We got back today from a weekend getaway in Bahrain. Bahrain is an island country about 4 hours from Riyadh. The two countries are connected via a bridge—a very long bridge. So here’s the story of our trip.
We left on Wed at 1700 and followed some friends to Dahran—they were staying with their friends at ARAMCO and we were staying at Jadawel East (our sister compound). We get to Dahran and go our separate ways. I knew I had to find the corniche and take a left. Lenny (more about him later) had told me to keep going left until I saw the Dahran International Expo Center. Found it—it’s after 2100 (9pm) so it’s dark and I’m a little unsure (but saying my prayers). Take a right and drive to Jadawel East.
At JE we get thru the first security gate—now for the second one. At the second one I have to stop and get out and register. We have a villa waiting—or do we. I have a letter in my hand saying we are authorized a villa. However the guys tell me” No villa.” They have no paperwork on me. Phone calls are made and we get a villa.
JE villa’s aren’t as big as ours are in Riyadh—but hey it’s free! We set our phones for 0600 because we wanted to leave for Bahrain NLT 0715. We got in bed and slept—woke up on time—packed the car again and left on time.
I have never driven to Bahrain and was there once 17 years ago—so we’re kind of doing this blind. We had a map and I had been told to just follow the signs. We followed the signs got on the bridge and started driving over the ocean—that long long bridge.
Then we come to all the check-points—Saudi first and then Bahrain. At one you pay a toll fee…the next you give your passports…then car inspection…then car information…then you buy insurance…then passports again…Laurie and I kept watching the car in from of us trying to figure out what they were handing—we did pretty good and suddenly we were in Bahrain.
Bahrain equals freedom—freedom to watch movies, not wear the abyaa, women can drive and work, you can eat pork, drink liquor, go night clubbing and you can swim in the ocean. Freedom! Oh and during prayer time you’ll hear the call very faint but nothing closes.
There were some other things I noticed—being the driver. The lanes were clearly marked and everybody stayed in their lanes. The horns were mostly silent. The signs were in English. Nobody took two parking spaces. There was no parking on the roads, double parking or triple parking. The cars looked nicer. People obeyed the traffic lights and signs. Driving was amazingly smooth. Amazingly smooth!
We get to Bahrain, find the Grand Mosque—and it is grand—and then get lost (actually we got lost twice before we found the Grand Mosque). We were looking for Ric’s Kountry Kooking—all US expats eat there and rave about it. Somehow we just kept looking and Laurie says “Tim take a right—there it is.” It was across from the Grand Mosque—across a huge sand lot (we had been told a field and were expecting grass, trees, flowers—I don’t know why—after all this is the Middle East). We go in and order. The food was good—the biscuits with sausage gravy were really good. We ate and waited for Lenny and Kay (they were going to be our tour guides—and they were awesome). So Lenny and Kay arrive and tell us that they’ll eat at the Navy base. We leave Ric’s take a right and we’re at the base!
A base! A US base with all the luxuries I’d forgotten about. In Saudi we have nowhere to use our ID card, commissary, BX, movie theater, etc.. But the Naval base in Bahrain has all that. We parked, walked through security and the angels from heaven started to sing…maybe that was prayer call..but anyway it felt like a slice of heaven.
Lenny and Kay went to eat at the food court and pointed us towards the commissary and BX. I thought we were going to go crazy in the commissary. It was just nice to see US prices and pay a reasonable fee for our chips instead of $10 like we do here. I’ve been wanting Noxema—they had it. Laurie bought some woman stuff and Timmie was excited about the S’more pop tarts. It really is the little things you miss. I even bought….hold your breath…real vanilla. You can’t find it here because it has alcohol. AND I bought nutmeg…something you have a hard time finding here because it’s considered an aphrodisiac (but isn’t chocolate one too—and there’s lot of chocolate here in the KSA). Then Timmie and I saw a sign that said an express Taco Bell coming soon. I thought Timmie was going to cry—he really misses his Taco Bell.
We pack up our delicacies and follow L and K to one of the malls. This mall had a
16plex theater…with 16 different movies…14 in English. Timmie and I saw Bolt—loved it-- and the others saw Twilight (Laurie said it was much better than her pirated copy). After the movies we went to the hotel.
We stayed at..... THE RITZ!!! Yes The Ritz. I have never felt so underdressed and so “country” in all my life. We got government rates—less than half what the regular price is. You drive up and it’s valet parking—you can’t park your own car—it’s not allowed. Someone opens your door, the passenger door and unloads your trunk AND takes your luggage to your room..you do not lift a finger. When we walked into the huge, gorgeous lobby a lady came up to register Timmie for all the children activities—and there were a lot. Laurie told her we were only there for the evening—the lady looked disappointed…but she brought us juice.
After we checked in someone took us to our room! She turned on the lights and showed us our room and told us that if we needed anything to let her know.
The room! WOW! The tub was huge. The bed was so fluffy and cozy. The pillows were perfect. The window over looked the pool (lit at night and looked so romantic) and ocean (private with lots of lounge chairs and raked constantly to look nice). It was incredible.
This Ritz is a spa Ritz—but we didn’t have time, or privacy, to enjoy all the Ritz had to offer. However, some friends at the compound have offered to watch Timmie so Laurie and I can take advantage of the Ritz (that doesn’t sound right but I know you all know what I mean).
We rested for a little while—then walked on the beach to take our pictures—Timmie played for a minute on the playground. Then we all loaded up and went to eat at Johnny Rockets (we were supposed to get one here but we heard it was cancelled).
After we ate it was back to mall for another movie. This time our family saw Bedtime Stories—loved it. L and K saw something else. By now it’s late and we’re all tired. Back to The Ritz to snuggle under that comforter, lay my head on that perfect pillow and sink into the mattress…ummmmmmm.
We woke up on Friday, checked out, the cars were brought around the front, doors opened, suitcases loaded for us and off we drove to eat at Ric’s again (the food really is good American food). After eating we loaded back into our cars for the exciting trip through immigration, customs and trying to figure out what to do at each window (I got a stern warning on the Saudi side for not waiting for them to tell me what stall to go to at the customs area..I thought that would mean our car would be searched…but it wasn’t..the guy just signed off on my paperwork…but now I know for next time to wait).
