Most of you know that we live on a Western compound (I really hate that word--makes me think of being in prison) in a huge villa with a pool. The compound is like a small town with a restaurant, very small grocery store, huge public pool, gym, etc.. We have workers all over that take care of everything--trimming trees, mowing, sweeping the streets, changing your light bulbs, taking down your curtains for cleaning and then putting them back up, people will deliver your groceries and food and on and on. It's a fantasy life here and if we're not careful we get caught up in believing it's real.
The other day I was talking with Peggy--a friend of ours. Her husband's company provides them with a car, Lincoln Town Car Signature Series, and a driver. Neither Peggy nor Ron really wanted a driver--but they got one. They also live on a nice Western compound. They're used to the driver now. He takes Ron to work and then goes back to their villa and waits for Peggy to go out. When she goes out he waits for her to finish shopping and takes her wherever else she needs to go and then he picks Ron up from work.
Peggy was telling me that a few months ago when her Mom was here visiting they went shopping. When they finished and were walking towards the door Peggy's Mom asked her how the driver knows to pick her up. Peggy said she just looked at her Mom--she had never thought about that--the driver just shows us and puts things in the car for her. We started laughing at the story because it's so bizarre to us regular people to have a driver. I mean Trump, Bloomberg and the President I know they need drivers--they're running billion dollar companies and a country--time is money and time is precious. But us?
Laurie and I have a part-time Maid, Maggie, and a gardener, Rajenda. When I come home on Monday I smile--the house smells so clean and fresh. The carpet has been vacuumed, dishes washed, bathrooms (6 of them) cleaned and everything dusted (except the blinds). Maggie also comes in 4 other days to clean up the kitchen and make the beds. I love having Maggie come over. I know I pay her but there's something nice about having someone take care of things for you. When I feel lazy I leave the dishes in the sink knowing that Maggie will clean them. I feel awful that I admitted that. But I really do appreciate Maggie and can't think of what life would be like without her. When I see Maggie on the compound I always smile and wave and she always smiles and waves back.
Our gardener, Rajenda, is a humble man from Nepal. He has a family there and the extra money he makes from me and some others he sends home. Rajenda takes care of watering the plants and hosing down the tile in the backyard (cleaning the bird poop). He even cleans up after I BBQ if I've left a mess. Rajenda washes my car at least once a week--but more if he feels like it needs it.
Last week after we came back from Bahrain the car was dirty. We didn't get home until 930pm. I wasn't worried about driving a "dirty" car. The next day was work. I get in the car and drive it to work. About half way there I realized that Rajenda had cleaned the car. But when did he do this--late Fri, early Sat? I don't know but he took care of me--and I've gotten used to it.
Here on our compound most people have a maid and gardener. I think most of us do need the maid with these huge villas. But most of us could take care of our own small yards--I used to mow our yard in Texas and Fl and that required more effort than watering--what am I doing with a gardener. I used to wash and wax my Merceds at least once a week--and here I've never even washed the car much less wax it.
Yet this is the life here. And it's not just on the compounds--this is how the Saudi life is. Saudi life is even more fantasy. When you go to a fast food restaurant you don't clean off your table--someone else will. When you're driving and throw some trash on the ground--someone will pick it up. If you don't want to carry your stuff to the car--someone else will. If you want something delivered--every store does and they unpack it, put it together and put it where you want and the list goes on and on.
We were in Bahrain last month and ate at Dairy Queen--yum. We got up to leave and didn't throw away our trash. Then we stopped--where was the person cleaning off the table--oh we're supposed to. So we went back and cleaned it off.
The Saudi life has pampered us. But we also know the extra money we give Maggei and Rajenda helps their families to have a higher standard of living (we're helping stimulate the international economy). We really do appreciate all that Maggie and Rajenda do for us. We tell them Thank you all the time. But it is a fantasy life here and you aren’t careful you begin to believe it’s real.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Wild Wicked Weather
The weather in Riyadh has been crazy the last two months. It started with the huge sandstorm that got international press--the worst sandstorm in 30 years or more. I was sitting in my office at the RSAF. General Faisal comes in "Tim, Lenny go to the window there is a storm." We get up and hurry to a window. By the time we got there the sand had overtaken the building. Outside it was red and orange as if the outside was on fire and we were being protected--like a sci-fi movie. The guys showed us what the sandstorm looked like as it came down the street--right out of a Hollywood movie special effects. We left work early and it was like driving in fog--you could hardly see in front of you. Laurie said that some parents were coming to get their children out of school early. Wild.
Then a few days later it rained--which is unusual for this time of year in Riyadh. It wasn't a sprinkle--it was a nice thunder and lightning rain. It washed away the dust and cleaned all the trees. It also flooded areas of Riyadh--then they send trucks to suck up all the water so traffic can flow again. It rained for two evenings--very nice.
After the rains the weather seemed to calm down the sun came out and the ground started drying up. People were enjoying the nice sunny warm days.
Then the winds came. It just started getting windy one day. And with the wind it got chilly. Not freezing--to us it was because anything below 70 is cold. It did drop down to the 50's--people were wearing their gloves and scarf’s. The wind blew for two days--The Wizard of Oz type wind (before the tornado). I was wishing we had a dog named Toto just in case we blew away. Wicked.
Then the winds stopped, no more rain and the sand was settled. The temp was rising to 90--all seemed right. Yesterday a sandstorm. Laurie and I walked out to the car and there was sand everywhere. We decided to pick Timmie up from Taekwondo instead of letting him come home on his bike. We went and picked him up. The wind and sand were crazy.
Last night I went out with the guys. Had a dinner party at a straha (I didn't spell it right but it's a place you rent and then invite your family and friends and have a party--this one had a very small pool, small volleyball court, tent for dining and a room with couches--very nice). There was a gentle cool breeze--as if there had never been the sandstorm one hour earlier. Crazy.
All my Saudi guys were even saying that weather has been crazy this year. The US military put out a warning that wicked weather may be here until May. They also warned that the weather this year has been very unusual. Yeah--wild wicked weather--what an adventure.
Then a few days later it rained--which is unusual for this time of year in Riyadh. It wasn't a sprinkle--it was a nice thunder and lightning rain. It washed away the dust and cleaned all the trees. It also flooded areas of Riyadh--then they send trucks to suck up all the water so traffic can flow again. It rained for two evenings--very nice.
