Al Heet Cave

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Coffee or Tea

We Americans are so rush rush rush. 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Do we ever slow down and enjoy life? Or do we try to cram life into the 30 days of vacation we get? I've traveled to a lot of countries in the 22 years I was in the Air Force and the one thing that I've noticed is that other countries slow down and enjoy life.
When I was in Italy there was a pizza place that made awesome pizza and had awesome shrimp and spinach. I was there one day picking up an order and said how much I liked the food. The girl told me thanks. I told her we would still be in Italy for another three weeks, etc.. Well she said they were closing for holiday. And they didn't close for just a week--they were closing for the month--everybody was going on holiday--the owner, the manager, the waiters, cooks--and all paid for the month. Now that's living.
Here I love going to what we call the site office (I'm not sure why we call it that). I work for a US company ATTI who has a contract with a Saudi company Advanced Electronics Company (AEC)that has a contract with the Royal Saudi Air Force (RSAF)--whew. AEC handles all my paperwork, pay, making sure that Laurie and Timmie get invited over, medical--everything. So I go to their office a lot--there's no such thing as e-mailing your request. But I really like going to their office.
When I walk in--and I've normally walked at least 1/2 mile in the dusty heat--they're all busy doing something--on the phone, filling out paperwork, filing something--just busy. But when I walk in they drop everything they're doing--"Timothy how are you today? Sit Timothy and have some tea--coffee--something to drink." I alway tell them "No" at first--I'm just here to drop something off or ask a question. "No Timothy surely you need something to drink." Then I get my water and they get some tea or coffee and we chat.
We chat about work, we chat about Timmie and Laurie. We chat about children, the weather--all sorts of things. Eventually we get to the reason I'm in the office--has my work permit come back yet, did my paycheck go to my US account (yes it did and Laurie is VERY happy), has the letter been sent for Laurie and Timmie to get their visa (no because I still don't have my work permit). Calls are made. Discussions in Arabic--sometimes heated. Then "Timothy we are working the situation. Tell me is there anything else I can help you with?"
It's just so laid back but civilized. I kind of like it--I don't like how long the process takes to get anything done. But these desert Warriors in their white thobes and red head dressing really do want to make sure you're feeling welcome in their office--coffee or tea--but for me water.
When I leave it's smiles and handshakes with promises that tomorrow something will happen--inshalla. Rashed normally walks me to the door, smiles his friendly smile, shakes my hand and asks if there really is anything else he can do. I always smile back and tell him that he's doing enough. More smiles, more promises of come back and have coffee or tea. Maybe I'll have my iqama Wed or Sat--inshalla. But I can always count on coffee or tea--or water for me.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Arabian Night