Once we got back into Saudi there was a different feel. It’s home…but there seem to be so many “constrictions.” Yet we love it here…even with the constrictions. Driving back to Riyadh we saw the usual camels, long truck lines, and of course the desert. This time the wind was really blowing so that meant a lot of sand blowing around--less visibilty but we still drove about 75 - 85mph. We got back to our villa safe and sound.
Wow—Bahrain is so close and now that we’ve driven the road, crossed the bridge, made our way through the maze and know what’s on the other side—we’re ready to go on a more regular basis. Hopefully we’ll become repeat customers of The Ritz too!
Friday, January 23, 2009
Friday, January 9, 2009
Prayer
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
Come to prayer! Come to prayer!
Come to success! Come to success!
God is most great. God is most great.
There is none worthy of worship except God.
Five times a day this is repeated over the loud speakers calling all Muslims to prayer. The call is both haunting and beautiful at the same time. The call comes from each of the different mosques (in our area there are at least 7 mosque and two more are being built).
Before prayer each Muslim cleans himself (I say him since I don’t know if women follow all the same “rules” as men—I’ve only been around men during this process). They will wash their face, hands and arms up to the elbow and sometimes wash their feet. This way they are clean before praying to Allah.
I’ve heard this call for 8 months and I’ve driven by mosques during prayer time—lots of cars triple parked. The call wakes us up in the early morning and it soothes us to sleep at night. Timmie and I were outside by the pool one day during the call and he asked me if we should pray. I asked him what he thought and he said he thought we should—so we went inside and said an afternoon prayer that day—it felt good to take time and speak to God out loud in the afternoon instead of a silent prayer.
Life revolves around Allah and prayer. Everything closes down during prayer—everything. Some stores will let you stay inside while others will ask you to leave. Restaurants dim their lights and don’t serve food—as of yet none have asked us to leave. We schedule our daily activities around prayer.
Prayer doesn’t have to be done at the mosque—it can be done anywhere. At TGI Friday’s we’ve seen the workers put rugs down outside in the back, face Mekkah and pray. At the mall we’ve seen women find places and kneel and pray. Laurie and I often feel like we are intruding and yet we’re intrigued at the same time.
Lately I’ve been leaving the RSAF building to go to lunch. The food they serve is..edible..but very unsatisfying to me. So I’ve been going to McDonald’s (delish, crisp Chicken Ceasear salad) and Subway—something to get me out of the building and office. I've been able to see the men enter / leave the mosque.
In the RSAF the call to prayer is over the loud speaker—there are two calls—the first call and then about 10 minutes later the next call. During the calls the men prepare themselves and then they head down to the mosque on the first floor (or zero floor over here).
As I leave the building I’m normally in the midst of the RSAF going to prayer. I’m intrigued and fascinated by it—and at times humbled. The men quickly but reverently hurry to the mosque. They speak in reverent whispers. They may hold each other by the arm. Before they enter the mosque they slip off their shoes. It feels so reverent that I walk as quietly as I can in the area.
There have been times when I leave 10 minutes after the second call. By then all the men are coming out of the mosque. They seem to have a sense of relief, guidance and clam. As I’m walking through them to get to the door I’ll see some that I know and they give me a smile and speak quietly to me. There is no joking or humor (and the Saudis / Arabs love good jokes and pranks) or loud voices--all is still reverent.
I’m amazed that as a body the RSAF stops everything to pray. Even if there is a meeting it stops for prayer. Last year we had a US company over showing us a database—the RSAF ordered the database and then the company came for the design of the database. BUT every day the meetings stopped for prayer (and the RSAF is spending $$$ on this and spent $$$ to have these guys from the US fly over here and put them up in the Sheraton).
I was talking to Laurie and wondered out loud what would happen if all of us—Jews, Christian and Muslim—all stopped at the same time one day and prayed in one voice. What kind of miracles might happen? It’s an interesting thought.
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
I testify that Muhammad is the messenger of God.
Come to prayer! Come to prayer!
Come to success! Come to success!
God is most great. God is most great.
There is none worthy of worship except God.
Five times a day this is repeated over the loud speakers calling all Muslims to prayer. The call is both haunting and beautiful at the same time. The call comes from each of the different mosques (in our area there are at least 7 mosque and two more are being built).
Before prayer each Muslim cleans himself (I say him since I don’t know if women follow all the same “rules” as men—I’ve only been around men during this process). They will wash their face, hands and arms up to the elbow and sometimes wash their feet. This way they are clean before praying to Allah.
I’ve heard this call for 8 months and I’ve driven by mosques during prayer time—lots of cars triple parked. The call wakes us up in the early morning and it soothes us to sleep at night. Timmie and I were outside by the pool one day during the call and he asked me if we should pray. I asked him what he thought and he said he thought we should—so we went inside and said an afternoon prayer that day—it felt good to take time and speak to God out loud in the afternoon instead of a silent prayer.
Life revolves around Allah and prayer. Everything closes down during prayer—everything. Some stores will let you stay inside while others will ask you to leave. Restaurants dim their lights and don’t serve food—as of yet none have asked us to leave. We schedule our daily activities around prayer.
Prayer doesn’t have to be done at the mosque—it can be done anywhere. At TGI Friday’s we’ve seen the workers put rugs down outside in the back, face Mekkah and pray. At the mall we’ve seen women find places and kneel and pray. Laurie and I often feel like we are intruding and yet we’re intrigued at the same time.
Lately I’ve been leaving the RSAF building to go to lunch. The food they serve is..edible..but very unsatisfying to me. So I’ve been going to McDonald’s (delish, crisp Chicken Ceasear salad) and Subway—something to get me out of the building and office. I've been able to see the men enter / leave the mosque.
In the RSAF the call to prayer is over the loud speaker—there are two calls—the first call and then about 10 minutes later the next call. During the calls the men prepare themselves and then they head down to the mosque on the first floor (or zero floor over here).
As I leave the building I’m normally in the midst of the RSAF going to prayer. I’m intrigued and fascinated by it—and at times humbled. The men quickly but reverently hurry to the mosque. They speak in reverent whispers. They may hold each other by the arm. Before they enter the mosque they slip off their shoes. It feels so reverent that I walk as quietly as I can in the area.