After the rains the weather seemed to calm down the sun came out and the ground started drying up. People were enjoying the nice sunny warm days.
Then the winds came. It just started getting windy one day. And with the wind it got chilly. Not freezing--to us it was because anything below 70 is cold. It did drop down to the 50's--people were wearing their gloves and scarf’s. The wind blew for two days--The Wizard of Oz type wind (before the tornado). I was wishing we had a dog named Toto just in case we blew away. Wicked.
Then the winds stopped, no more rain and the sand was settled. The temp was rising to 90--all seemed right. Yesterday a sandstorm. Laurie and I walked out to the car and there was sand everywhere. We decided to pick Timmie up from Taekwondo instead of letting him come home on his bike. We went and picked him up. The wind and sand were crazy.
Last night I went out with the guys. Had a dinner party at a straha (I didn't spell it right but it's a place you rent and then invite your family and friends and have a party--this one had a very small pool, small volleyball court, tent for dining and a room with couches--very nice). There was a gentle cool breeze--as if there had never been the sandstorm one hour earlier. Crazy.
All my Saudi guys were even saying that weather has been crazy this year. The US military put out a warning that wicked weather may be here until May. They also warned that the weather this year has been very unusual. Yeah--wild wicked weather--what an adventure.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Futball---Soccer
In the US we call it soccer--the rest of the world calls it futball. It's ok to go with the flow--but then what would we call football--...
I'm not a big soccer fan--well I wasn't. Timmie was on a soccer team recently and I went to all of his games--there were only 6. It was nice. I enjoyed them. Timmie has talked about soccer since school started--we even bought him a soccer ball. Almost all the guys in his class play soccer--and they're good at it.
Recently Timmie asked me if I would buy him a Manchester United shirt. We went and looked at the price...$$$.. Wow. I told him maybe later. Timmie said ok. I found out that he told his Mom that he was saving his money to buy the shirt because he knew it was expensive. What a great son. Timmie had to get another tooth extracted and once again did it with no complaining. So when Laurie and I went shopping we bought him the shirt--he was with a sitter. When we got home and gave him the shirt he got the biggest smile--it was like the movies..hugs, kisses, thank you...what a great son.
I'm teaching 15 officers and they love soccer--like all Saudi's. There was a game being played at the stadium and they invited me to go with them. Here I am 43 being invited by these young 20 something year olds. Of course I'll go. They asked me what time I usually go to bed. I told them around 10 or 11--that caused some concern since the game wouldn't start until about 8 and end at 11ish and then we had to eat dinner. I assured them that I could stay out until midnight...but then I would start to get very tired. Smiles and ok.
The guys (Mohamed, Adel, Turki and Osama) came and picked me up at the compound. All were wearing jeans and were ready to host me. We parked across from the stadium so we had to cross two roads--they made sure we crossed together and all made it. We arrived at 5 to make sure we got good seats. We sat at the very top--what a walk (whew) and what a view (wow).
There was excitement in the air. The stadium was pretty full. All of us regular people sitting in the blue seats. Then there are the yellow seats for those that want to pay more and then of course the Royal Box (and one of the Prince's was there that evening--that is kind of wow).
All the guys were singing, clapping and dancing--this sea of white thobes and dark hair--it was a sight. The noise level was very loud--everybody is excited. It was Riyadh versus Jeddah.
Then a dust storm--sand everywhere--hair, clothes, nose, etc.. There was concern that the game would be delayed--but it wasn't. The game started on time.
I really got into it. The next thing I knew the first half was over. Over? It seemed they had only started to play. Now it was time for a 15 minute break.
Mohammed wanted me to meet one of his friends so we went to find the friend. Found him and had a nice chat. From the moment I entered the stadium until we left I was greeted with hello's, how are you, etc..I was the only American and I think the only non-Saudi at the game..it was kind of cool.
Finally the second half starts. A goal--now each team has one. Jeddah gets another and the game is over. I couldn't believe the game was over and it was time to leave.
We leave. Calls are made on mobiles to locate everyone. Two of the guys always stayed with me--to make sure I wasn't jostled or anything.
We get to the car. It's after 11. A discussion on where to go for dinner ensued. They really wanted to take me to an Indian restaurant..but it was too late for that. Then TGI Friday’s was mentioned..but again they were afraid the food wouldn’t arrived in time for to be home by midnight. I told them that if they wanted they could take me home...no..we had to have dinner. We ended up going to McDonald's--fast. They got me home by midnight.
I had a GREAT time. My hosts were awesome. They made sure I was comfortable and was enjoying myself. They even smuggled in water--hid it in their shirts. I am so grateful to them for taking me to the game and so grateful for their kindness and hospitality. The Saudi's can really be a generous people--you just have to get to know them.
Now I enjoy futball. I watch some on TV--not a whole game--but some. Timmie is really getting into now. There's a match between North Korea and another team being held here in Riyadh in May. I really want to go to that one..can you imagine--North Korea. Rumor is that women can go. I'm not sure that I would want to take Laurie. I suppose if we sat in the expensive yellow seats--but then I'd miss the clapping, singing and dancing...the blue seats have more fun. If you’re not a fan…watch some on TV. But to really enjoy the game go see a match live and then hopefully you too will become a fan of futball.
I'm not a big soccer fan--well I wasn't. Timmie was on a soccer team recently and I went to all of his games--there were only 6. It was nice. I enjoyed them. Timmie has talked about soccer since school started--we even bought him a soccer ball. Almost all the guys in his class play soccer--and they're good at it.
Recently Timmie asked me if I would buy him a Manchester United shirt. We went and looked at the price...$$$.. Wow. I told him maybe later. Timmie said ok. I found out that he told his Mom that he was saving his money to buy the shirt because he knew it was expensive. What a great son. Timmie had to get another tooth extracted and once again did it with no complaining. So when Laurie and I went shopping we bought him the shirt--he was with a sitter. When we got home and gave him the shirt he got the biggest smile--it was like the movies..hugs, kisses, thank you...what a great son.