On Monday one of the Majors I work with said "Tim, you and King are invited to the party." Awesome--what party. The Major then talked to Lenny. The party was for Tues--that was all we knew at the time.
On Tues more info trickled down--information like we had to wear a suit and tie and rumors that some big two star Generals were going to be at the party. The time of the party was also given to us--830--Inshalla--in the evening was the start of the party. So Lenny picks me up in his 4-wheel drive at 745--we stay on the main roads since we're dressed up (no desert digging for us). We get to the place at830.
Wow! The restaurant looked like an old house built of straw and mud. There were some tables but mainly there were sections where men were just lounging around on the pillows and food and drinks are being brought to them. It was like being in a movie.
Our party had it's own private room. Remember these are men that I work with but this is the first time for me to see them in Saudi dress--they're always in their uniforms at work. It was just a little startling to see these desert warriors in their "normal" Saudi dress.
I walk into the private room and there's General Faisal--we found out it was just our work group that was at the party--lounging against the pillows. He gets up with a smile and shakes our hands and tells us to sit. I get to sit beside Zidan--my former student and now my friend. Oh I forgot to mention that before you sit you take off your shoes off outside the door.
So here I am a white boy from the South in my new grey suit, white shirt, the tie that Laurie picked out for me, in my socks sitting on the rugs and lounging against the pillows surrounded by Saudi men in their Saudi dress--wow! And all of them are speaking Arabic--except Z--he's speaking English to me to tell me about the history of Saudi, traditions, customs and a story about the trip he just took with his Mom (he really loves his Mom and I told him I love hearing stories about his family life--his Dad is obsessed with watching Fox News). It was just like being in an Indian Jones movie--or Lawrence of Arabia.
Drinks were ordered--they still find it amusing that I don't drink coffee or tea--and they ordered water for me--but the tea and coffee do smell really good. More chatting. Now the dates are brought out--sweet dates--and we eat them--and more talking. We got there at 830 and now it's 1030. Finally the main course arrives.
I've never seen so much food. Not even at a pot luck. First all of our plates are brought in--metal plates painted with flowers and other designs--then the cups, and silverware (yes they brought silverware) and finally four huge--and I mean huge--platters of rice with veggies and meat, bowls of more meat and veggies and then bowls with what looked like refried beans (Z told me that it was veggies mashep up with wheat). Everybody gets close to the food, sits crosslegged and just starts digging in--and the talking stops (except Z who was still telling me things--General Faisal smiled and told Z to be quiet so I could eat). Oh and the bread--wow the bread. Eat Tim eat. "Tim I told you not to eat breakfast or lunch"--General Faisal--"and what did you do." I ate two donuts"--me--laugher from everybody. We're eating and eating. I was told some of it was lamb and that some was camel--all I can say it that it was all delish!
So we're finished eating the main course and now we're drinking Pepsi and water and back to lounging againt the pillows. More tea. Now dessert. I get a coconut type pudding--and it was delish but I couldn't finish it all. I look at my watch at it's 1130. I ask General Faisal if we all get to come to work later--in my smiling kidding voice. The whole room laughs and the General with a smile on his face "Tim you have to be at work at 0630 to open" --more laughter.
Things start winding down. People are shaking hands with the General and I hear my name and chuckles--it was about coming in late. Lenny and I leave around midnight--Z walks us to our car--and we get home at 1230. Work starts at 0700 and we leave here around -0630--yawn--it's been a busy evening and I only have about 5 hours to sleep. But I couldn't go to sleep until I called Laurie and Timmie and told them about my Arabian Night.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Carrefore

Today I took the compound bus to the Granada Mall. The mall itself is modest in size by Saudi standards. But it has one store that I've been wanting to explore--Carrefore.
Carrefore is like the Wal-Mart of Saudi--food, clothes, toys, camping (yes camping and a good selection) and electronics. Something for everyone.
So today I had three hours to explore. Wow! I loved it. The prices are comparable or cheaper than the US--the only really expensive food was salmon (but the local fish was cheap--with the eyes and everything). I wandered down every aisle--yes every including the makeup aisle (and they have a good selction).
The food! Wow--fresh breads, the pastry chef is an expert and puts HEB to shame, fresh spices, and rows and rows of canned goods, cereals and potatoe chips. In the freezer section there weren't any Lean Cuisine but there were a number of frozen items--vegeable, hot dogs, meatball, chicken--the interesting thing is none of them have microwave directions--it's all put some oil in a pan and re-heat them--but I'm using a microwave. The Saudis seem to love their ice-cream as a good variety was in the freezer section and they must love their french fries--including waffle fries. I saw steak, beef tips, chicken, etc.. More cheese than the US--inlcuding a variety of cream cheeses (some with lime and lemon, etc..) It's a great store.
You can buy your mobile (cell phone in the US) and they have a huge variety from cheap to expensive. They also are very in tune with the flat screen LCD televisions--plenty of those.
I didn't buy that much but what I really wanted to do was to see what Carrefore had--and now I know. So when I finally get to drive I'm going to have a great time spending some money stocking the fridge and freezer and maybe buying some other things for the mansion--I mean house.