There have been times when I leave 10 minutes after the second call. By then all the men are coming out of the mosque. They seem to have a sense of relief, guidance and clam. As I’m walking through them to get to the door I’ll see some that I know and they give me a smile and speak quietly to me. There is no joking or humor (and the Saudis / Arabs love good jokes and pranks) or loud voices--all is still reverent.
I’m amazed that as a body the RSAF stops everything to pray. Even if there is a meeting it stops for prayer. Last year we had a US company over showing us a database—the RSAF ordered the database and then the company came for the design of the database. BUT every day the meetings stopped for prayer (and the RSAF is spending $$$ on this and spent $$$ to have these guys from the US fly over here and put them up in the Sheraton).
I was talking to Laurie and wondered out loud what would happen if all of us—Jews, Christian and Muslim—all stopped at the same time one day and prayed in one voice. What kind of miracles might happen? It’s an interesting thought.
God is most great. God is most great.
God is most great. God is most great.
I testify that there is no God except God.
I testify that there is no God except God.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
No Abbya!
On New Year’s Day Laurie, Timmie and I woke up at 0400—yes that’s 4am. We were leaving for Khobar, a coastal city, for three reasons—1—buy Laurie her “dream” sewing machine, 2) go to some craft store and 3) go to an Arabian store that caters to Westerners (meaning everything costs $$). There were three cars caravanning—we were following since I wasn’t 100% sure on how to get to Khobar. We left Riyadh at 0515—(yawn) for an adventure.
We arrived in Khobar—with no stops—at 0900ish—a nice long, sometimes boring, 4 hour drive. Desert all the way—though we did see camels and they really are beautiful when they’re walking. They seem to glide along the desert—like ships in the ocean.
Khobar! A coastal town that is somewhat more “liberated” than “conservative” Riyadh. It just seemed more laid back—like most beach towns. Laurie and I rolled down the windows to smell the salt air and we were not disappointed—the air smelled so good. Khobar has a large Western community thanks to ARAMCO—the oil company that has been in the Kingdom since the 1930’s or 40’s. ARAMCO still has a lot of influence in that part of Saudi. We even saw the first gusher. Most signs were in English—including numbers (in Riyadh most signs are in Arabic—especially numbers).
We parked at the craft store. It was big. The bathrooms were nice and clean—Timmie always has to check out the bathrooms. There was lots of stuff..stuff..stuff. I have to admit the store did have a really good selection of crafts and materials—if you’re into that. Timmie and I got bored—especially when we remembered there was food and water in the car.
We left the cars parked and went to the sewing machine place—up 4 blocks take a left and then three blocks or something like that. Walking to the store through the traffic, the people, the variety of stores—that was an adventure. We found the store. Wow—nice (it must cater to Westerners too since the guys all spoke great English and they knew a lot about sewing machines). But it was more than sewing machines. There were fancy watches, binoculars, knifes, etc…..Laurie was thrilled. I got bored and walked around outside. When I came back Laurie was buying the machine. Now all of us drivers walked back to the cars—but not the same way we walked to the store—walking back seemed to take longer. We drove to the store and the machine was loaded into our car—off we all went. We only have about 45 minutes and it’s prayer time.
The last reason we were there was to visit Desert Designs—a very very nice Arab store. I was wowed from the minute we walked in. Furniture, tablecloths (they even have the Iranian one that we have), rugs, art and knick knacks. If you want Arab this is the store. I fell in love with a piece of furniture—then looked at the price—still in love but now from a distance. The women were going gaga—and when we come back to the States we’ll be bringing gifts from Desert Designs. Laurie wasn’t feeling well so we went to the car—relaxing smelling that ocean air.
Ok we did it—we made it to all three places before closing / prayer time. Everybody is happy. Now we go to the corniche. We walk around, take pictures and end up eating at McDonald’s. Timmie and I look over at the bridge to Bahrain (the bridge to freedom—movies, alcohol, pork and hookers –I’ve heard Russian and Thai—hey you need options according to Laurie). Laurie starts feeling better now that she’s got some solid food in her stomach. We load up and drive home to Riyadh. We get back at 5pm—it’s been a long 12 hour day. Timmie did not complain at all—you know I am always amazed at how much he can take—he rises to the occasion when he has to.
So back to my title—No Abbya. In the craft store we saw a woman—Western—no abbya. Not even carrying one. No head covering. Nothing. She was wearing a long sleeved shirt and pants—dressed very nice. BUT the amazing thing—none of the men or women in the store seemed to care! And then I saw her walking down the street. Awesome. As we were leaving town we were at a stop light. Laurie and I both noticed a tall, stunning looking (and she looked Arab) woman. But what was really stunning to us is that she wasn’t wearing an abbya either! Now she did have her head scarf on and was carrying an abbya—but she wasn’t wearing it. She had on nice brown jeans, long sleeved brown shirt and high heel boots. Again, nobody seemed to care or be paying attention. I’ve heard that Khobar was more “liberated” and to me this proved it. Granted it was only two women—but hey it’s two more than I’ve seen in Riyadh.
I love being here. There really is an adventure everywhere we go.
We arrived in Khobar—with no stops—at 0900ish—a nice long, sometimes boring, 4 hour drive. Desert all the way—though we did see camels and they really are beautiful when they’re walking. They seem to glide along the desert—like ships in the ocean.
Khobar! A coastal town that is somewhat more “liberated” than “conservative” Riyadh. It just seemed more laid back—like most beach towns. Laurie and I rolled down the windows to smell the salt air and we were not disappointed—the air smelled so good. Khobar has a large Western community thanks to ARAMCO—the oil company that has been in the Kingdom since the 1930’s or 40’s. ARAMCO still has a lot of influence in that part of Saudi. We even saw the first gusher. Most signs were in English—including numbers (in Riyadh most signs are in Arabic—especially numbers).
We parked at the craft store. It was big. The bathrooms were nice and clean—Timmie always has to check out the bathrooms. There was lots of stuff..stuff..stuff. I have to admit the store did have a really good selection of crafts and materials—if you’re into that. Timmie and I got bored—especially when we remembered there was food and water in the car.