I'm teaching 15 officers and they love soccer--like all Saudi's. There was a game being played at the stadium and they invited me to go with them. Here I am 43 being invited by these young 20 something year olds. Of course I'll go. They asked me what time I usually go to bed. I told them around 10 or 11--that caused some concern since the game wouldn't start until about 8 and end at 11ish and then we had to eat dinner. I assured them that I could stay out until midnight...but then I would start to get very tired. Smiles and ok.
The guys (Mohamed, Adel, Turki and Osama) came and picked me up at the compound. All were wearing jeans and were ready to host me. We parked across from the stadium so we had to cross two roads--they made sure we crossed together and all made it. We arrived at 5 to make sure we got good seats. We sat at the very top--what a walk (whew) and what a view (wow).
There was excitement in the air. The stadium was pretty full. All of us regular people sitting in the blue seats. Then there are the yellow seats for those that want to pay more and then of course the Royal Box (and one of the Prince's was there that evening--that is kind of wow).
All the guys were singing, clapping and dancing--this sea of white thobes and dark hair--it was a sight. The noise level was very loud--everybody is excited. It was Riyadh versus Jeddah.
Then a dust storm--sand everywhere--hair, clothes, nose, etc.. There was concern that the game would be delayed--but it wasn't. The game started on time.
I really got into it. The next thing I knew the first half was over. Over? It seemed they had only started to play. Now it was time for a 15 minute break.
Mohammed wanted me to meet one of his friends so we went to find the friend. Found him and had a nice chat. From the moment I entered the stadium until we left I was greeted with hello's, how are you, etc..I was the only American and I think the only non-Saudi at the game..it was kind of cool.
Finally the second half starts. A goal--now each team has one. Jeddah gets another and the game is over. I couldn't believe the game was over and it was time to leave.
We leave. Calls are made on mobiles to locate everyone. Two of the guys always stayed with me--to make sure I wasn't jostled or anything.
We get to the car. It's after 11. A discussion on where to go for dinner ensued. They really wanted to take me to an Indian restaurant..but it was too late for that. Then TGI Friday’s was mentioned..but again they were afraid the food wouldn’t arrived in time for to be home by midnight. I told them that if they wanted they could take me home...no..we had to have dinner. We ended up going to McDonald's--fast. They got me home by midnight.
I had a GREAT time. My hosts were awesome. They made sure I was comfortable and was enjoying myself. They even smuggled in water--hid it in their shirts. I am so grateful to them for taking me to the game and so grateful for their kindness and hospitality. The Saudi's can really be a generous people--you just have to get to know them.
Now I enjoy futball. I watch some on TV--not a whole game--but some. Timmie is really getting into now. There's a match between North Korea and another team being held here in Riyadh in May. I really want to go to that one..can you imagine--North Korea. Rumor is that women can go. I'm not sure that I would want to take Laurie. I suppose if we sat in the expensive yellow seats--but then I'd miss the clapping, singing and dancing...the blue seats have more fun. If you’re not a fan…watch some on TV. But to really enjoy the game go see a match live and then hopefully you too will become a fan of futball.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Rambles
Has it really been two months since I posted anything? Shame on me--ha--I really am busy living the Saudi life. And what a life it still is.
So what's been happening? Well.....we went to Bahrain again. This time we stayed at the Inter Con (that's the cool way of saying the InterContinental) Hotel--another 5 star. It was really nice--not as posh as the Ritz--but very nice. We arrived on Thursday and I thought I was going to go insane with all the traffic and no left turns--all right turns (darn those British). After getting irritated, lost, discouraged I asked Laurie to please call the hotel---she did--"We're on Lulu" "Yes it is busy..." "Yes" Yes" "Ok see you soon." That was all I heard. BUT 15 minutes later we were checking in at the hotel (and Lulu really was busy). That same day we went to a movie, walked around a mall and ate out. Slept good that night.
The next day was Friday--Church day. Bahrain has a building and Church members can meet openly--no missionary work. We had been given directions. Laurie even downloaded the address. So off we went. One hour later we finally found the building. They are so NICE! They invited us to stay for potluck—they had had a potluck a few days before with Elder and Sis Holland…they were visiting all the wards and branches in our Stake---all of them. So now we know when potlucks are and next time we will stay--we might even bring something.
That same day Laurie said she looked terrible--hair, face, nails, etc...She left the room and three hours later she came back feeling much better--and wow she looked awesome (her toenails were painted a nice red--yummy).
We went shopping on base on Sat and got some real US Wonder bread--soft, delish, white bread---ummmmmmm...it's gone now. We bought some other items and came back to Riyadh.
The drive to Bahrain took us three hours--I was speeding--going between 85 and 95 (the speed limit is 75)--I was just going with the flow of traffic. Coming back there was a sandstorm and it took us about 5 hours--and the front license plate has no more paint on it.
What else? Timmie is now a green belt. He passed his test and we're so proud of him. Timmie is also playing soccer and learning the game. He's in there playing and we're proud of him for that too. Timmie was also invited to a Saudi birthday party.
Now most b-day parties in the States are held at home, Mr. Gatti's, maybe take a friend to the movie. Here they have them at the malls--because all the malls have an amusement park for the children--some lavish and some small. I dropped Timmie off--the Moms came over and fussed over him. It was a 2 hour party so I wandered around the mall. Then I got bored and went to watch Timmie and his friends. I suddenly felt jealous. I realized I was barred from the party--because only the Mama's were allowed. In the States I would have been chatting and helping out--but here I can't. It irritated me and then I realized that this must be how Western women feel. It was very interesting to me.
Finally--well not finally since we had a visitor from Utah come and visit us--and that was incredible—read above!
Ok--finally--Laurie and I celebrated 10 years of marriage!!! Yay us! Wed night I went out with a new guy to "old" Riyadh--where you can bargain, etc.. I wanted to get Laurie a pashmini (sp) shawl and some jewelry (we were poor last year for our anniv). I found some beautiful shawls and bought two--then the man gave me one for free--I protested and told him that it was much too beautiful to give me--I offered to pay--but he smiled and packed it in my bag. I really was moved by that and almost hugged him--but now I'll be buying the shawls from him.
Then I went to the gold souk and found some earrings and necklace for Laurie--nothing Saudi gaudy--simple Laurie instead. I gave my gifts to Laurie the next day and she was pleasantly surprised. Then she gave me a beautiful poem that described the past 10 years--I got really teary eyed--my voice even choked up. Laurie's gift to me was so much better than anything I bought her.
