrive at the building. Abdullah gets out of the car and fixes his headress--it looks good on him. Some Saudis outside talk to me but I don't understand anything and tell them to ask Abdullah. Come to find out they're trying to get 25SR out of us but not today.
We get into the building. I tell Abdullah what window we need to go to. He goes to window 2 instead. Lots of talking--lots of hands moving and then we go to window 1 (like I had suggested). At window 1 more talking but now there are smiles. My folder gets taken. Abdullah tells me to sit.
I sit for the next hour! Sit and sit and sit. Names are being called out and people are rushing to get the sacred drivers license. Abdullah asks me for money--I give him 200SR and he disappears--but gives me my folder and tells me when 32 is called to go to the window. 32 is never called. Finally Abdullah comes back. He takes my folder to the window and 20 minutes later I have a license. Abdullah is very proud of me--lots of smiles and "Timothy very nice."
We get in the car--Abdullah stops at an ATM and gives me back the 200 he had borrowed. I get back to AEC and then walk back to my office. Now on Saturday I'll finally be able to invite Laurie and Timmie to Saudi.
It's only about 10 miles to work. But the cars along the way--insane. The roads are modern, there are street lights, stop signs, yield signs, traffic lights and lines in the road indicating the lanes--but nobody pays attention.
3 lanes turn into 5. The red light means that at least 10 more cars can go. The yield sign--I'm not sure what it means. The stop sign means to yield.
There are something like 8 million people that live in Riyadh and I think they all have at least one car.
I drove home--with Lenny reminding me of some of the turns--now he's on vacation in the States. I almost got bumped once--but I honked and they moved back into their lane.
I drove to Jarir bookstore today--I really really like Jarir--it has computers (the Saudis love their computers, thumb drives, etc..) and upstairs lots of books (Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart are here in the Kingdom). I never really get a chance to browse with Lenny--he's not a browser. So today I drove to Jarir and back. I was rather proud of myself.
Ok back to cars. The popular makes are Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai. The popular models are Camry, LTD, Malibu and Sonata. Of course there are Mercedes (I like the S class), BMW, Porsche and I even saw a Rolls Royce. The Saudi's love a low maintenance car--which is why they like Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai--and parts for all these are easy to find in the Kingdom.
I mentioned that I'd like to get a VW Jetta. Some sighing. Some frowns. "Timothy this car requires maintenance--the parts are expensive--and only foreigners drive them." I thought the last part was funny--I am a foreigner. We we'll see what happens. Right now I have the company Toyota Corolla--not much power--to drive. Maybe next year.
At least now I have true freedom. Now I just need to figure out how to get places--because everything looks the same to me--brown with palm trees.
Oh and the photos I gave--none of them were used--some other photos of me were used. So I don't know what happened to these 5. And my blood type--remember it's O+-but somehow now it's B+--at least O is the universal donor.
Khalid picks Tuesday to go. He tells me to be at the office by 1000 or 1030. I arrived at 1000--the earlier the better. However, 1000 didn't really mean 1000. Khalid didn't show up until 1100 and had to fix paperwork--some it relating to our time sheets so I wasn't going to argue with that. Prayer time is at noon so Khalid said we would wait until after prayer. Finally at 1230 we left. But before leaving I had to have the usual 5 photos of myself (this place is crazy about photos) along with my iqama (work permit) and my Texas drivers license--I had them all. Khalid grabbed a green folder with papers in Arabic stamped with the official AEC stamp (they're crazy about stamps too--my time sheet has to have an office stamp on it). I found out later that the green folder is crucial to getting your license. If the folder is any other color--no license. Off we go--Khalid talking on the cell phone, smoking a cigarette (I felt like I had a smoked a cigarette by the time we arrived) and whipping in and out of traffic (he's a great driver--really). As usual no signals or mirrors were used--I think they're considered optional here.
We arrive at the building--a big pink building. In we go--Khalid is still talking on the phone. Khalid has wasta--meaning he knows people. We go to the front desk--smiles, talking, something about my folder, Khalid ignores them and we go to another room.
Up to that window. I produce my iqama and Texas license--Khalid talks--money is exchanged--a stamp on my papers. Things seem to be going well. Now to the next window.
We get to the next window. More smiles, talking, my name is mentioned--I'm a little bored so I look in this machine and see some numbers and colors. The policeman asks me to tell him the numbers--oh that's what this is for--so I do--big numbers by the way that I could have read without my glasses. Now on to the blood test.