We left the cars parked and went to the sewing machine place—up 4 blocks take a left and then three blocks or something like that. Walking to the store through the traffic, the people, the variety of stores—that was an adventure. We found the store. Wow—nice (it must cater to Westerners too since the guys all spoke great English and they knew a lot about sewing machines). But it was more than sewing machines. There were fancy watches, binoculars, knifes, etc…..Laurie was thrilled. I got bored and walked around outside. When I came back Laurie was buying the machine. Now all of us drivers walked back to the cars—but not the same way we walked to the store—walking back seemed to take longer. We drove to the store and the machine was loaded into our car—off we all went. We only have about 45 minutes and it’s prayer time.
The last reason we were there was to visit Desert Designs—a very very nice Arab store. I was wowed from the minute we walked in. Furniture, tablecloths (they even have the Iranian one that we have), rugs, art and knick knacks. If you want Arab this is the store. I fell in love with a piece of furniture—then looked at the price—still in love but now from a distance. The women were going gaga—and when we come back to the States we’ll be bringing gifts from Desert Designs. Laurie wasn’t feeling well so we went to the car—relaxing smelling that ocean air.
Ok we did it—we made it to all three places before closing / prayer time. Everybody is happy. Now we go to the corniche. We walk around, take pictures and end up eating at McDonald’s. Timmie and I look over at the bridge to Bahrain (the bridge to freedom—movies, alcohol, pork and hookers –I’ve heard Russian and Thai—hey you need options according to Laurie). Laurie starts feeling better now that she’s got some solid food in her stomach. We load up and drive home to Riyadh. We get back at 5pm—it’s been a long 12 hour day. Timmie did not complain at all—you know I am always amazed at how much he can take—he rises to the occasion when he has to.
So back to my title—No Abbya. In the craft store we saw a woman—Western—no abbya. Not even carrying one. No head covering. Nothing. She was wearing a long sleeved shirt and pants—dressed very nice. BUT the amazing thing—none of the men or women in the store seemed to care! And then I saw her walking down the street. Awesome. As we were leaving town we were at a stop light. Laurie and I both noticed a tall, stunning looking (and she looked Arab) woman. But what was really stunning to us is that she wasn’t wearing an abbya either! Now she did have her head scarf on and was carrying an abbya—but she wasn’t wearing it. She had on nice brown jeans, long sleeved brown shirt and high heel boots. Again, nobody seemed to care or be paying attention. I’ve heard that Khobar was more “liberated” and to me this proved it. Granted it was only two women—but hey it’s two more than I’ve seen in Riyadh.
I love being here. There really is an adventure everywhere we go.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Merry Christmas!
Christmas—the most magical time of the year! I love Christmas—the lights, music, people getting together. Timmie really loves Christmas. I’ve never seen a child love a holiday so much. Timmie loves everything about Christmas—from the real reason we celebrate to telling Santa what he wants. So when we were deciding to move to Saudi Arabia Timmie’s main concern was whether we would be able to celebrate Christmas. We did.
We had a great Christmas. More relaxed than in previous years. We had all the Christmas trimmings—decorated tree, presents, music, the Christmas story being read, Santa, and getting together with new friends.
We bought an artificial white tree that came lit. It looks so good in our living room. The white lights make the whole room glow with warmth. I put the tree up right in front of one of the windows and you can see the tree from down the street. On Christmas Eve the tree finally had all the presents—except Santa’s—under the tree. It was nice to just look at it.
The week before Christmas Santa came to the compound to visit all the children. What I love about Timmie is he always asks Santa for just one gift—just one. And he never asks for anything outrageous. Timmie was so excited to see Santa. This year Santa had an English accent. The Santa house was decorated and you really thought you might be at the North Pole—trees, “snow”, presents for all the children, hay for the reindeers. He asked Timmie what he wanted. Timmie asked for a PSP and that was it. On Christmas morning there was a PSP under the tree for Timmie—Santa came through (though one helper may have grumbled a little).
Christmas morning we invited some people over for breakfast—beef bacon, scrambled eggs, homemade waffles (with strawberries, Nutella and whip cream) and apple juice. As we cooked and talked the Christmas spirit was in the air. After breakfast we went to Clock Tower.
We hear people talk about CT—but always tell them we’ve never been. I thought it was a mall—but it’s really old Riyadh! Rashed took me to CT months ago and I loved it. Now Laurie has been and she loves it. The best thing is now we know how to get there. All the alleyways with the carpets, furniture, and jewelry. The men hawking their wares. The hustle and bustle. The bargaining for a “good deal—only for you.” It’s awesome. This is the real Middle East. We were the only Westerners there. We were there early so not many Saudi’s either. I found the carpet place that I bought my first carpet at. I haggled over some jewelry for Laurie—but told them I was only looking (wedding anniv in March--10 years). Laurie bought some cool “Saudi” things that every expat house has. The other women seemed so excited to show Laurie all their favorite stores—it was just incredible.
Christmas evening we went to the Diplomatic Quarter—the DQ—for a party with another couple we know. It’s always an adventure finding the DQ—we’ve been twice but neither time the same way. The couple work for the State Department—their next assignment is Cuba. We had a fun time playing games, chatting and snacking. It was a good way to wind down Christmas Day.
Friday evening we went to another compound—Arizona (now we have compound envy—our villa is much bigger but the Arizona compound is really really nice). Again we ate, talked, drank hot chocolate (from Switzerland—they had just come back from vacationing in Switzerland) and had a good time. Each family got a Swiss chocolate bar.
All in all this was a great Christmas. So yes, we celebrated Christmas in Saudi. The malls weren’t filled with Christmas music, there wasn’t a Santa in every mall, and there weren’t Christmas lights on all the palm trees. BUT on the compound and in our villa and the other villas we visited the Christmas Spirit was alive and well.
I hope each of you had a Merry Christmas and I hope that each are blessed with a Happy and Prosperous New Year!
We had a great Christmas. More relaxed than in previous years. We had all the Christmas trimmings—decorated tree, presents, music, the Christmas story being read, Santa, and getting together with new friends.
We bought an artificial white tree that came lit. It looks so good in our living room. The white lights make the whole room glow with warmth. I put the tree up right in front of one of the windows and you can see the tree from down the street. On Christmas Eve the tree finally had all the presents—except Santa’s—under the tree. It was nice to just look at it.