In one month I will have been in Saudi for a year. It has been an amazing adventure and still continues to be.
Now we're planning our trip back to the States. Ahhh..the South in the summer...humidity and heat...we can't wait.
So what's been happening? Well.....we went to Bahrain again. This time we stayed at the Inter Con (that's the cool way of saying the InterContinental) Hotel--another 5 star. It was really nice--not as posh as the Ritz--but very nice. We arrived on Thursday and I thought I was going to go insane with all the traffic and no left turns--all right turns (darn those British). After getting irritated, lost, discouraged I asked Laurie to please call the hotel---she did--"We're on Lulu" "Yes it is busy..." "Yes" Yes" "Ok see you soon." That was all I heard. BUT 15 minutes later we were checking in at the hotel (and Lulu really was busy). That same day we went to a movie, walked around a mall and ate out. Slept good that night.
The next day was Friday--Church day. Bahrain has a building and Church members can meet openly--no missionary work. We had been given directions. Laurie even downloaded the address. So off we went. One hour later we finally found the building. They are so NICE! They invited us to stay for potluck—they had had a potluck a few days before with Elder and Sis Holland…they were visiting all the wards and branches in our Stake---all of them. So now we know when potlucks are and next time we will stay--we might even bring something.
That same day Laurie said she looked terrible--hair, face, nails, etc...She left the room and three hours later she came back feeling much better--and wow she looked awesome (her toenails were painted a nice red--yummy).
We went shopping on base on Sat and got some real US Wonder bread--soft, delish, white bread---ummmmmmm...it's gone now. We bought some other items and came back to Riyadh.
The drive to Bahrain took us three hours--I was speeding--going between 85 and 95 (the speed limit is 75)--I was just going with the flow of traffic. Coming back there was a sandstorm and it took us about 5 hours--and the front license plate has no more paint on it.
What else? Timmie is now a green belt. He passed his test and we're so proud of him. Timmie is also playing soccer and learning the game. He's in there playing and we're proud of him for that too. Timmie was also invited to a Saudi birthday party.
Now most b-day parties in the States are held at home, Mr. Gatti's, maybe take a friend to the movie. Here they have them at the malls--because all the malls have an amusement park for the children--some lavish and some small. I dropped Timmie off--the Moms came over and fussed over him. It was a 2 hour party so I wandered around the mall. Then I got bored and went to watch Timmie and his friends. I suddenly felt jealous. I realized I was barred from the party--because only the Mama's were allowed. In the States I would have been chatting and helping out--but here I can't. It irritated me and then I realized that this must be how Western women feel. It was very interesting to me.
Finally--well not finally since we had a visitor from Utah come and visit us--and that was incredible—read above!
Ok--finally--Laurie and I celebrated 10 years of marriage!!! Yay us! Wed night I went out with a new guy to "old" Riyadh--where you can bargain, etc.. I wanted to get Laurie a pashmini (sp) shawl and some jewelry (we were poor last year for our anniv). I found some beautiful shawls and bought two--then the man gave me one for free--I protested and told him that it was much too beautiful to give me--I offered to pay--but he smiled and packed it in my bag. I really was moved by that and almost hugged him--but now I'll be buying the shawls from him.
Then I went to the gold souk and found some earrings and necklace for Laurie--nothing Saudi gaudy--simple Laurie instead. I gave my gifts to Laurie the next day and she was pleasantly surprised. Then she gave me a beautiful poem that described the past 10 years--I got really teary eyed--my voice even choked up. Laurie's gift to me was so much better than anything I bought her.
In one month I will have been in Saudi for a year. It has been an amazing adventure and still continues to be.
Now we're planning our trip back to the States. Ahhh..the South in the summer...humidity and heat...we can't wait.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Bahrain=Freedom, Naval base and The Ritz
We got back today from a weekend getaway in Bahrain. Bahrain is an island country about 4 hours from Riyadh. The two countries are connected via a bridge—a very long bridge. So here’s the story of our trip.
We left on Wed at 1700 and followed some friends to Dahran—they were staying with their friends at ARAMCO and we were staying at Jadawel East (our sister compound). We get to Dahran and go our separate ways. I knew I had to find the corniche and take a left. Lenny (more about him later) had told me to keep going left until I saw the Dahran International Expo Center. Found it—it’s after 2100 (9pm) so it’s dark and I’m a little unsure (but saying my prayers). Take a right and drive to Jadawel East.
At JE we get thru the first security gate—now for the second one. At the second one I have to stop and get out and register. We have a villa waiting—or do we. I have a letter in my hand saying we are authorized a villa. However the guys tell me” No villa.” They have no paperwork on me. Phone calls are made and we get a villa.
JE villa’s aren’t as big as ours are in Riyadh—but hey it’s free! We set our phones for 0600 because we wanted to leave for Bahrain NLT 0715. We got in bed and slept—woke up on time—packed the car again and left on time.
I have never driven to Bahrain and was there once 17 years ago—so we’re kind of doing this blind. We had a map and I had been told to just follow the signs. We followed the signs got on the bridge and started driving over the ocean—that long long bridge.
Then we come to all the check-points—Saudi first and then Bahrain. At one you pay a toll fee…the next you give your passports…then car inspection…then car information…then you buy insurance…then passports again…Laurie and I kept watching the car in from of us trying to figure out what they were handing—we did pretty good and suddenly we were in Bahrain.
Bahrain equals freedom—freedom to watch movies, not wear the abyaa, women can drive and work, you can eat pork, drink liquor, go night clubbing and you can swim in the ocean. Freedom! Oh and during prayer time you’ll hear the call very faint but nothing closes.
There were some other things I noticed—being the driver. The lanes were clearly marked and everybody stayed in their lanes. The horns were mostly silent. The signs were in English. Nobody took two parking spaces. There was no parking on the roads, double parking or triple parking. The cars looked nicer. People obeyed the traffic lights and signs. Driving was amazingly smooth. Amazingly smooth!