I am a little nervous about this. I hate giving blood in the US much less in a foreign country. In I go. The older and very nice Saudi gentleman talks to Khalid and then smiles at me and says "Are you ready?" I tell him "Not really but go ahead." He smiles and chuckles. I stick my arm out and close my eyes. My finger gets pricked. Wow that was it. He squeezes some blood out puts some sort of solution and says I'm O+--which I am. The paper is stamped and more money is exchanged.
Now to the final desk. Khalid is talking he's mentioning my name--he gets a little irritated. We leave that window and go to some office that has a very serious policeman sitting at the desk. Khalid mentions his friends name. The policeman asks something then my paper is signed. Khalid tells me we're leaving. But I still don't have my license. In the car Khalid tells me the computers were down. BUT tomorrow--bukra--I'll have my license and it will only take 20 minutes.
So back to AEC on Wed morning at 0800. Abdullah takes me--Khalid is getting ready for vacation that starts on Saturday. I like Abdullah--he speaks little English but is fun to be around. Off we go listening to Arabic music, Abdullah smoking constantly, honking the horn, "Timothy look"--I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at but I smile and say "Wow" and Abdullah smiles.
We arrive at the building. Abdullah gets out of the car and fixes his headress--it looks good on him. Some Saudis outside talk to me but I don't understand anything and tell them to ask Abdullah. Come to find out they're trying to get 25SR out of us but not today.
We get into the building. I tell Abdullah what window we need to go to. He goes to window 2 instead. Lots of talking--lots of hands moving and then we go to window 1 (like I had suggested). At window 1 more talking but now there are smiles. My folder gets taken. Abdullah tells me to sit.
I sit for the next hour! Sit and sit and sit. Names are being called out and people are rushing to get the sacred drivers license. Abdullah asks me for money--I give him 200SR and he disappears--but gives me my folder and tells me when 32 is called to go to the window. 32 is never called. Finally Abdullah comes back. He takes my folder to the window and 20 minutes later I have a license. Abdullah is very proud of me--lots of smiles and "Timothy very nice."
We get in the car--Abdullah stops at an ATM and gives me back the 200 he had borrowed. I get back to AEC and then walk back to my office. Now on Saturday I'll finally be able to invite Laurie and Timmie to Saudi.
It's only about 10 miles to work. But the cars along the way--insane. The roads are modern, there are street lights, stop signs, yield signs, traffic lights and lines in the road indicating the lanes--but nobody pays attention.
3 lanes turn into 5. The red light means that at least 10 more cars can go. The yield sign--I'm not sure what it means. The stop sign means to yield.
There are something like 8 million people that live in Riyadh and I think they all have at least one car.
I drove home--with Lenny reminding me of some of the turns--now he's on vacation in the States. I almost got bumped once--but I honked and they moved back into their lane.
I drove to Jarir bookstore today--I really really like Jarir--it has computers (the Saudis love their computers, thumb drives, etc..) and upstairs lots of books (Rachel Ray and Martha Stewart are here in the Kingdom). I never really get a chance to browse with Lenny--he's not a browser. So today I drove to Jarir and back. I was rather proud of myself.
Ok back to cars. The popular makes are Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai. The popular models are Camry, LTD, Malibu and Sonata. Of course there are Mercedes (I like the S class), BMW, Porsche and I even saw a Rolls Royce. The Saudi's love a low maintenance car--which is why they like Toyota, Ford, Chevy and Hyundai--and parts for all these are easy to find in the Kingdom.
I mentioned that I'd like to get a VW Jetta. Some sighing. Some frowns. "Timothy this car requires maintenance--the parts are expensive--and only foreigners drive them." I thought the last part was funny--I am a foreigner. We we'll see what happens. Right now I have the company Toyota Corolla--not much power--to drive. Maybe next year.
At least now I have true freedom. Now I just need to figure out how to get places--because everything looks the same to me--brown with palm trees.
Oh and the photos I gave--none of them were used--some other photos of me were used. So I don't know what happened to these 5. And my blood type--remember it's O+-but somehow now it's B+--at least O is the universal donor.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Dhahran
This weekend Lenny, Kay and some of the gang decided to go to Dhahran. Really they had all gotten visas to go to Bahrain--but somehow I got forgotten about so I didn't have a visa to visit Bahrain. Lenny and Kay told me not to worry they would stay with me in Dhahran--which made me feel good. Bahrain is about 20 minutes from Dhahran so the expats will sometimes stay in Dhahran because it's cheaper (for us it was free).