Saudi Dress

As I was sitting in the Granada Mall today I looked around and wondered what it was about Saudi that made the people seem so foreign. For me it's the way they dress. When you come to Saudi or see pictures the men are in the white thobs with the red headress and black rope and the women are covered in black from head to toe. We expect that--but at the same time I think it makes us uneasy.
The men have a variety of clothes they can wear. There are Levis, Nike, Reebok, Timberland, etc.. But instead the majority wear the white thobe, headress and black rope. It's their culture. It's what they're used to wearing . But the clothes are so foreign. And yet the men look regal and warrior like in their thobe, etc.. I think that's what it is--we see someone that looks like a warrior and we're afraid. If they would just wear a pair of jeans it might put us at ease. But the Saudi men I've encourted have been very courteous, very nice and always willing to help. But there is a temper, an opinion, their way of doing something--all right on the edge--the warrior coming out.
The women on the other hand are just mysterious looking. They are covered from head to toe in black--with their eyes showing. They aren't warrior looking. Not really regal. They're just mysterious. What the heck are they wearing under that black? What does their face look like? I've caught a glimpse of jeans before. The malls are full of shops with the latest fashions--so the Saudi woman can very well dressed--they even have a Victoria's Secret type store in the mall. Today at the mall there was a woman of wealth and confidence--her high heels clicking on the marble and her face covered in a thin veil (like the kind brides wear on their wedding day). She stood straight and her abyaa fit her well--she was slender. But still she was mysterious.
I guess that's what fascinates me about Saudi--the dress. The men looking both regal and warrior. While the women in their black just look mysterious.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Stuck

Lenny took me around Riyadh last weekend--Thursday to be exact. Riyadh is huge and like most people that live in huge cities you find an area you like and stick to it. The area most expats enjoy on this compound is close with two malls, plenty of grocery stores, KFC, Hardees, Pizza Hut, Pizza Pizza and Applebees to name a few place they enjoy visiting.
Lenny was showing me around and saw that they were building a new road. So we--or he--decided to go off-roading in the desert. Lenny has a Chevy something--I know it has 4-wheel drive so I felt secure. When we got to the site Lenny told me to act like we were supposed to be their--so I did lloking out the window with my dark sunglasses on and my mouth wide open saying "Look at that..and that..and that." We drove all over the site and not one person stopped us. Then we came to a dirt barrier. But hey we have 4-wheel drive and so...Well we didn't make it. We got stuck! The truck was on top of the dirt barrier with all four wheels moving and none of them touching. We get out of the truck and look things over--hey it's dirt and there are two of us and it's not 100 degrees yet.
So we start to dig and dig. Nothing--the wheels still spin. Out of nowhere two non-Saudis appear-- don't think they spoke English but they could see our situation. Lenny gave them some rope. They hooked it to his bumper and their big Mercedes truck--the rope snapped. They doubled it--snapped again. They braided it--snapped again. By this time more people were around us discussing what to do. They found some heavy metal rods and bent the ends--they broke. We've been doing this for about 30-45 minutes now. It's hot. We're dusty. My shoes are dusty and so are my pants. Then they all leave. Lenny and I start digging again with our hands and feet and the broken steel rod.
In about twenty minutes the two original guys show back up. This time they have a heavy duty steel "rope." They hook it up to the vehicles and give the Mercedes truck some gas and we're off the dirt barrier. We give them each 20SR--something like $5 each--they refuse but we make them take it. I ask permission to take their picture--they let me. I told them they were my heroes for the day.
Lenny continued to show me the city. But nothing beat being stuck in the desert, not being able to speak the language and still having people that were willing to help us. Wow what an adventure! Did I mention I saw camels?