We get to Bahrain, find the Grand Mosque—and it is grand—and then get lost (actually we got lost twice before we found the Grand Mosque). We were looking for Ric’s Kountry Kooking—all US expats eat there and rave about it. Somehow we just kept looking and Laurie says “Tim take a right—there it is.” It was across from the Grand Mosque—across a huge sand lot (we had been told a field and were expecting grass, trees, flowers—I don’t know why—after all this is the Middle East). We go in and order. The food was good—the biscuits with sausage gravy were really good. We ate and waited for Lenny and Kay (they were going to be our tour guides—and they were awesome). So Lenny and Kay arrive and tell us that they’ll eat at the Navy base. We leave Ric’s take a right and we’re at the base!
A base! A US base with all the luxuries I’d forgotten about. In Saudi we have nowhere to use our ID card, commissary, BX, movie theater, etc.. But the Naval base in Bahrain has all that. We parked, walked through security and the angels from heaven started to sing…maybe that was prayer call..but anyway it felt like a slice of heaven.
Lenny and Kay went to eat at the food court and pointed us towards the commissary and BX. I thought we were going to go crazy in the commissary. It was just nice to see US prices and pay a reasonable fee for our chips instead of $10 like we do here. I’ve been wanting Noxema—they had it. Laurie bought some woman stuff and Timmie was excited about the S’more pop tarts. It really is the little things you miss. I even bought….hold your breath…real vanilla. You can’t find it here because it has alcohol. AND I bought nutmeg…something you have a hard time finding here because it’s considered an aphrodisiac (but isn’t chocolate one too—and there’s lot of chocolate here in the KSA). Then Timmie and I saw a sign that said an express Taco Bell coming soon. I thought Timmie was going to cry—he really misses his Taco Bell.
We pack up our delicacies and follow L and K to one of the malls. This mall had a
16plex theater…with 16 different movies…14 in English. Timmie and I saw Bolt—loved it-- and the others saw Twilight (Laurie said it was much better than her pirated copy). After the movies we went to the hotel.
We stayed at..... THE RITZ!!! Yes The Ritz. I have never felt so underdressed and so “country” in all my life. We got government rates—less than half what the regular price is. You drive up and it’s valet parking—you can’t park your own car—it’s not allowed. Someone opens your door, the passenger door and unloads your trunk AND takes your luggage to your room..you do not lift a finger. When we walked into the huge, gorgeous lobby a lady came up to register Timmie for all the children activities—and there were a lot. Laurie told her we were only there for the evening—the lady looked disappointed…but she brought us juice.
After we checked in someone took us to our room! She turned on the lights and showed us our room and told us that if we needed anything to let her know.
The room! WOW! The tub was huge. The bed was so fluffy and cozy. The pillows were perfect. The window over looked the pool (lit at night and looked so romantic) and ocean (private with lots of lounge chairs and raked constantly to look nice). It was incredible.
This Ritz is a spa Ritz—but we didn’t have time, or privacy, to enjoy all the Ritz had to offer. However, some friends at the compound have offered to watch Timmie so Laurie and I can take advantage of the Ritz (that doesn’t sound right but I know you all know what I mean).
We rested for a little while—then walked on the beach to take our pictures—Timmie played for a minute on the playground. Then we all loaded up and went to eat at Johnny Rockets (we were supposed to get one here but we heard it was cancelled).
After we ate it was back to mall for another movie. This time our family saw Bedtime Stories—loved it. L and K saw something else. By now it’s late and we’re all tired. Back to The Ritz to snuggle under that comforter, lay my head on that perfect pillow and sink into the mattress…ummmmmmm.
We woke up on Friday, checked out, the cars were brought around the front, doors opened, suitcases loaded for us and off we drove to eat at Ric’s again (the food really is good American food). After eating we loaded back into our cars for the exciting trip through immigration, customs and trying to figure out what to do at each window (I got a stern warning on the Saudi side for not waiting for them to tell me what stall to go to at the customs area..I thought that would mean our car would be searched…but it wasn’t..the guy just signed off on my paperwork…but now I know for next time to wait).
Once we got back into Saudi there was a different feel. It’s home…but there seem to be so many “constrictions.” Yet we love it here…even with the constrictions. Driving back to Riyadh we saw the usual camels, long truck lines, and of course the desert. This time the wind was really blowing so that meant a lot of sand blowing around--less visibilty but we still drove about 75 - 85mph. We got back to our villa safe and sound.
Wow—Bahrain is so close and now that we’ve driven the road, crossed the bridge, made our way through the maze and know what’s on the other side—we’re ready to go on a more regular basis. Hopefully we’ll become repeat customers of The Ritz too!
We left on Wed at 1700 and followed some friends to Dahran—they were staying with their friends at ARAMCO and we were staying at Jadawel East (our sister compound). We get to Dahran and go our separate ways. I knew I had to find the corniche and take a left. Lenny (more about him later) had told me to keep going left until I saw the Dahran International Expo Center. Found it—it’s after 2100 (9pm) so it’s dark and I’m a little unsure (but saying my prayers). Take a right and drive to Jadawel East.
At JE we get thru the first security gate—now for the second one. At the second one I have to stop and get out and register. We have a villa waiting—or do we. I have a letter in my hand saying we are authorized a villa. However the guys tell me” No villa.” They have no paperwork on me. Phone calls are made and we get a villa.
JE villa’s aren’t as big as ours are in Riyadh—but hey it’s free! We set our phones for 0600 because we wanted to leave for Bahrain NLT 0715. We got in bed and slept—woke up on time—packed the car again and left on time.
I have never driven to Bahrain and was there once 17 years ago—so we’re kind of doing this blind. We had a map and I had been told to just follow the signs. We followed the signs got on the bridge and started driving over the ocean—that long long bridge.
Then we come to all the check-points—Saudi first and then Bahrain. At one you pay a toll fee…the next you give your passports…then car inspection…then car information…then you buy insurance…then passports again…Laurie and I kept watching the car in from of us trying to figure out what they were handing—we did pretty good and suddenly we were in Bahrain.
Bahrain equals freedom—freedom to watch movies, not wear the abyaa, women can drive and work, you can eat pork, drink liquor, go night clubbing and you can swim in the ocean. Freedom! Oh and during prayer time you’ll hear the call very faint but nothing closes.
There were some other things I noticed—being the driver. The lanes were clearly marked and everybody stayed in their lanes. The horns were mostly silent. The signs were in English. Nobody took two parking spaces. There was no parking on the roads, double parking or triple parking. The cars looked nicer. People obeyed the traffic lights and signs. Driving was amazingly smooth. Amazingly smooth!