The week before Christmas Santa came to the compound to visit all the children. What I love about Timmie is he always asks Santa for just one gift—just one. And he never asks for anything outrageous. Timmie was so excited to see Santa. This year Santa had an English accent. The Santa house was decorated and you really thought you might be at the North Pole—trees, “snow”, presents for all the children, hay for the reindeers. He asked Timmie what he wanted. Timmie asked for a PSP and that was it. On Christmas morning there was a PSP under the tree for Timmie—Santa came through (though one helper may have grumbled a little).
Christmas morning we invited some people over for breakfast—beef bacon, scrambled eggs, homemade waffles (with strawberries, Nutella and whip cream) and apple juice. As we cooked and talked the Christmas spirit was in the air. After breakfast we went to Clock Tower.
We hear people talk about CT—but always tell them we’ve never been. I thought it was a mall—but it’s really old Riyadh! Rashed took me to CT months ago and I loved it. Now Laurie has been and she loves it. The best thing is now we know how to get there. All the alleyways with the carpets, furniture, and jewelry. The men hawking their wares. The hustle and bustle. The bargaining for a “good deal—only for you.” It’s awesome. This is the real Middle East. We were the only Westerners there. We were there early so not many Saudi’s either. I found the carpet place that I bought my first carpet at. I haggled over some jewelry for Laurie—but told them I was only looking (wedding anniv in March--10 years). Laurie bought some cool “Saudi” things that every expat house has. The other women seemed so excited to show Laurie all their favorite stores—it was just incredible.
Christmas evening we went to the Diplomatic Quarter—the DQ—for a party with another couple we know. It’s always an adventure finding the DQ—we’ve been twice but neither time the same way. The couple work for the State Department—their next assignment is Cuba. We had a fun time playing games, chatting and snacking. It was a good way to wind down Christmas Day.
Friday evening we went to another compound—Arizona (now we have compound envy—our villa is much bigger but the Arizona compound is really really nice). Again we ate, talked, drank hot chocolate (from Switzerland—they had just come back from vacationing in Switzerland) and had a good time. Each family got a Swiss chocolate bar.
All in all this was a great Christmas. So yes, we celebrated Christmas in Saudi. The malls weren’t filled with Christmas music, there wasn’t a Santa in every mall, and there weren’t Christmas lights on all the palm trees. BUT on the compound and in our villa and the other villas we visited the Christmas Spirit was alive and well.
I hope each of you had a Merry Christmas and I hope that each are blessed with a Happy and Prosperous New Year!
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Paris in December!
I don't what Paris is like in Spring but in December it's magical. Christmas is the air. Lights are everywhere. And the people in Paris--beautiful--men and women (I felt so out of place). It was amazing to be in Paris for a week.
The Hotel la Bourdannis--was awesome. So charming, quaint, nice and comfortable. Breakfast is from 7 - 11--allowing us to sleep in, get up, get ready and take our time. The croissants--chocolate, apple, and regular--were all so good. The hot chocolate was delish. There were cereals, juice, other bread, jams, butter and cheese. We could not get enough of the chocolate croissants.
The bathroom was so big--double sinks! Hot water all the time. Clean, fresh towels--mmmmm.
The beds were comfortable--maybe that's why we slept in every morning. We never felt rushed to do something.
The hotel is in a neighborhood with a grocery store next to it, flower shops everywhere, and delish--yes delish--bakeries and restaurants around both corners.
You cannot go wrong staying at the Bourdannais.
Museums--loved them (even though I felt art overload after visiting the Louvre). So much art--and lots of it naked (hahaha--that was funny watching Timmie hide his eyes or better when he made comments about what he was looking at). We went to three museums and loved them--Louvre, D'oorsay and the Branly (Timmie really enjoyed the Branly the best--I liked the D'oorsay the best and Laurie liked the Louvre). There is so much art to see I think you could live forever in Paris and still not see it all.
The Metro--loved it! I'm a people watcher and the Metro is the place for that. We saw so many people--happy, tired, old, young, black, white, Arab and mixtures. It's incredible. I think a good writer could sit in the Metro for a week and have a novel.
One day we were sitting and waiting and a young black boy sat beside Timmie--the boy seemed so happy--dressed so nice. His Mother looked so tired and I wondered what she did for a living. She wasn't dressed as nice as her son--yet I'm sure she did everything to make sure he was getting the best education.
One day we were walking and there was an older woman being held up but two sympathetic policemen--she was sobbing and they seemed to be trying to help her through whatever she had just found out. I wanted to follow them and find out why she was sobbing--it was heart wrenching.
Distinguished older men and women dressed nicely reading papers, doing crosswords--just so elegant and chic.
Handsome young men that seemed no matter what they wore they would be look fashionable, cool and "Paris." Tall, slender and there was something about them.
Gorgeous tall young women seemed to be everywhere in the Metro. Kissing their boyfriends, talking on their mobiles, smiling, not smiling, wearing the latest fashion. Always looking so sexy, cool, warm, kind and aloof--all at the same time.
The food--loved it. Ok now I know most of you might be disappointed--we didn't eat any French food--I know I know. The first night we went to this Chinese restaurant and had sweet and sour pork--it was sooooo soooo good. Timmie even tried something new and liked it--didn't eat it all but made the attempt.
The next night we met up with Mark and Traci and Timmie wanted to eat at this cute pizza place. Wow! The pizza was so good and so were the pasta dishes. The restaurant was just so European--it was awesome.
We liked both restaurants so much that we ate 3 times each at them both. One night I did have the roasted duck--heaven. Laurie said she needed to get her pork consumption in since we can't get pork here in the Kingdom.
Each day for lunch--McDonald's. I know I know! But eating there with all those beautiful and handsome Parisians--priceless.
The desserts--there's a reason dessert has two S's--you want more--and we did. The chocolate melts in your mouth. The desserts are works of art that you feel guilty about eating--and then you feel guilty because you want more. The desserts the French create with chocolate--amazing. We ate as much as we could--sometimes more than we should have. I have never seen so much chocolate—and so many chocolate stores—ever.
The city--amazing! Every section of the city is different--from posh to gritty (we never went really gritty--Timmie might have found that as exciting as the art--haha--but we were in one area and there was a Sex shop--Timmie pointed it out to me).