So off we went on Wed. Now I like a good road trip. There's always road signs to read, small towns to go through, etc.. Not here. The only thing that changed was the color of the sand. There are no small towns to visit between Riyadh and Dhahran. We did stop at rest stops--they were pretty run down and sad looking. I never actually went into the bathrooms. Kay did and every time she also came out and put lots of nati-bacterial soap on her hands.
Lenny and Kay like to listen to books when they have a road trip--I feel asleep.
There was traffic--trucks with camels, sheep or horses in the back--actually lots of trucks. The truck drivers all looked kind of sad--maybe bored since there's nothing to see.
I did see camels in the desert and that was cool. They look like they're gliding and somehow elegant--but up close--ugly.
I also saw house--some of them looked gorgeous. But then who would live there? I also saw projects that were started and not completed, projects completed but the buildings are empty and signs for projects that might take off one day. All in all--not that exciting and the trip was about 4 hours.
We get to Dhahran. I was in this town 13 years ago. It was a sleepy little ocean side town. Not today. It's grown. It's nice. It's actually peaceful and the drivers don't seem as impatient.
We checked in at Jadawel East--the compound owned by Royal Saudi Air Force--just like ours. We got keys to a villa. I got keys to a villa and a room--someone else was staying at the villa too but I had my own room with tv and bathroom and never saw the other people. The villas in Dhahran are smaller than the ones in Riyadh.
That night we all went to the Carlton Hotel and ate Mexican. It was ok. Some were saying it was the best--but to me it was ok. Now the dessert! Wow! There was an international buffet and there was plenty of dessert left so the manager let us have free dessert.
I had a Boston Creme Pie type dessert and then a delish white cake with a blueberry glaze and some sort of light filling. They were both incredible.
The next day the rest of the gang went to Bahrain while Lenny, Kay and I stayed in Dhahran. We went to a store to buy silverware--the only mission Kay had. Then we went to Jarir--a bookstore and computer store combined--with English books. Then to a mall--a huge--huge mall. Then it was noon. At noon it's prayer time and all the stores close--at least in Riyadh--until 4 pm. So we went back to the villa and rested.
At 5ish we left and went to the beach. Wow! I loved the smell of the salt air--hearing the waves lap against the wall--seeing people fish--families having fun. Then we walked the corniche (I don't know what that means unless you're talking about a Rolls Royce--all I know is that this is an area that you can see the ocean and you walk around)--maybe it was cornice. Families walking, families eating, soccer playing--it was almost "normal" feeling. It could have been Long Beach CA (I have good memories of 2nd Street and awesome blonde with blue eyes walking with me--eventually she decided to marry me--yah me!). It was just so incredible.
Lenny told me that when they were planning to build the new Intel Center that Kay suggested it be built in Dhahran. Lenny brought that up to the General--who chuckled and said Kay was probably right--but it's being built in Riyadh.
The wind was blowing, the night was a cool 98 degrees and there was the smell of the ocean. It really was incredible.
We ate at TGIF--which is right on the beach. It was TGIF--just like the States only no alcohol. The food--delish--we even got ice-cream sundaes--delisher. This time I treated since Lenny and Kay have treated me a lot--and they've been super nice to me.
We got up on Friday morning. Met everyone in the Central Facility. Had breakfast. Talked about what we did the day before. Then got in our cars an came home--in a sand storm (I'll write about that later). But talk about a white out--and wind! I thought Dorothy and Toto were going to show up.
Next beach town to visit--Jeddah! But it'll still be Saudi Arabia (no movie theater--sigh).
So off we went on Wed. Now I like a good road trip. There's always road signs to read, small towns to go through, etc.. Not here. The only thing that changed was the color of the sand. There are no small towns to visit between Riyadh and Dhahran. We did stop at rest stops--they were pretty run down and sad looking. I never actually went into the bathrooms. Kay did and every time she also came out and put lots of nati-bacterial soap on her hands.
Lenny and Kay like to listen to books when they have a road trip--I feel asleep.
There was traffic--trucks with camels, sheep or horses in the back--actually lots of trucks. The truck drivers all looked kind of sad--maybe bored since there's nothing to see.
I did see camels in the desert and that was cool. They look like they're gliding and somehow elegant--but up close--ugly.
I also saw house--some of them looked gorgeous. But then who would live there? I also saw projects that were started and not completed, projects completed but the buildings are empty and signs for projects that might take off one day. All in all--not that exciting and the trip was about 4 hours.