We get to Bahrain, find the Grand Mosque—and it is grand—and then get lost (actually we got lost twice before we found the Grand Mosque). We were looking for Ric’s Kountry Kooking—all US expats eat there and rave about it. Somehow we just kept looking and Laurie says “Tim take a right—there it is.” It was across from the Grand Mosque—across a huge sand lot (we had been told a field and were expecting grass, trees, flowers—I don’t know why—after all this is the Middle East). We go in and order. The food was good—the biscuits with sausage gravy were really good. We ate and waited for Lenny and Kay (they were going to be our tour guides—and they were awesome). So Lenny and Kay arrive and tell us that they’ll eat at the Navy base. We leave Ric’s take a right and we’re at the base!
A base! A US base with all the luxuries I’d forgotten about. In Saudi we have nowhere to use our ID card, commissary, BX, movie theater, etc.. But the Naval base in Bahrain has all that. We parked, walked through security and the angels from heaven started to sing…maybe that was prayer call..but anyway it felt like a slice of heaven.
Lenny and Kay went to eat at the food court and pointed us towards the commissary and BX. I thought we were going to go crazy in the commissary. It was just nice to see US prices and pay a reasonable fee for our chips instead of $10 like we do here. I’ve been wanting Noxema—they had it. Laurie bought some woman stuff and Timmie was excited about the S’more pop tarts. It really is the little things you miss. I even bought….hold your breath…real vanilla. You can’t find it here because it has alcohol. AND I bought nutmeg…something you have a hard time finding here because it’s considered an aphrodisiac (but isn’t chocolate one too—and there’s lot of chocolate here in the KSA). Then Timmie and I saw a sign that said an express Taco Bell coming soon. I thought Timmie was going to cry—he really misses his Taco Bell.
We pack up our delicacies and follow L and K to one of the malls. This mall had a
16plex theater…with 16 different movies…14 in English. Timmie and I saw Bolt—loved it-- and the others saw Twilight (Laurie said it was much better than her pirated copy). After the movies we went to the hotel.
We stayed at..... THE RITZ!!! Yes The Ritz. I have never felt so underdressed and so “country” in all my life. We got government rates—less than half what the regular price is. You drive up and it’s valet parking—you can’t park your own car—it’s not allowed. Someone opens your door, the passenger door and unloads your trunk AND takes your luggage to your room..you do not lift a finger. When we walked into the huge, gorgeous lobby a lady came up to register Timmie for all the children activities—and there were a lot. Laurie told her we were only there for the evening—the lady looked disappointed…but she brought us juice.
After we checked in someone took us to our room! She turned on the lights and showed us our room and told us that if we needed anything to let her know.
The room! WOW! The tub was huge. The bed was so fluffy and cozy. The pillows were perfect. The window over looked the pool (lit at night and looked so romantic) and ocean (private with lots of lounge chairs and raked constantly to look nice). It was incredible.
This Ritz is a spa Ritz—but we didn’t have time, or privacy, to enjoy all the Ritz had to offer. However, some friends at the compound have offered to watch Timmie so Laurie and I can take advantage of the Ritz (that doesn’t sound right but I know you all know what I mean).
We rested for a little while—then walked on the beach to take our pictures—Timmie played for a minute on the playground. Then we all loaded up and went to eat at Johnny Rockets (we were supposed to get one here but we heard it was cancelled).
After we ate it was back to mall for another movie. This time our family saw Bedtime Stories—loved it. L and K saw something else. By now it’s late and we’re all tired. Back to The Ritz to snuggle under that comforter, lay my head on that perfect pillow and sink into the mattress…ummmmmmm.
We woke up on Friday, checked out, the cars were brought around the front, doors opened, suitcases loaded for us and off we drove to eat at Ric’s again (the food really is good American food). After eating we loaded back into our cars for the exciting trip through immigration, customs and trying to figure out what to do at each window (I got a stern warning on the Saudi side for not waiting for them to tell me what stall to go to at the customs area..I thought that would mean our car would be searched…but it wasn’t..the guy just signed off on my paperwork…but now I know for next time to wait).
Once we got back into Saudi there was a different feel. It’s home…but there seem to be so many “constrictions.” Yet we love it here…even with the constrictions. Driving back to Riyadh we saw the usual camels, long truck lines, and of course the desert. This time the wind was really blowing so that meant a lot of sand blowing around--less visibilty but we still drove about 75 - 85mph. We got back to our villa safe and sound.
Wow—Bahrain is so close and now that we’ve driven the road, crossed the bridge, made our way through the maze and know what’s on the other side—we’re ready to go on a more regular basis. Hopefully we’ll become repeat customers of The Ritz too!
Friday, January 9, 2009
Prayer
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
Come to prayer! Come to prayer!
Come to success! Come to success!
God is most great. God is most great.
There is none worthy of worship except God.
Five times a day this is repeated over the loud speakers calling all Muslims to prayer. The call is both haunting and beautiful at the same time. The call comes from each of the different mosques (in our area there are at least 7 mosque and two more are being built).
Before prayer each Muslim cleans himself (I say him since I don’t know if women follow all the same “rules” as men—I’ve only been around men during this process). They will wash their face, hands and arms up to the elbow and sometimes wash their feet. This way they are clean before praying to Allah.
I’ve heard this call for 8 months and I’ve driven by mosques during prayer time—lots of cars triple parked. The call wakes us up in the early morning and it soothes us to sleep at night. Timmie and I were outside by the pool one day during the call and he asked me if we should pray. I asked him what he thought and he said he thought we should—so we went inside and said an afternoon prayer that day—it felt good to take time and speak to God out loud in the afternoon instead of a silent prayer.
Life revolves around Allah and prayer. Everything closes down during prayer—everything. Some stores will let you stay inside while others will ask you to leave. Restaurants dim their lights and don’t serve food—as of yet none have asked us to leave. We schedule our daily activities around prayer.
Prayer doesn’t have to be done at the mosque—it can be done anywhere. At TGI Friday’s we’ve seen the workers put rugs down outside in the back, face Mekkah and pray. At the mall we’ve seen women find places and kneel and pray. Laurie and I often feel like we are intruding and yet we’re intrigued at the same time.