The city is alive and on the go constantly. I don't think it ever shuts down. It has such an energy about it--makes you want to stay awake and go go go.
We stayed in a nice part of town--not super posh but definitely not gritty. We loved our neighborhood with all the restaurants, antique stores, flower shops--there was even a school on our block.
The buildings are incredible. Everywhere all these old beautiful buildings. The carvings, details, etc..are ..are...are...indescribable. I could have walked around Paris all week just looking at buildings, wandering down the little avenues, etc..
The weather--cold! But I loved that. The desert Kingdom is still warm--today it's in the low 70's. It felt good to wear a sweater, coat, scarf and gloves--all bundled up and warm. It felt good to come out of a museum and have all the cold hit you at once or to open up the French doors in our hotel room and walk out on our balcony late at night--freezing and watching the cars, the Eiffel Tower or see what was happening in the apartments across from us.
The people--loved them. They were all so beautiful. They all have this way about them--a confidence, swagger and yet not overly so. They wore their clothes with no thought of fashion--because they are fashion. I loved seeing the women wear their long fur coats with no cares. The men with the way they wore their scarves (we found out the Paris way on our next to last day).
They smoke, talk, laugh, walk--all at the same time. They seem passionate about life. You feel that passion and get caught up in it. I wanted so much to be able to understand what they were saying. I loved being around the people.
I don't know what else to day. I loved it. I want to go back again and again and again. I told Laurie that I want us to buy a house and live in Paris. Laurie sweetly smiled back and said "Tim, we don't have enough time to buy houses in all the places you want to live." And then she chuckled. I know--I'm a nomad--but Paris--wow!
On the way to the airport we met this wonderful Southern lady from Mississippi. She was such a Sothern lady. Her daughter had married a man from Paris. Grandma was visiting her grandchildren. She told us that she really loves Paris and loves visiting her grandbabies. I loved talking to this woman. I loved meeting other Americans that are visiting foreign countries. It sounds corny but we’re all ambassadors or our country—for good or bad (hopefully for good).
One night at the pizza place there was a young American couple--chatting and discussing what they were going to order. As we were leaving I asked if they were American--they smiled--Yes. I told them we were too and we were having a great time. They were in Paris for their honeymoon. Ahhh--love. They looked so happy--so in love. I hope they always remember Paris.
Paris was a great vacation. We loved it. It's sad that it's over already--and yet it was time for it to end. We were all happy to be home in our desert Kingdom. But Paris in December--awesome!
The Hotel la Bourdannis--was awesome. So charming, quaint, nice and comfortable. Breakfast is from 7 - 11--allowing us to sleep in, get up, get ready and take our time. The croissants--chocolate, apple, and regular--were all so good. The hot chocolate was delish. There were cereals, juice, other bread, jams, butter and cheese. We could not get enough of the chocolate croissants.
The bathroom was so big--double sinks! Hot water all the time. Clean, fresh towels--mmmmm.
The beds were comfortable--maybe that's why we slept in every morning. We never felt rushed to do something.
The hotel is in a neighborhood with a grocery store next to it, flower shops everywhere, and delish--yes delish--bakeries and restaurants around both corners.
You cannot go wrong staying at the Bourdannais.
Museums--loved them (even though I felt art overload after visiting the Louvre). So much art--and lots of it naked (hahaha--that was funny watching Timmie hide his eyes or better when he made comments about what he was looking at). We went to three museums and loved them--Louvre, D'oorsay and the Branly (Timmie really enjoyed the Branly the best--I liked the D'oorsay the best and Laurie liked the Louvre). There is so much art to see I think you could live forever in Paris and still not see it all.
The Metro--loved it! I'm a people watcher and the Metro is the place for that. We saw so many people--happy, tired, old, young, black, white, Arab and mixtures. It's incredible. I think a good writer could sit in the Metro for a week and have a novel.
One day we were sitting and waiting and a young black boy sat beside Timmie--the boy seemed so happy--dressed so nice. His Mother looked so tired and I wondered what she did for a living. She wasn't dressed as nice as her son--yet I'm sure she did everything to make sure he was getting the best education.
One day we were walking and there was an older woman being held up but two sympathetic policemen--she was sobbing and they seemed to be trying to help her through whatever she had just found out. I wanted to follow them and find out why she was sobbing--it was heart wrenching.
Distinguished older men and women dressed nicely reading papers, doing crosswords--just so elegant and chic.
Handsome young men that seemed no matter what they wore they would be look fashionable, cool and "Paris." Tall, slender and there was something about them.
Gorgeous tall young women seemed to be everywhere in the Metro. Kissing their boyfriends, talking on their mobiles, smiling, not smiling, wearing the latest fashion. Always looking so sexy, cool, warm, kind and aloof--all at the same time.
The food--loved it. Ok now I know most of you might be disappointed--we didn't eat any French food--I know I know. The first night we went to this Chinese restaurant and had sweet and sour pork--it was sooooo soooo good. Timmie even tried something new and liked it--didn't eat it all but made the attempt.
The next night we met up with Mark and Traci and Timmie wanted to eat at this cute pizza place. Wow! The pizza was so good and so were the pasta dishes. The restaurant was just so European--it was awesome.
We liked both restaurants so much that we ate 3 times each at them both. One night I did have the roasted duck--heaven. Laurie said she needed to get her pork consumption in since we can't get pork here in the Kingdom.
Each day for lunch--McDonald's. I know I know! But eating there with all those beautiful and handsome Parisians--priceless.
The desserts--there's a reason dessert has two S's--you want more--and we did. The chocolate melts in your mouth. The desserts are works of art that you feel guilty about eating--and then you feel guilty because you want more. The desserts the French create with chocolate--amazing. We ate as much as we could--sometimes more than we should have. I have never seen so much chocolate—and so many chocolate stores—ever.
The city--amazing! Every section of the city is different--from posh to gritty (we never went really gritty--Timmie might have found that as exciting as the art--haha--but we were in one area and there was a Sex shop--Timmie pointed it out to me).
The city is alive and on the go constantly. I don't think it ever shuts down. It has such an energy about it--makes you want to stay awake and go go go.
