Al Heet Cave

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Typical Thurday--our Saturday

Today our day started at 0845—well really it started at 0630 when I turned on CNN and then watched Charles Gibson at 0700 and Katie Couric at 0730 (gotta hear the news). Right now it’s 1640 (440pm) and we just got home and Laurie and I might go back out again. So here’s what we did:

Left the house at 0845--
0915 arrived at Samba (a bank here)--they have a Ladies Branch were Laurie can cash her check—they didn’t open until 0930—we couldn’t wait since we had dental appts at 1030 (and I knew it would take at least 50 minutes to get there)
1000--arrived Dentist--got there sooner that I thought—Timmie had two teeth pulled, Laurie and I got our teeth cleaned (so laid back—he and his assistant were sitting on the back porch chatting and waiting for us—the best appt I’ve ever had)
1130--Basketball practice / game—this was the funniest game to watch
1310--We were back at Samba Ladies Branch thinking the branch was open until 1630—I had read the sign wrong—it closed at 1300
1312--Laurie suggested we go to Kingdom Mall—the third floor is an all women’s floor and there is a Samba branch there—maybe it would be open longer
1400--Arrived Kingdom Mall—Laurie went to the 3rd floor—the branch was closed—but she looked around a little—then came down the Debenhams to look for a sweater and coat—found a sweater and shirt but no coat (she may have to get a man coat—plenty of those and she used to wear mine)
Ate at the Mall—Laurie had Japanese and I had McDonalds (Timmie ate my fries)
1515--Went to Tamimi grocery store—it caters to the Western palate and richer Saudi’s expensive—bought a turkey ($5.00 a pound—paid $27 for a turkey--Butterball)—bought some delish chocolate croissants and other things—awesome ribeye steaks
1640—Back home
During all this we're in the same city--we never left Riyadh and we only go to part of Riyadh--traffic, lights, cars, parking, prayer--it all takes time. This is typical on the weekends—and not just us but everybody—especially if you have to grocery shop, return things (there are no dressing rooms—well we did find then in Debenhams at Kingdom Mall—but that’s the only place), etc.. AND we might go out after the 630 prayer—I love it here!

630pm--left the house again--decided to go to Riyadh Gallery
650--still in traffic--decided not to go to RG but instead to Hyatt, Jirar and Danube (they're all in the same place--mall, bookstore, grocery store)
Walked all over finding what we wanted
815--left the mall--got stuck in parking lot traffic
840--finally got out of parking lot traffic
930--arrived home
(Yawn--I'm tired)

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The Coins

In the US military there is a tradition of coins. The coins can tell a person what unit you are from, what job you do or organizations that you belong to. Being “coined” is a big deal in the USAF—it means that someone very senior thinks your work is outstanding—normally a General or a Chief Master Sergeant.
When I arrived at the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF) Headquarters and met General Faisal for the first time I gave him a coin. The coin I gave was the 315th Intelligence Officer coin. The General liked it and placed it on a table with other military mementos that he displays. General Faisal then asked me to help design a coin for his directorate. I smiled and said “Sure”—not realizing how long the process would be. I started this in June and finally completed the process in mid-Oct.
I contacted military coin companies in the US. One responded and told me that they had customers all over the world so shipping to Saudi was no big deal. Great. I even got a quote for 1,000 coins.
I took the quote to the General. Yes yes this is good. Ok now design a coin. I thought that should be easy.
I went through four designs before one was finally settled on. The winning design was the RSAF symbol on one side and the intelligence symbol on the other side. Then we had to decide the outer color. I chose green to go with the Saudi flag. That color was changed to blue, then white (Tim why is there so much white? Because you thought it would look god. No Tim this is terrible—please chose another color.) then back to blue. THEN the General decides that he wants to present a special coin to the people at the upcoming intel / security conference being held in Nov. No problem—but there were.
I could not find a decent conference logo from the year before. The guys searched their sites and folders—nothing good. I got some logos but when the company tried blowing then up—yuck. Finally, after three months a folder with the logo was found. I brought the folder home and had Laurie scan it—beautiful—finally the company had something they could use.
Now the coins have been ordered. The company sends me the proofs via e-mail. I send them to the General—it’s Oct. He likes them and tells me to order the amounts we want and tells me use the credit card he gave me. I order the amounts. I give the credit card number—it comes back with an error—the mailing address and billing address don’t match. I call the General and tell him not to worry I’ll use my credit card—after all what’s $4,020 to a rich American like me (HA!). He says Yes yes please Tim do this.
Just to make sure that my credit card will go through I call my credit card company and let them know. Then I call the coin company—all goes well.
Now the fun begins. The coins have been shipped. I have the tracking number. I e-mail the General. He calls me—he never e-mails he always calls. Good good—please track the coins Tim and let me when they arrive in Saudi.
The coins leave Alabama, now Ohio, New York, then to Germany then Bahrain. Bahrain—that’s only 45 minutes from where the General is at the conference. I call Bahrain and ask if we can pick them up—no. The nice lady assures me that the coins will be on the next flight to Riyadh--inshallah—and they are.
Yah! The coins are in Riyadh at the airport. They went through customs. They are scheduled for delivery. I get to work to see if they have been delivered—the delivery is on hold. On hold? Coins? I call.
I get a nice man but he doesn’t speak enough English to tell me the problem or give a solution. I get another man—he speaks great English but sounds doubtful that the coins will be released any time soon. I give the phone to one of the Colonels I work with. They speak in Arabic. The problem is that I’m civilian and the box says “military” which means I can’t have them. The solution is that I need a letter written on military letterhead and I have to accompained by a Saudi military man--then the coins will be released.
I call the General to let him know. Tim go talk to Col Fahid and let him know. Yes sir.
I go talk to Col Fahid—who gets a call from the General—yes yes, DHL, yes, Tim—ok.
An hour later a letter is typed, signed and stamped. An admin guy from the office is my driver—he speaks no English and I speak no Arabic—but the ride is nice.
We get to the airport and find DHL. The Saudi military guy signs papers, I show my ID, the coins—in two big boxes—are brought out—and on top is a big red sticker CUSTOMS DUE. Sigh—I pay 550 riyals ($147). They load the boxes in our official government vehicle and off we go back to RSAF HQ.
On the way to the HQ we get a phone call—go to the airbase—a plane is waiting to fly the coins to Dhahran.
We get on the airbase and find the plane—drive right up to it. The pilots shake our hands. The plane is what I call a General’s jet—a small private type plane—not a fighter jet. We give them the conference coins. I call the General. I tell him that I can’t hear him because the engines are running.
I get a call—while driving home—from the General. I expected a They’re nice or They’re ok. Instead I got Tim these are very very nice. Everybody likes them.
Saturday the General comes to work and calls me into his office. He asks me the amount—joking with me that I keep raising it—writes me a check—in Arabic. I take the check to the bank downstairs—I sign it and put my mobile number on it—I get lots of riyals—I’ve been paid in full.
That same day Col Fahid came into our office and gave us each two coins—one intel and one conference. They are nice. The intel one is probably the nicest that I’ve seen. It has so much detail to it—and the crowns on top look brilliant.
This coin story is finished. This was an adventure I wasn’t expecting. But now the RSAF has their very fist coin—maybe it’ll become a tradition.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Friend