We get to Dhahran. I was in this town 13 years ago. It was a sleepy little ocean side town. Not today. It's grown. It's nice. It's actually peaceful and the drivers don't seem as impatient.
We checked in at Jadawel East--the compound owned by Royal Saudi Air Force--just like ours. We got keys to a villa. I got keys to a villa and a room--someone else was staying at the villa too but I had my own room with tv and bathroom and never saw the other people. The villas in Dhahran are smaller than the ones in Riyadh.
That night we all went to the Carlton Hotel and ate Mexican. It was ok. Some were saying it was the best--but to me it was ok. Now the dessert! Wow! There was an international buffet and there was plenty of dessert left so the manager let us have free dessert.
I had a Boston Creme Pie type dessert and then a delish white cake with a blueberry glaze and some sort of light filling. They were both incredible.
The next day the rest of the gang went to Bahrain while Lenny, Kay and I stayed in Dhahran. We went to a store to buy silverware--the only mission Kay had. Then we went to Jarir--a bookstore and computer store combined--with English books. Then to a mall--a huge--huge mall. Then it was noon. At noon it's prayer time and all the stores close--at least in Riyadh--until 4 pm. So we went back to the villa and rested.
At 5ish we left and went to the beach. Wow! I loved the smell of the salt air--hearing the waves lap against the wall--seeing people fish--families having fun. Then we walked the corniche (I don't know what that means unless you're talking about a Rolls Royce--all I know is that this is an area that you can see the ocean and you walk around)--maybe it was cornice. Families walking, families eating, soccer playing--it was almost "normal" feeling. It could have been Long Beach CA (I have good memories of 2nd Street and awesome blonde with blue eyes walking with me--eventually she decided to marry me--yah me!). It was just so incredible.
Lenny told me that when they were planning to build the new Intel Center that Kay suggested it be built in Dhahran. Lenny brought that up to the General--who chuckled and said Kay was probably right--but it's being built in Riyadh.
The wind was blowing, the night was a cool 98 degrees and there was the smell of the ocean. It really was incredible.
We ate at TGIF--which is right on the beach. It was TGIF--just like the States only no alcohol. The food--delish--we even got ice-cream sundaes--delisher. This time I treated since Lenny and Kay have treated me a lot--and they've been super nice to me.
We got up on Friday morning. Met everyone in the Central Facility. Had breakfast. Talked about what we did the day before. Then got in our cars an came home--in a sand storm (I'll write about that later). But talk about a white out--and wind! I thought Dorothy and Toto were going to show up.
Next beach town to visit--Jeddah! But it'll still be Saudi Arabia (no movie theater--sigh).
Cento per Cento
Ever since I arrived the group I hang out with has talked about an Italian restaurant they loved eating at. One day one of the couples went to the place and it was closed. So for three months these expats have been trying to find the new location. It's been found.
I don't know what the other restaurant looked liked, how the staff was or how the good the food tasted but Cento per Cento is awesome. From the moment we drove up and the big glass doors were opened for us I knew it was going to be a great experience.
The restaurant is downtown Riyadh--and I mean downtown. We drove by it the first time--swung around and pulled into the parking lot. Somebody greeted us at the door, smiled and told us to go upstairs. Up these beautiful winding wooden stairs we went. When we entered the dining area--wow--awesome.
The floor is wooden, marble and tile. There were at least 10 private rooms (this way the women can unrobe and unveil and eat without us men staring at them). The rooms sat 4 to 10 people. Then there were 4 tables in the "open." However, these had sheer curtains that could be closed--in case the muttawa came in--so women could unrobe and unveil in these areas also. We sat in the open.
Each open table has a square chandelier above it, a huge couch that sits at least three and then three plush chairs on the other side of the table. It was just incredible.
The service was excellent--all of our food arrived at the same time--it was all warm--it was served to the women first and then the men--the glasses were kept full of whatever we were drinking--it was a class act.
The menu had a really good selection. We ordered two large salads--better than Olive Garden--and two large calamari to get us started. They also brought out bread with herb butter and a side of crushed olives.
Then we all ordered our main dish. I had spaghetti with shrimp and garlic--heaven! Kay ordered lasagna--and it looked really good--she said it had the perfect amount of sauce (it wasn't swimming in the sauce). Bob got pizza and he said it was really good. All I know is everybody got quiet and just ate and ate and ate.