We stayed in a nice part of town--not super posh but definitely not gritty. We loved our neighborhood with all the restaurants, antique stores, flower shops--there was even a school on our block.
The buildings are incredible. Everywhere all these old beautiful buildings. The carvings, details, etc..are ..are...are...indescribable. I could have walked around Paris all week just looking at buildings, wandering down the little avenues, etc..
The weather--cold! But I loved that. The desert Kingdom is still warm--today it's in the low 70's. It felt good to wear a sweater, coat, scarf and gloves--all bundled up and warm. It felt good to come out of a museum and have all the cold hit you at once or to open up the French doors in our hotel room and walk out on our balcony late at night--freezing and watching the cars, the Eiffel Tower or see what was happening in the apartments across from us.
The people--loved them. They were all so beautiful. They all have this way about them--a confidence, swagger and yet not overly so. They wore their clothes with no thought of fashion--because they are fashion. I loved seeing the women wear their long fur coats with no cares. The men with the way they wore their scarves (we found out the Paris way on our next to last day).
They smoke, talk, laugh, walk--all at the same time. They seem passionate about life. You feel that passion and get caught up in it. I wanted so much to be able to understand what they were saying. I loved being around the people.
I don't know what else to day. I loved it. I want to go back again and again and again. I told Laurie that I want us to buy a house and live in Paris. Laurie sweetly smiled back and said "Tim, we don't have enough time to buy houses in all the places you want to live." And then she chuckled. I know--I'm a nomad--but Paris--wow!
On the way to the airport we met this wonderful Southern lady from Mississippi. She was such a Sothern lady. Her daughter had married a man from Paris. Grandma was visiting her grandchildren. She told us that she really loves Paris and loves visiting her grandbabies. I loved talking to this woman. I loved meeting other Americans that are visiting foreign countries. It sounds corny but we’re all ambassadors or our country—for good or bad (hopefully for good).
One night at the pizza place there was a young American couple--chatting and discussing what they were going to order. As we were leaving I asked if they were American--they smiled--Yes. I told them we were too and we were having a great time. They were in Paris for their honeymoon. Ahhh--love. They looked so happy--so in love. I hope they always remember Paris.
Paris was a great vacation. We loved it. It's sad that it's over already--and yet it was time for it to end. We were all happy to be home in our desert Kingdom. But Paris in December--awesome!
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Thanksgiving
Is it really going to be Thanksgiving in two days? I’m not ready for it. Laurie has invited an eclectic group of people—I’m curious to see how it will all turn out. It has been an adventure trying to provide a “traditional” Thanksgiving dinner. But, do you always have to follow “tradition?”
I found frozen deep dish frozen pie shells! I love using the Marie Calendar ones—but I haven’t found those here. The ones I found look as nice and they were deep dish—I had to have deep dish. Timmie loves pumpkin pie—not just at Thanksgiving but any time of the year. So it’s 1045 at night and I’m baking two pumpkin pies for Thanksgiving—one with chocolate chips on the bottom (try it—the pumpkin with chocolate—delish!).
We have a Butterball turkey thawing in the fridge. We found it at Tamimi’s--$5 a pound. Laurie’s afraid that it’s not big enough—so I need to go buy a roast (it’ll probably be lamb).
Lucky for us we also found some stuffing mix. The store also had chicken broth so now I can make the famous stuffing—I’m not sure that it’s really famous—saying that it’s famous makes me good.
At Tamimi’s we found the softest rolls—they are so good. I’m buying fresh green beans tomorrow and some fizzy grape juice. I’m also getting potatoes—the ones from Lebanon—and making mashed potatoes. I’m hoping that Tamimi’s will have a pecan pie—if not I’ll live—but I do like some pecan pie on Thanksgiving.
We can’t find all the ingredients at one store—we have to go to at least two and sometimes three—I’m not sure why. Oh well, going from store to store is adventure—the traffic, prayer time, etc.. It’ll all be worth it though.
Thanksgiving Day is going to be stressful. Timmie has his final basketball game, then we have to rush home to put the turkey in, I really really need a haircut and Mr. Ali is only on the compound Thursday and Friday (I cannot go to Paris with this hair—I need to be groomed). Then the dinner and then bed.
The next day—Friday—is Family Fun day at school—but for Laurie it isn’t going to be much fun—she has to count the money and help make sure things are running smoothly. I'm not sure what I'm doing that day--taking Timmie around and having "fun."
Did I mention that I have to teach Seminary tomorrow—Wed—from 6 – 730 pm and then I’m going out to eat Indian food with my friend Dave (he’s going back to New Zealand—his salary is taxed at 39%--so it isn’t worth it for him to stay here unless…..but that’s a whole different story--he leaves soon). I’ve invited our General and other officers to come and eat with us—we won’t eat until around 830 or 9ish. But the holidays always seem to come with their own adventures--stress--whatever you call it.
I wish all of you—everybody reading this—a Happy Thanksgiving—whether you celebrate the holiday or not. I’m sure all of us can find something that we’re thankful for. I’m thankful for a great family—Laurie and Timmie, for a great job, for being in a place where we constantly have adventures and for all I’ve been blessed with.
Eat some turkey, have some pie, pass the rolls—Happy Thanksgiving!
I found frozen deep dish frozen pie shells! I love using the Marie Calendar ones—but I haven’t found those here. The ones I found look as nice and they were deep dish—I had to have deep dish. Timmie loves pumpkin pie—not just at Thanksgiving but any time of the year. So it’s 1045 at night and I’m baking two pumpkin pies for Thanksgiving—one with chocolate chips on the bottom (try it—the pumpkin with chocolate—delish!).
We have a Butterball turkey thawing in the fridge. We found it at Tamimi’s--$5 a pound. Laurie’s afraid that it’s not big enough—so I need to go buy a roast (it’ll probably be lamb).
Lucky for us we also found some stuffing mix. The store also had chicken broth so now I can make the famous stuffing—I’m not sure that it’s really famous—saying that it’s famous makes me good.
At Tamimi’s we found the softest rolls—they are so good. I’m buying fresh green beans tomorrow and some fizzy grape juice. I’m also getting potatoes—the ones from Lebanon—and making mashed potatoes. I’m hoping that Tamimi’s will have a pecan pie—if not I’ll live—but I do like some pecan pie on Thanksgiving.