Tonight we were in one of the malls—had just finished buying Timmie some pants (he’s become a GAP kid) and we were eating. We were chatting and looking around. I saw this Saudi man with his family. He was looking at me—a slight smile on his face and a small wave.
I looked—he seemed familiar—but who was he. I gave a small wave back. Laurie asked me if I knew the man. I was about to answer her that I wasn’t sure—and then….I realized who it was. It was a Saudi officer student of mine—when I used to instruct at Goodfellow. Then he was Capt Misfer—now he’s a Maj.
I’d never seen him in Saudi dress. He had the same easy going attitude and smile. He seemed happy to see us. He chatted with Timmie. Of course he and I chatted. I got to see Misfer’s three beautiful children. It was just awesome to see him.
Misfer asked me how long I’ve been in Saudi. I told him 6 months—he said it was time I started wearing a thobe. I chuckled at that.
He and his family and are going to be here for 4 months. Laurie and I are going to make a special effort to have them over.
Wow! It was awesome seeing a friendly and familiar face in the big bustling city of Riyadh.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Grocery Shopping

I’ve always loved grocery shopping—or I think I always loved it. Mom would take me to the grocery store and I thought it was awesome. The card store—with all the potpourri and candles—get me out of there (now I appreciate the card store). But there this is whole different adventure while shopping for food.
We normally shop at Carrefour (the second largest in the world) or Danube—both are French. The shelves are all nicely stocked. Danube seems nicer to us—cleaner and higher class—kind of like a Target in the States.
As I was shopping the other day and was in the fruits and vegetables section I looked around—food from everywhere. Potatoes from Lebanon, grapes from Syria, garlic from China, watermelons from Saudi, avocadoes from the US (or Saudi—and the Saudi ones are so good—and much cheaper than the US) and so on. It was the UN of food.
Then I wandered down the other aisles—Coca-Cola from Saudi, Campbell’s soup, cereals from the UK and US, candy from all over the world and pasta from Italy.
The cheese counter—I’ve never seen so many different types of cheese—from the UK, France, Denmark (British cheddar—awesome—melts very nicely on Sheppard’s pie. Then there’s the spreadable cheese—I’m kind of scared of that.
The water aisle has water from New Zealand—and it does taste good. Of course there’s Evian and there’s even water from Saudi.
It just amazes me the variety of foods—and it is a variety—you should all the different rice. I love going grocery shopping here—everything is so fresh. I made homemade chicken soup with fresh chicken from Saudi, potatoes from Lebanon, carrots from Australia and onions from…I forget and broth from Campbell’s. It was yum yum good!

Honk!