Lately I’ve been leaving the RSAF building to go to lunch. The food they serve is..edible..but very unsatisfying to me. So I’ve been going to McDonald’s (delish, crisp Chicken Ceasear salad) and Subway—something to get me out of the building and office. I've been able to see the men enter / leave the mosque.
In the RSAF the call to prayer is over the loud speaker—there are two calls—the first call and then about 10 minutes later the next call. During the calls the men prepare themselves and then they head down to the mosque on the first floor (or zero floor over here).
As I leave the building I’m normally in the midst of the RSAF going to prayer. I’m intrigued and fascinated by it—and at times humbled. The men quickly but reverently hurry to the mosque. They speak in reverent whispers. They may hold each other by the arm. Before they enter the mosque they slip off their shoes. It feels so reverent that I walk as quietly as I can in the area.
There have been times when I leave 10 minutes after the second call. By then all the men are coming out of the mosque. They seem to have a sense of relief, guidance and clam. As I’m walking through them to get to the door I’ll see some that I know and they give me a smile and speak quietly to me. There is no joking or humor (and the Saudis / Arabs love good jokes and pranks) or loud voices--all is still reverent.
I’m amazed that as a body the RSAF stops everything to pray. Even if there is a meeting it stops for prayer. Last year we had a US company over showing us a database—the RSAF ordered the database and then the company came for the design of the database. BUT every day the meetings stopped for prayer (and the RSAF is spending $$$ on this and spent $$$ to have these guys from the US fly over here and put them up in the Sheraton).
I was talking to Laurie and wondered out loud what would happen if all of us—Jews, Christian and Muslim—all stopped at the same time one day and prayed in one voice. What kind of miracles might happen? It’s an interesting thought.
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
Come to prayer! Come to prayer!
Come to success! Come to success!
God is most great. God is most great.
There is none worthy of worship except God.
Five times a day this is repeated over the loud speakers calling all Muslims to prayer. The call is both haunting and beautiful at the same time. The call comes from each of the different mosques (in our area there are at least 7 mosque and two more are being built).
Before prayer each Muslim cleans himself (I say him since I don’t know if women follow all the same “rules” as men—I’ve only been around men during this process). They will wash their face, hands and arms up to the elbow and sometimes wash their feet. This way they are clean before praying to Allah.
I’ve heard this call for 8 months and I’ve driven by mosques during prayer time—lots of cars triple parked. The call wakes us up in the early morning and it soothes us to sleep at night. Timmie and I were outside by the pool one day during the call and he asked me if we should pray. I asked him what he thought and he said he thought we should—so we went inside and said an afternoon prayer that day—it felt good to take time and speak to God out loud in the afternoon instead of a silent prayer.
Life revolves around Allah and prayer. Everything closes down during prayer—everything. Some stores will let you stay inside while others will ask you to leave. Restaurants dim their lights and don’t serve food—as of yet none have asked us to leave. We schedule our daily activities around prayer.
Prayer doesn’t have to be done at the mosque—it can be done anywhere. At TGI Friday’s we’ve seen the workers put rugs down outside in the back, face Mekkah and pray. At the mall we’ve seen women find places and kneel and pray. Laurie and I often feel like we are intruding and yet we’re intrigued at the same time.
Lately I’ve been leaving the RSAF building to go to lunch. The food they serve is..edible..but very unsatisfying to me. So I’ve been going to McDonald’s (delish, crisp Chicken Ceasear salad) and Subway—something to get me out of the building and office. I've been able to see the men enter / leave the mosque.
In the RSAF the call to prayer is over the loud speaker—there are two calls—the first call and then about 10 minutes later the next call. During the calls the men prepare themselves and then they head down to the mosque on the first floor (or zero floor over here).
As I leave the building I’m normally in the midst of the RSAF going to prayer. I’m intrigued and fascinated by it—and at times humbled. The men quickly but reverently hurry to the mosque. They speak in reverent whispers. They may hold each other by the arm. Before they enter the mosque they slip off their shoes. It feels so reverent that I walk as quietly as I can in the area.
There have been times when I leave 10 minutes after the second call. By then all the men are coming out of the mosque. They seem to have a sense of relief, guidance and clam. As I’m walking through them to get to the door I’ll see some that I know and they give me a smile and speak quietly to me. There is no joking or humor (and the Saudis / Arabs love good jokes and pranks) or loud voices--all is still reverent.
I’m amazed that as a body the RSAF stops everything to pray. Even if there is a meeting it stops for prayer. Last year we had a US company over showing us a database—the RSAF ordered the database and then the company came for the design of the database. BUT every day the meetings stopped for prayer (and the RSAF is spending $$$ on this and spent $$$ to have these guys from the US fly over here and put them up in the Sheraton).
I was talking to Laurie and wondered out loud what would happen if all of us—Jews, Christian and Muslim—all stopped at the same time one day and prayed in one voice. What kind of miracles might happen? It’s an interesting thought.
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
No Abbya!
On New Year’s Day Laurie, Timmie and I woke up at 0400—yes that’s 4am. We were leaving for Khobar, a coastal city, for three reasons—1—buy Laurie her “dream” sewing machine, 2) go to some craft store and 3) go to an Arabian store that caters to Westerners (meaning everything costs $$). There were three cars caravanning—we were following since I wasn’t 100% sure on how to get to Khobar. We left Riyadh at 0515—(yawn) for an adventure.
We arrived in Khobar—with no stops—at 0900ish—a nice long, sometimes boring, 4 hour drive. Desert all the way—though we did see camels and they really are beautiful when they’re walking. They seem to glide along the desert—like ships in the ocean.
Khobar! A coastal town that is somewhat more “liberated” than “conservative” Riyadh. It just seemed more laid back—like most beach towns. Laurie and I rolled down the windows to smell the salt air and we were not disappointed—the air smelled so good. Khobar has a large Western community thanks to ARAMCO—the oil company that has been in the Kingdom since the 1930’s or 40’s. ARAMCO still has a lot of influence in that part of Saudi. We even saw the first gusher. Most signs were in English—including numbers (in Riyadh most signs are in Arabic—especially numbers).
We parked at the craft store. It was big. The bathrooms were nice and clean—Timmie always has to check out the bathrooms. There was lots of stuff..stuff..stuff. I have to admit the store did have a really good selection of crafts and materials—if you’re into that. Timmie and I got bored—especially when we remembered there was food and water in the car.