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Luggage

I have it! After 5 days of no luggage I have it. It's the little things you miss when traveling/living in a foreign country--clean clothes, Fusion razor blades, Noxema--it's great to have it all now.
So here's what happened. I flew out of San Angelo 29 Apr on Continental with my baggage checked to JFK. When I finally arrived at JFK--hours and hours later--my luggage didn't come off the plane. There I was staring at the convayer belt as if by magical powers I could summon my luggage to appear out of nowhere--the belt just going and going and I'm the only one standing there. I went to the Continental luggage office--closed. I went upstairs to information--sent me to the 4th floor. Went to the 4th floor--couldn't help me but called the luggage people and told me to go back to baggage and someone would help me. Back I went.
Sure enough someone helped me. She told me that my luggage would be on the next flight and wouldn't arrive until 830 that evening--my Air India plane was leaving at 745. But I was assured the luggage would catch up with me. So I got on Air India with confidence in Continental and the baggage system. By the way Air India is awesome! Lots of leg room and head room. TV for everyone and you play whatever you want. Enjoyed it.
I get to London and decide to call the European 800 number for Continental. The nice lady told me that my luggage had been sent back to Houston! Houston! I was sure she meant Heathrow--but she said Houston. This nice lady told me that my luggage would go back to JFK and then London and finally Riyadh--all I had to do was log on to the internet and I could track my luggage since I had the special code.
I arrived in Riyadh with my carry on, suit jacket and 2 sport coats. I had one pair of jeans in the carry on and two shirts and one pair of ...you know...along with two pair of socks and some travel size shampoo, toothpaste, etc... I was good for two days.
I looked at the internet on Day Two and it showed my bags were here. So I had someone take me to the airport. We went to Terminal 1 and explained--they kindly let me in. I looked and looked--no luggage. Of course not because Terminal 1 was BMI--silly me I was supposed to be in Terminal 2 for Saudi Air--the airlines that brought the luggage.
Terminal 2 there were more nice people. They allowed me to look. No luggage--and if you're a type A you're going crazy. They looked in their computer--my luggage was in Terminal 1 with BMI. So back I go to Terminal 1.
The nice guys in Terminal 1 made me explain myself all over. Asked me about my flight. Why would BMI have my luggage? And so on. Finally one of them looked on their computer and printed off the flight information of my luggage--it had more travel miles than I did--and they gave me the name of the supervisor.
Day Three without luggage--I call the supervisor and explain everything to him. Well it's obvious my luggage is in Terminal 2 with Saudi Air and there is nothing he can do. Call back tomorrow and he'll have more information for me.
Day Four--I call back. Now I have to fax him all my flight information, baggage claims, etc.. So I do--but he was gone by the time I faxed it--my fault I should have known he was leaving early.
Day Five--I call again--he recognizes my voice and calls me Tim. No he did not get the fax--of course not because I faxed it to his secretary and he hasn't given the fax to his boss. The boss looks it over and tells me he will do what he can but that it will take time--hey I've got plenty of that. A few hours later I get a phone call--my luggage has been found! "Tim, your luggage has been located and it is near the women's toliet in Terminal 1. No I cannot deliver it." So I get someone--Lenny my new boss--to take me back out to the airport. I get to Terminal 1--why would my luggage be there? It is probably in Terminal 2. I convince the guy to just let me look and he does. There's my luggage--and I forgot my baggage claim tickets--but no one asks for them. I get my luggage x-rayed, track Lenny down and say "Let's get out of here."
I know I told Laurie it was just stuff. But it wasn't just stuff. It was framed pictures of her andTimmie and my Mom and Dad. It was book that Timmie gave me for my birthday with his signature in it. It was a powercord for my new laptop so I can communicate with Laurie and Timmie (I still haven't hooked that up but that's another issue). It was comfortable sheets for the bed that remind me of our house in San Angelo. It was my scriptures and a Church hymn book that my Dad and Myrna gave me as a gift years ago. It was a smells and memories of San Angelo, my family and my friends. It was more than stuff--it made me feel better and closer when I'm so far away from all that is familiar. I got my luggage!

Monday, May 5, 2008

Birds

There are so many things I could complain about--especially my missing luggage that no airline wants to take responsibility for (but I think I'm making progress--at least they all know my name now) but today I want to complain about birds.
I have this huge villa--beautifully furnished and decorated--with a nice backyard area that has a small but inviting pool. The problem is this--every night the birds roost on the roof and poop all over the area in front of the back door. It's just gross. When I first moved in there was plastic down and it was obvious that this villa had been vacant for some time. I spent two hours getting rid of the plastic sheet and hosing down the entire backyard--getting rid of all that poop.
The hose in the back is falling apart and the pool guy uses it when he comes to clean the pool (I'm so pampered). I already broke the hose and somehow it got put back together so I don't want to upset the pool guy by breaking his hose again. But the amount of poop is gross. Since I don't have a driver license yet I'm at the mercy of those kind enough to take me places. Oh well I guess I'll deal with until I get a hose, some cover for the back porch and maybe a fake owl from Laurie.
Now about my luggage..........