I know that every car comes with a horn. In the US I’ve even used the horn—but only on occasion. I used it mostly in San Angelo—I got tired of waiting while someone talked on their cell phone and the light was green OR waiting for that “mature” person to find to gas pedal (it’s on the right). But, only occasionally did I use the horn. I loved to hear the Mercedes horn—that was awesome and vintage.
Here in Riyadh honking the horn is part of life. I’ve been here six months now and have noticed that there are three types of honks—the “reminder”, irritation and mad.
The “reminder” is that—to remind the person that the light is green and it’s time to go—even the guy in the back honks (for some reason there’s a hesitation on going on green—not with me), to remind the person backing up not to hit you, that a person is gliding into your lane (they may not see the lines on the road and realize that there are only three lanes and not five), that you want to pass a person, etc.. The “reminder” is a nice gentle honk—or series of honks. No malice is meant—just little love taps.
The irritation is that—someone has irritated you and you want them to know. The driver came around the corner without looking (very common here), the person didn’t stop at the stop sign, the “Saudi sweep” happened (someone from the right lane decides they have to turn left and they “sweep” in front of the other cars going straight—lots of honking—very common), a driver changed lanes without using the signal (that depends on how close they cut you off). The irritation honk is longer—or may be a series of longer honks—it depends on the mood of the driver.
The mad honk—you know it. The horn is blasted for a long time. If the driver could up the volume he would. The mad honk isn’t a common occurrence but when it does occur—wow. The mad honk happens when someone in the left lane thinks you are going too slow and they want you out of the way (we’re going 120km and all the lanes are full—but I know you’re important). It can also happen when a car is backing up and not looking (just recently that happened to me—but nothing happened to my car). The mad honk could also happen when a car is zooming along and then cuts you off (I’ve heard some mad ones—and then the race is on). Again, the mad honk doesn’t happen often—but it does happen.
I used to not honk at all—it wasn’t polite. Then when Laurie and Timmie got here I honked all the time—as if I was now free to honk—forget politeness. I’ve toned down my honking—but I do honk. I wonder if I’ll honk when we come back and visit the US? Oh well—honk if you love Saudi—honk honk!

Monday, October 6, 2008

Happy Birthday Timmie!

Happy Birthday Timmy! Timmy turned 8 on 3 Oct—wow. When Timmie was born I told Laurie that if we could keep him alive for the first year then he’d be ok. Now he’s 8—and he’s an awesome young boy.
Timmie decided that he wanted “Chinese stuff" for his birthday. I didn’t even know what that meant—and we’re in Saudi not China. However, there is a Chinatown in two of the malls—and they do have "Chinese stuff." Off Laurie and I went—one night—to buy Timmy his “Chinese stuff.” We ended up buying him a jade dragon (he was born in the year of the dragon) and two Chinese lanterns. We also saw a globe that Timmie had been eyeing--so we got that also.
Then we went to SACO World—which is the Home Depot of the Kingdom. There we got him a new bike—very nice.
We discussed getting him a mobile—sometimes Laurie doesn’t ride the bus and sometimes I don’t leave the office right at 230. I wanted a way to get in touch with Timmie the days Laurie doesn’t ride the bus. So we decided to get him a mobile—nothing fancy. We let him pick it out but we set a price range—and of course we set some rules on when to use the phone. I’ve never seen a child so excited about getting a mobile. He wanted to put everyone’s number in it. He’s already taken a picture with it—a camel in the back of a truck—here in the city.
Timmy had a small birthday party with children from the compound over. Laurie organized games—she’s always great at that. Laurie created a ninja theme—in keeping with the “Chinese stuff.” The children had fun. Then there was a Krispy Kreme donut cake—pretty cool (the Krispy Kreme guy asked me today how Timmie enjoyed his donut cake). Presents were opened—and he got a lot of cool things from his friends. Then everybody went home—I was exhausted.
Wow—8 years old and a birthday party in Saudi—how awesome is that!
Happy Birthday Timme!

Happy Birthday to me

Happy Birthday me! I turned 43 on 22 Sept—awesome. Growing up I often thought that people 30 and above were old—except my parents. My parents always seemed youthful and energetic. They always seemed to be on the go—balls, dances an dinner parties. My parents never looked their age. Even when my Mom died she looked so young. Today at 63 my Dad still has that youthful look to him.
I asked Laurie if I looked any older—she said I had a few more grey hairs—but that I still looked youthful. That made me feel good—even though I saw a slight smile when she was telling me this.
If you though that me buying gifts for Laurie was a challenge—poor Laurie. I gave her the list and off we went—the whole family. I enjoyed seeing Laurie and Timmie buy my gifts. I’m glad I could help pick out my cake. Laurie told me how lame she felt. But really it was fun to me. This is still all new to us—and Ramadan kind of threw us a curve.
This is our first year for birthdays in the Kingdom—next year we’ll know not to look for Target or wait until the last minute. Next year it’ll be Ramadan again—so it’ll be another year of night shopping—but we’ll be better prepared.
But hey—I’m a youthful 43 years old—and you can’t buy that.