We left the cars parked and went to the sewing machine place—up 4 blocks take a left and then three blocks or something like that. Walking to the store through the traffic, the people, the variety of stores—that was an adventure. We found the store. Wow—nice (it must cater to Westerners too since the guys all spoke great English and they knew a lot about sewing machines). But it was more than sewing machines. There were fancy watches, binoculars, knifes, etc…..Laurie was thrilled. I got bored and walked around outside. When I came back Laurie was buying the machine. Now all of us drivers walked back to the cars—but not the same way we walked to the store—walking back seemed to take longer. We drove to the store and the machine was loaded into our car—off we all went. We only have about 45 minutes and it’s prayer time.
The last reason we were there was to visit Desert Designs—a very very nice Arab store. I was wowed from the minute we walked in. Furniture, tablecloths (they even have the Iranian one that we have), rugs, art and knick knacks. If you want Arab this is the store. I fell in love with a piece of furniture—then looked at the price—still in love but now from a distance. The women were going gaga—and when we come back to the States we’ll be bringing gifts from Desert Designs. Laurie wasn’t feeling well so we went to the car—relaxing smelling that ocean air.
Ok we did it—we made it to all three places before closing / prayer time. Everybody is happy. Now we go to the corniche. We walk around, take pictures and end up eating at McDonald’s. Timmie and I look over at the bridge to Bahrain (the bridge to freedom—movies, alcohol, pork and hookers –I’ve heard Russian and Thai—hey you need options according to Laurie). Laurie starts feeling better now that she’s got some solid food in her stomach. We load up and drive home to Riyadh. We get back at 5pm—it’s been a long 12 hour day. Timmie did not complain at all—you know I am always amazed at how much he can take—he rises to the occasion when he has to.
So back to my title—No Abbya. In the craft store we saw a woman—Western—no abbya. Not even carrying one. No head covering. Nothing. She was wearing a long sleeved shirt and pants—dressed very nice. BUT the amazing thing—none of the men or women in the store seemed to care! And then I saw her walking down the street. Awesome. As we were leaving town we were at a stop light. Laurie and I both noticed a tall, stunning looking (and she looked Arab) woman. But what was really stunning to us is that she wasn’t wearing an abbya either! Now she did have her head scarf on and was carrying an abbya—but she wasn’t wearing it. She had on nice brown jeans, long sleeved brown shirt and high heel boots. Again, nobody seemed to care or be paying attention. I’ve heard that Khobar was more “liberated” and to me this proved it. Granted it was only two women—but hey it’s two more than I’ve seen in Riyadh.
I love being here. There really is an adventure everywhere we go.
We arrived in Khobar—with no stops—at 0900ish—a nice long, sometimes boring, 4 hour drive. Desert all the way—though we did see camels and they really are beautiful when they’re walking. They seem to glide along the desert—like ships in the ocean.
Khobar! A coastal town that is somewhat more “liberated” than “conservative” Riyadh. It just seemed more laid back—like most beach towns. Laurie and I rolled down the windows to smell the salt air and we were not disappointed—the air smelled so good. Khobar has a large Western community thanks to ARAMCO—the oil company that has been in the Kingdom since the 1930’s or 40’s. ARAMCO still has a lot of influence in that part of Saudi. We even saw the first gusher. Most signs were in English—including numbers (in Riyadh most signs are in Arabic—especially numbers).
We parked at the craft store. It was big. The bathrooms were nice and clean—Timmie always has to check out the bathrooms. There was lots of stuff..stuff..stuff. I have to admit the store did have a really good selection of crafts and materials—if you’re into that. Timmie and I got bored—especially when we remembered there was food and water in the car.
We left the cars parked and went to the sewing machine place—up 4 blocks take a left and then three blocks or something like that. Walking to the store through the traffic, the people, the variety of stores—that was an adventure. We found the store. Wow—nice (it must cater to Westerners too since the guys all spoke great English and they knew a lot about sewing machines). But it was more than sewing machines. There were fancy watches, binoculars, knifes, etc…..Laurie was thrilled. I got bored and walked around outside. When I came back Laurie was buying the machine. Now all of us drivers walked back to the cars—but not the same way we walked to the store—walking back seemed to take longer. We drove to the store and the machine was loaded into our car—off we all went. We only have about 45 minutes and it’s prayer time.
The last reason we were there was to visit Desert Designs—a very very nice Arab store. I was wowed from the minute we walked in. Furniture, tablecloths (they even have the Iranian one that we have), rugs, art and knick knacks. If you want Arab this is the store. I fell in love with a piece of furniture—then looked at the price—still in love but now from a distance. The women were going gaga—and when we come back to the States we’ll be bringing gifts from Desert Designs. Laurie wasn’t feeling well so we went to the car—relaxing smelling that ocean air.
Ok we did it—we made it to all three places before closing / prayer time. Everybody is happy. Now we go to the corniche. We walk around, take pictures and end up eating at McDonald’s. Timmie and I look over at the bridge to Bahrain (the bridge to freedom—movies, alcohol, pork and hookers –I’ve heard Russian and Thai—hey you need options according to Laurie). Laurie starts feeling better now that she’s got some solid food in her stomach. We load up and drive home to Riyadh. We get back at 5pm—it’s been a long 12 hour day. Timmie did not complain at all—you know I am always amazed at how much he can take—he rises to the occasion when he has to.
So back to my title—No Abbya. In the craft store we saw a woman—Western—no abbya. Not even carrying one. No head covering. Nothing. She was wearing a long sleeved shirt and pants—dressed very nice. BUT the amazing thing—none of the men or women in the store seemed to care! And then I saw her walking down the street. Awesome. As we were leaving town we were at a stop light. Laurie and I both noticed a tall, stunning looking (and she looked Arab) woman. But what was really stunning to us is that she wasn’t wearing an abbya either! Now she did have her head scarf on and was carrying an abbya—but she wasn’t wearing it. She had on nice brown jeans, long sleeved brown shirt and high heel boots. Again, nobody seemed to care or be paying attention. I’ve heard that Khobar was more “liberated” and to me this proved it. Granted it was only two women—but hey it’s two more than I’ve seen in Riyadh.
I love being here. There really is an adventure everywhere we go.
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