We can’t find all the ingredients at one store—we have to go to at least two and sometimes three—I’m not sure why. Oh well, going from store to store is adventure—the traffic, prayer time, etc.. It’ll all be worth it though.
Thanksgiving Day is going to be stressful. Timmie has his final basketball game, then we have to rush home to put the turkey in, I really really need a haircut and Mr. Ali is only on the compound Thursday and Friday (I cannot go to Paris with this hair—I need to be groomed). Then the dinner and then bed.
The next day—Friday—is Family Fun day at school—but for Laurie it isn’t going to be much fun—she has to count the money and help make sure things are running smoothly. I'm not sure what I'm doing that day--taking Timmie around and having "fun."
Did I mention that I have to teach Seminary tomorrow—Wed—from 6 – 730 pm and then I’m going out to eat Indian food with my friend Dave (he’s going back to New Zealand—his salary is taxed at 39%--so it isn’t worth it for him to stay here unless…..but that’s a whole different story--he leaves soon). I’ve invited our General and other officers to come and eat with us—we won’t eat until around 830 or 9ish. But the holidays always seem to come with their own adventures--stress--whatever you call it.
I wish all of you—everybody reading this—a Happy Thanksgiving—whether you celebrate the holiday or not. I’m sure all of us can find something that we’re thankful for. I’m thankful for a great family—Laurie and Timmie, for a great job, for being in a place where we constantly have adventures and for all I’ve been blessed with.
Eat some turkey, have some pie, pass the rolls—Happy Thanksgiving!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Typical Thurday--our Saturday
Today our day started at 0845—well really it started at 0630 when I turned on CNN and then watched Charles Gibson at 0700 and Katie Couric at 0730 (gotta hear the news). Right now it’s 1640 (440pm) and we just got home and Laurie and I might go back out again. So here’s what we did:
Left the house at 0845--
0915 arrived at Samba (a bank here)--they have a Ladies Branch were Laurie can cash her check—they didn’t open until 0930—we couldn’t wait since we had dental appts at 1030 (and I knew it would take at least 50 minutes to get there)
1000--arrived Dentist--got there sooner that I thought—Timmie had two teeth pulled, Laurie and I got our teeth cleaned (so laid back—he and his assistant were sitting on the back porch chatting and waiting for us—the best appt I’ve ever had)
1130--Basketball practice / game—this was the funniest game to watch
1310--We were back at Samba Ladies Branch thinking the branch was open until 1630—I had read the sign wrong—it closed at 1300
1312--Laurie suggested we go to Kingdom Mall—the third floor is an all women’s floor and there is a Samba branch there—maybe it would be open longer
1400--Arrived Kingdom Mall—Laurie went to the 3rd floor—the branch was closed—but she looked around a little—then came down the Debenhams to look for a sweater and coat—found a sweater and shirt but no coat (she may have to get a man coat—plenty of those and she used to wear mine)
Ate at the Mall—Laurie had Japanese and I had McDonalds (Timmie ate my fries)
1515--Went to Tamimi grocery store—it caters to the Western palate and richer Saudi’s expensive—bought a turkey ($5.00 a pound—paid $27 for a turkey--Butterball)—bought some delish chocolate croissants and other things—awesome ribeye steaks
1640—Back home
During all this we're in the same city--we never left Riyadh and we only go to part of Riyadh--traffic, lights, cars, parking, prayer--it all takes time. This is typical on the weekends—and not just us but everybody—especially if you have to grocery shop, return things (there are no dressing rooms—well we did find then in Debenhams at Kingdom Mall—but that’s the only place), etc.. AND we might go out after the 630 prayer—I love it here!
630pm--left the house again--decided to go to Riyadh Gallery
650--still in traffic--decided not to go to RG but instead to Hyatt, Jirar and Danube (they're all in the same place--mall, bookstore, grocery store)
Walked all over finding what we wanted
815--left the mall--got stuck in parking lot traffic
840--finally got out of parking lot traffic
930--arrived home
(Yawn--I'm tired)
Left the house at 0845--
0915 arrived at Samba (a bank here)--they have a Ladies Branch were Laurie can cash her check—they didn’t open until 0930—we couldn’t wait since we had dental appts at 1030 (and I knew it would take at least 50 minutes to get there)
1000--arrived Dentist--got there sooner that I thought—Timmie had two teeth pulled, Laurie and I got our teeth cleaned (so laid back—he and his assistant were sitting on the back porch chatting and waiting for us—the best appt I’ve ever had)
1130--Basketball practice / game—this was the funniest game to watch
1310--We were back at Samba Ladies Branch thinking the branch was open until 1630—I had read the sign wrong—it closed at 1300
1312--Laurie suggested we go to Kingdom Mall—the third floor is an all women’s floor and there is a Samba branch there—maybe it would be open longer
1400--Arrived Kingdom Mall—Laurie went to the 3rd floor—the branch was closed—but she looked around a little—then came down the Debenhams to look for a sweater and coat—found a sweater and shirt but no coat (she may have to get a man coat—plenty of those and she used to wear mine)
Ate at the Mall—Laurie had Japanese and I had McDonalds (Timmie ate my fries)
1515--Went to Tamimi grocery store—it caters to the Western palate and richer Saudi’s expensive—bought a turkey ($5.00 a pound—paid $27 for a turkey--Butterball)—bought some delish chocolate croissants and other things—awesome ribeye steaks
1640—Back home
During all this we're in the same city--we never left Riyadh and we only go to part of Riyadh--traffic, lights, cars, parking, prayer--it all takes time. This is typical on the weekends—and not just us but everybody—especially if you have to grocery shop, return things (there are no dressing rooms—well we did find then in Debenhams at Kingdom Mall—but that’s the only place), etc.. AND we might go out after the 630 prayer—I love it here!
630pm--left the house again--decided to go to Riyadh Gallery
650--still in traffic--decided not to go to RG but instead to Hyatt, Jirar and Danube (they're all in the same place--mall, bookstore, grocery store)
Walked all over finding what we wanted
815--left the mall--got stuck in parking lot traffic
840--finally got out of parking lot traffic
930--arrived home
(Yawn--I'm tired)
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