THEN we decided to have dessert. Tiramisu and creme Brule--the presentation was incredible--I can't even begin to describe it. The desserts were so light and delish--I'm sure there were no calories.
One thing I haven't mentioned yet is the presentation. The china was so unique and so cool looking that all the food looked appetizing just sitting on it. Every time they brought us a dish we were just as excited to see what the china looked like as we were the food. It was a great evening.
Merl and Chris paid for all of us! That was so thoughtful of them. Then Merl looked at me "Time, do you think this is the place for Laurie." I got a little teary eyed inside--but I said "Yes--she's going to love this place. This is where we're coming the day after she gets here." And that's what I want to do--and this time it'll be my treat.
It was just surreal in a way to be in this desert--with the Desert Warriors and their wives--a bunch of us Americans--all eating at this plush Italian restaurant--Cento per Cento.
I don't know what the other restaurant looked liked, how the staff was or how the good the food tasted but Cento per Cento is awesome. From the moment we drove up and the big glass doors were opened for us I knew it was going to be a great experience.
The restaurant is downtown Riyadh--and I mean downtown. We drove by it the first time--swung around and pulled into the parking lot. Somebody greeted us at the door, smiled and told us to go upstairs. Up these beautiful winding wooden stairs we went. When we entered the dining area--wow--awesome.
The floor is wooden, marble and tile. There were at least 10 private rooms (this way the women can unrobe and unveil and eat without us men staring at them). The rooms sat 4 to 10 people. Then there were 4 tables in the "open." However, these had sheer curtains that could be closed--in case the muttawa came in--so women could unrobe and unveil in these areas also. We sat in the open.
Each open table has a square chandelier above it, a huge couch that sits at least three and then three plush chairs on the other side of the table. It was just incredible.
The service was excellent--all of our food arrived at the same time--it was all warm--it was served to the women first and then the men--the glasses were kept full of whatever we were drinking--it was a class act.
The menu had a really good selection. We ordered two large salads--better than Olive Garden--and two large calamari to get us started. They also brought out bread with herb butter and a side of crushed olives.
Then we all ordered our main dish. I had spaghetti with shrimp and garlic--heaven! Kay ordered lasagna--and it looked really good--she said it had the perfect amount of sauce (it wasn't swimming in the sauce). Bob got pizza and he said it was really good. All I know is everybody got quiet and just ate and ate and ate.
THEN we decided to have dessert. Tiramisu and creme Brule--the presentation was incredible--I can't even begin to describe it. The desserts were so light and delish--I'm sure there were no calories.
One thing I haven't mentioned yet is the presentation. The china was so unique and so cool looking that all the food looked appetizing just sitting on it. Every time they brought us a dish we were just as excited to see what the china looked like as we were the food. It was a great evening.
Merl and Chris paid for all of us! That was so thoughtful of them. Then Merl looked at me "Time, do you think this is the place for Laurie." I got a little teary eyed inside--but I said "Yes--she's going to love this place. This is where we're coming the day after she gets here." And that's what I want to do--and this time it'll be my treat.
It was just surreal in a way to be in this desert--with the Desert Warriors and their wives--a bunch of us Americans--all eating at this plush Italian restaurant--Cento per Cento.
Maid
As you all know I hired a maid--Maggie--or maybe she hired me. Anyway I received a phone call "Sir this is Maggie." "Maggie how are you?" "Good sir, I will come on Monday." "Awesome." So I left the side door unlocked. The agreement is 5 hours a week at SR20 an hour=SR100 a week=SR400 a month=$106 a month.
I called during the day to make sure she was at the house and had found the cleaning supplies--she was and she had. I was excited to get home to see how clean it was.
Wow! I walked in--everything had been dusted--every room and closet had been vacuumed--the dishes had been washed. The clothes in the dryer were nicely folded. Stuff had been put away in drawers and cabinets. It was awesome and worth the money. So far my impression of Maggie's cleaning is very good (I've heard horror stories). Maybe this week I'll even leave some shirts for her to iron. A maid--wow.
I called during the day to make sure she was at the house and had found the cleaning supplies--she was and she had. I was excited to get home to see how clean it was.
Wow! I walked in--everything had been dusted--every room and closet had been vacuumed--the dishes had been washed. The clothes in the dryer were nicely folded. Stuff had been put away in drawers and cabinets. It was awesome and worth the money. So far my impression of Maggie's cleaning is very good (I've heard horror stories). Maybe this week I'll even leave some shirts for her to iron. A maid--wow.
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